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  • Starbucks China Largest Rival Luckin Coffee Interested in Cosmetics

    Luckin Coffee's business scope was involved in cosmetics wholesale and cosmetics retail. This is a signal that may show the interest of Luckin Coffee in the cosmetics market. In fact, Starbucks has launched cross-border cosmetic collection with Korean makeup brands. Luckin Coffee, a new retail professional coffee operator in mainland China, established Luckin Enterprise Development (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. with a registered capital of 10 million yuan(nearly $1.5 million). Its business scope includes cosmetics wholesale and cosmetics retail. Shareholder information shows that the company is wholly-owned by Luckin Coffee (China) Co., Ltd. However, this is not the first time that Luckin Coffee has shown interest in cosmetics-related businesses. As early as January this year, Luckin Coffee (China) Co., Ltd. had a business change, adding cosmetics retail, personal hygiene products sales and daily necessities sales to its general business items. This signal shows the interest of Luckin Coffee in the cosmetics market. In fact, it is not uncommon for tea brands to cross over to beauty. In Halloween in 2020, Starbucks and Korean makeup brand VIDIVICI launched a cross-border co-branded makeup collection, with black cats and pumpkin shapes as packaging elements and Starbucks logo elements printed inside. In 2021, Starbucks teamed up with local Korean makeup brand Stonebrick to launch a limited makeup single product --Lipstick (cherry blossom pink and coral bean paste) and eyeshadow (gray dumpling) are only available as "giveaways" for the Spring Coffee collection. Previously, the trendy cultural entertainment brand PopMart subsidiary also underwent industrial and commercial changes, the company's business scope added publications retail, cosmetics retail, clothing and apparel retail, shoes and hats retail, etc. This is not the first time that PopMart has made moves in the beauty sector. In 2021, PopMart announced the establishment of Anhui PopMart Trading Co., which was involved in cosmetic retail. In terms of co-branding, at the beginning of last year, PopMart joined hands with Little Ondine to launch the New Year's co-branded gift box. In March, the co-branded series "Innisfree Orange Light" was launched in collaboration with Korean cosmetic brand Innisfree. In May, it cooperated with the trendy girl makeup brand Judydoll to launch the Biqi Elf Flight series of makeup products. In addition, there is no shortage of L'Oreal, YSL and other well-known beauty brands and PopMart co-branded launch customized product gift boxes. Not only that, in 2021, Chinese tea beverage brands such as A Little, NAYUKI, Cha Yan Yue Se and others have changed the company's business scope, adding cosmetics retail business. Among them, Cha Yan Yue Se has even established 17 new companies involved in the cosmetics business in the time of three months. In addition to tea brands, luxury brand Valentino launched 2021 high-fashion beauty brand Valentino Beauty, the first series that includes full-line products foundation, lipstick, eye makeup, perfume and others. The brand also quickly laid out the Chinese market after its launch by launching its Tmall flagship store in July, opening a Chinese flagship store in September and landing in Sanya International Duty Free City in November. Luxury brand Hermès, which launched its lipstick products last year, is also bringing its lip makeup line to the mainland Chinese market in July 2021. Meanwhile, Hermès' second makeup collection "Rose Hermès", launched in April, also includes a shade "Rose Poivré" designed for Asian consumers. This year, Hermès launched Rose Hermès new series, including lipstick, blush and other products. At present, a series of new products have been released in mainland China Hermès stores, selected sales stores and online official channels. According to data from the National Bureau of Statistics, the total annual retail sales of cosmetics in China in 2021 was RMB 402.6 billion(about $60.39 billion), up 14.0% year-on-year, the largest increase in the past nine years. At the same time, compared with the United States, Japan, South Korea and other developed countries, China's cosmetics industry per capita consumption is low and relevant data show that in 2020, China's cosmetics industry per capita consumption is only 54 yuan($8.1), while the United States is 275.1 yuan($41.3), Japan is 280.8 yuan(about $42.1), South Korea is 243 yuan(about $36.45). This shows that China's cosmetics industry has huge growth potential and is a sunrise industry. Therefore, other industry brands are naturally optimistic about this sector.

  • Perfect Diary's Parent Company Gets Riches in Its Skincare

    Chinese makeup brand Perfect Diary's parent company YSG unveiled its results for Q1 in 2022, its net loss decreased 8.7% to $43.7 million from $47.8 million in the same period last year. YSG stated that its net revenue of skincare brands grew 68.5% in the first quarter, offsetting the impact of declining sales of some color cosmetics brands. On May 24, YSG reported its results for the first quarter that ended March 31. For the first quarter, YSG's total net revenue declined 38.3% to $134 million. Its net loss decreased 8.7% to $43.7 million from $47.8 million in the same period last year. For the 38.3% decline in total revenue, YSG explained that the net revenue of color cosmetics (including Perfect Diary, Little Ondine and Pink Bear) decreased by 45.6% due to weak industry-wide demand for color cosmetics and the recovery of the COVID-19 in major cities, which affected sales in offline stores. However, YSG also said that the net revenue of skincare brands grew 68.5% in the first quarter, offsetting the impact of declining sales of some color cosmetics brands. The total net revenue of YSG's skincare brands including Abby's Choice, DR.WU (mainland China business), Galénic and Eve Lom increased 68.5% to $27.4 million in the first quarter of 2022 from $16.2 million in the same period last year. According to the results report, the total net revenue of skincare brands increased 68.5% to $27.4 million in the first quarter from $16.2 million in the same period last year and increased to 20.5% of total net revenue from 7.5% last year. As mentioned in YSG's 2021 earnings report, the skincare segment's annual revenue increased 361.7% year-over-year, and its contribution to total revenue expanded from 4.0% to 21.3%. This is also a side reflection that the multi-brand strategy that YSG continues to promote has paid off. As the second growth of YSG, the skin care section has performed well. Several of its skincare brands achieved higher growth than the overall market - Galenic Q1 omnichannel sales increased by over 6000% year-on-year. EVE LOM China business Q1 omnichannel sales increased by 145% year-on-year. DR.WU Q1 sales increased by over 120% year-on-year. Steady growth to become the company's profit contributor is now a successful case of the company's brands achieving sustainable development. In addition, in terms of R&D expenses, R&D expenses in Q1 were $5.4 million, up 29.24% year-over-year, and increased to 4.0% of total net revenue from 1.9% in the same period last year, ahead of the R&D expenses of some Chinese peers in absolute terms and as a percentage, and even ahead of the R&D percentage of some international peers in the same period. The increase is mainly due to the increase in personnel costs, raw materials, equipment and equity incentive expenses. In YSG's 2021 financial report, the company's full-year R&D investment increased 113.6% year-over-year to more than $21.3 million. As mentioned in the financial report, as of the release of the 2021 financial results, YSG owned 118 patents worldwide, including 39 invention patents (some of which are in the process of being transferred). In the 2021 earnings report, YSG said that benefiting from the rapid growth of the skincare category and continued improvement in brand power, the company's full-year gross margin increased 2.5 percentage points year-over-year to 66.8% and net loss narrowed 42.5% year-over-year. Under the repeated impact of the pandemic and the weak consumer demand for beauty products, YSG became one of the few beauty companies in the industry to achieve sustained revenue growth. And in this 2022 first-quarter earnings report, YSG made an analysis of the current state of the industry, saying: Given the weak industry-wide demand for color cosmetics and the continued negative impact of the COVID-19 on its offline experience stores, online order fulfillment capabilities and supply chain, it expected total net revenue for the second quarter to be between $121.2 million and $144 million, down approximately 37% to 47% year-over-year. Previously, YSG released the beauty industry's first Environmental, Social and Government report (hereinafter referred to as ESG report). Since its establishment in 2016, YSG has been committed to fulfilling its commitments to consumers, employees and society, and has integrated ESG concepts into its corporate decisions, continuously improving its ESG management in the process of promoting green development and practicing social responsibility. As the first ESG report released in China's beauty new consumer industry, the report showcases YSG's achievements and contributions in key areas such as product responsibility, social welfare, employee care and environmental sustainability. As the importance of ESG has become widely popular in the past decade, the good performance of ESG can reflect a company's comprehensive management capability and future long-term sustainability level. Standing at the new starting point of its new five-year strategy, YSG has made its ESG report public for the first time, demonstrating its commitment and confidence in creating "sustainable beauty".

  • MAKE SENSE Increased GMV Yearly by 273% through "Lazy Men"

    Recently, the Chinese men's comprehensive personal care brand MAKE SENSE released the "White Paper on Men's Skin Health Care" (hereinafter referred to as "White Paper"). The white paper confirms that there are significant gender differences in male skin structure and function, and it is agreed that there are also gender differences in the occurrence and intervention paths of common skin problems. Founded in 2019, MAKE SENSE is clearly positioned as a comprehensive personal care brand for men. Realizing the common characteristics of "straight thinking", "difficulty in choosing" and "troublesome comparing" when shopping for male consumers, MAKE SENSE insisted on the full range of men's care, so that consumers can choose it in one step. Its products include facial care, body wash, hair and beard, body fragrance, make-up, etc. Everything that MAKE SENSE does is to meet the needs of male consumers who are both "lazy" and want to be exquisite. From product design to marketing promotion, it is all aimed to quickly reach accurate users and give them the simplest and most direct choice. The exquisite charm is in one step. According to a survey by Qeyes, within two years, MAKE SENSE raised a total of 6 rounds of financing, with a financing amount exceeding RMB 500 million (over $75 million). Strategic investors include Bilibili and Hupu; as well as many top global capital investments such as 5Y Capital and One Capital. The reason why it has obtained financing in succession is, of course, inseparable from its brilliant market sales performance. In December 2019, MAKE SENSE launched on Tmall, a mainstream e-commerce platform in China, and became one of the fastest growing brands in the beauty category of Tmall in just 3 months. The brand's first product, Niacinamide Facial Cleanser, has achieved double success both in sales and customers comments. In May 2020, its "Skin Special Drink Shower Gel Series" stunned the market: Mojito Fragrance Shower Gel has become the TOP1 on the Tmall Charm Shower Gel List in just one week. After that, in August, based on the new scene, the clothing Eau de Toilette was launched, with a total of 20w+ bottles sold all over China. From August 2020 to July 2021, MAKE SENSE brand flagship store achieved a total turnover of over $34 million and sales of over 2.3 million; in November 2020, its GMV exceeded $4.6469 million, reaching a sales peak in the past year. Among them, CHAILEEDO found that in July 2021, the monthly sales volume of MAKE SENSE was 380,000+; the GMV exceeded $4.1972 million; the sales volume increased by 345% year-on-year, and the GMV also increased by 273% year-on-year. In just one year, the market sales volume of MAKE SENSE has quadrupled. In terms of product packaging, the brand adopts a simple style, and its visual presentation is mainly based on rational lines and frames, giving people a more angular feel. From the perspective of per customer transaction, MAKE SENSE is relatively cost-effective. The average price of a single product in its Tmall flagship store is less than 100 yuan (about $15). Among them, suit products are more expensive, and the most expensive is the " Men Skincare Gift Box" which costs $78. In the Tmall flagship store, its top three products are facial cleanser, styling spray, and fragrance shampoo, and their monthly sales are 20,000+, 10,000+, and 5,000+ respectively. In addition, in terms of makeup needs, male users prefer to use the convenient Concealer Cream. Also in the SKU, MAKE SENSE contains more skincare series products, followed by the washing and care series. From the packaging visual point of view, MAKE SENSE commissioned the famous Chinese design studio "A Black Cover Design" to create a set of visual and product packaging image designs in line with its brand concept of " Rationality followed by a fun". The layout is divided into functional areas through thin lines. The contents of each part are neatly framed, and the product lines are distinguished by different background colors, presenting a very simple and refreshing unique style, The express box can also be directly torn and pulled without scissors, which is safer and more convenient. It also comes with a skincare manual, which comforts many men who are in a hurry to use it for the first time and makes the first user experience nice.

  • Lancome Achieved 10 Million Sales in 10 Days on Douyin

    On May 13th, BST, Lancome opened an official flagship store on Douyin e-commerce. Within ten days after that, its sales exceeded 10 million yuan (about 1.5 million US dollars). China is Lancome's largest market in the world, while the young and active new market growth represented by the Douyin platform cannot be ignored by any brand. Recently, L'Oreal Group's high-end beauty brand Lancome entered the Chinese e-commerce platform Douyin and opened the brand's official flagship store. Less than a month after the store opened, Lancome achieved an average 10-day daily sales of over 1 million yuan and a cumulative sales of over 10 million (about 1.5 million US dollars). During the just-concluded "Douyin 520 Confession Season" campaign, its turnover reached 5 million yuan (about $750,000 ). Lancome launched the brand's first live broadcast on Douyin e-commerce on the first day of its arrival. During the live broadcast, Lancome joined hands with Chinese top KOLs such as "Xianmu" and "Yizhi Nannan" to share practical knowledge on base makeup and daily makeup combinations. More than 200,000 people watched the live broadcast, and a single point of praise exceeded one million. Actually, in order to settle well in Douyin e-commerce, Lancome has also made sufficient preparations. First of all, before settling in, Lancome and the Douyin platform jointly launched some warm-up activities. The three hot topics #lancome##lancome196##lancome888# have accumulated more than 2 billion views for the brand. Fans' growth and conversions provide a solid users base. Secondly, Lancome also invited the very popular Douyin platform "Lagging Hot Boy" to cooperate in shooting a video, receiving 754,000 likes. On the second day after the release of the cooperation video, Lancome's official Douyin account released 3 content works of "Lancome's official flagship store has officially landed on Douyin", and all of them gained about 10,000 likes. Many netizens in the comment area said that "they came from the lagging hot boy". Before this, the likes of Lancome's account videos were all around 100. Finally, on the day of the official announcement, Lancome joined hands with many top KOLs in China to officially announce "Lancome joins Douyin", forming a communication channel of warm-up-user fan growth-voice explosion. For Lancome, Douyin e-commerce is not only a new platform for performance growth, but also a carrier of content and an output of the brand image. In the emerging interest of e-commerce, brands can accurately reach consumers through content operations; consumers can quickly find their favorite products through search. China's e-commerce industry has a leading position in the global market, and interest in e-commerce is a new concept derived from e-commerce. The interest e-commerce platform dominated by Douyin e-commerce is an inescapable link for global big names. China's e-commerce industry is moving towards contentization, digitization, and technology. The young and active new market growth represented by the Douyin platform cannot be ignored by any brand. "E-commerce has brought us a revolutionary change. It enables us to provide cosmetics and beauty services to consumers in all corners of the world. Therefore, we have been vigorously promoting the construction of e-commerce." L'Oreal Chairman Jean-Paul Agon gave full compliments when it comes to Chinese e-commerce. He believes that the use, acceptance and professional ability of digital tools of Chinese consumers are much higher than those in other parts of the world. China is Lancome's largest market in the world. In 2021, L'Oreal Group's annual revenue reached the US $34.547 billion, the highest in 14 years, of which the revenue in China increased by 50% compared with 2019. The chairman of L'Oreal once predicted that e-commerce would account for 50% of the group's business and said he was ready for that time. "We will invest in building brand loyalty and enhancing the lifetime value of consumers."

  • New Raw Material of Cosmetics Launches Developed by Chinese Company

    The new raw material "Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm" is finished filing, which was developed by a Chinese company. As CHAILEEDO observed, the ingredients of Chinese cosmetics more rely on International ingredients companies. According to the information platform of cosmetic raw material filing of the National Medical Products Administration, the new raw material "Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm" is finished filing, and the filer is Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. According to the "technical requirements" published by Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., the raw material takes the stem of Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm as the starting material, obtains the proto-bulb or bush bud by tissue culture, and then made by the steps of collection and drying. The purpose of its use is the anti-wrinkle agent and moisturizing agent, and it can be used in all kinds of cosmetics, and there is no special indication on the scope of use. The safe use amount is ≤4%. The Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm belongs to the plant raw material, which starts with a very small amount of Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm stem segment, and the treatment process includes 70% ethanol disinfection, sterile water rinsing and other steps. It takes induction and several passages to obtain the fresh Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm raw bulb from a stable raw material source. This process is sufficient to remove potential pesticide residues, so it is considered that there is no risk of pesticide residues. In the company's publicized "technical requirements", it is stated that the raw material Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm is yellow-green in color and powder in texture, and the smell should be the inherent smell of the product. The recommended storage condition is an aluminum foil bag, sealed storage at room temperature, and the use period is 2 years. Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm is a perennial herb of the genus Dendrobium of the family Orchidaceae, which is a traditional and valuable Chinese traditional medicine in China, and was first published in Shennong Ben Cao Jing, and is known as "the first of the nine Chinese immortal herbs". Previously, the products with "Dendrobium" as the focus of research and development were mostly oral health care products, mainly focusing on the efficacy of "benefitting the stomach and nourishing the body". With the success of the filing of the new raw material 0010, it opens a new door in the application of raw materials in cosmetics. In fact, as early as 2009, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. had applied for a patent on Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm and its method of large-scale succession culture, but it did not pass the examination. In August 2021, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. filed Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata with the National Medical Products Administration. Although the only daily chemical product on Dalian Practical's official website is a handmade soap with Saussurea Involucrata, in fact, as early as 2003, Dalian Practical had started the industrialization project of Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata. In 2010, Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata was approved as a new resource food. At present, the material is still in the "monitoring period". At present, according to public information, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. was established in 2001, integrating research and development, production, sales and technical services into one of the national high-tech enterprises. Focus on the collection, development and preservation of rare and endangered medicinal plant germplasm; industrialization and marketing of scientific research results with broad prospects, creating a sustainable research and development platform for rare and endangered medicinal plant engineering and application platform, establishing a national innovative industrial base for the modernization of Chinese medicine, providing safe, healthy raw materials and products for pharmaceutical, health food, functional food, food, daily necessities, cosmetic sales and landscaping industries. It has been providing safe, healthy raw materials and products for the pharmaceutical, health food, functional food, food, cosmetic products, and gardening industries. The raw material of the Chinese cosmetic industry has always been dominated by international imports such as the well-known international raw material suppliers Symrise and DSM. According to data published by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of the People's Republic of China in 2018, the chemical industry, to which the cosmetics industry belongs, has 32% of the more than 130 key basic chemical materials in China as gaps, and 52% of the varieties depend on imports. Although the number of new raw materials on record is increasing, it should not be overlooked that after the implementation of the Regulation on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, China has set stricter regulatory requirements for the safety management of new raw materials. 4 new raw materials are clearly marked with "monitoring period" in the record information. According to the Regulation on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics stipulates that "If the filing raw materials of cosmetics don't occur any safety issues in 3 years, it can be included into the Catalog of used cosmetic ingredients developed by the National Medical Products Administration." "New Cosmetic Raw Materials Registration Record Information Management Regulations" indicated that "raw materials have been used safely outside of China for more than three years, it is not necessary to provide teratogenic tests, long-term human experimentation and other project information." From the objective factors, this provision is conducive to international raw materials has matured the application of raw materials to quickly enter the Chinese market, and to a certain extent, it intensified the fierce competition in the Chinese cosmetic ingredients market.

  • Guerlain and Angelina Jolie Disclosed Women for Bees

    In honor of World Bee Day, Guerlain has teamed up with UNESCO and Angelina Jolie to inaugurate the Cambodian phase of the Women for Bees program. As observed by CHAILEEDO, Guerlain has "good relationship" with bees for promoting products or launch digital program, all of which showed Guerlain's vision of protecting biodiversity. To mark The World Bee Day, Guerlain has partnered with UNESCO and Angelina Jolie to launch the second program of the Women for Bees. In a statement, Jolie said of the importance of beekeeping, "It's a way to provide families with a flexible, sustainable livelihood that balances forest conservation with providing services to communities." World Bee Day also serves another purpose though. And that is that the issues facing bees today are great. Modern practices such as intensive farming, land clearing, which destroy natural habitats, and changing world climates have put both wild and domestic bees at risk. The annual mortality rate of bees today is 30%. And the knock-on effects are real when you consider that three quarters of cultivated crops rely on bee pollination and 90% of wild flowers depend on the insects for their survival. For this reason, the French skincare brand created the Guerlain For Bees Conservation Programme. Under the program, the brand has launched initiatives such as Women for Bees. Spearheaded by top star Angelina Jolie, the partnership with UNESCO began last year to train female beekeepers and launch new beekeeping operations worldwide. As honeybees are an endangered species, Guerlain and its partners aim to help restore global bee populations through initiatives such as six months of training, the first round of which takes place in the south of France in 2021. In fact, Guerlain is closely linked to bees, with bee-related collections in its official Tmall flagship store including Advanced Youth Watery Oil, Abeille Royale Fortifying Lotion etc. Its products claim to add Guerlain France's selection of superior honey, royal jelly, allowing the skin to repair 9 times faster. Closely linked to the brand are the bees, and Guerlain has also created the Bee Respect digital platform, a sustainability platform that provides transparent insight into the lifecycle of products and their packaging. "We are launching Bee Respect in 2019 to help consumers better understand and appreciate the entire lifecycle of Guerlain products," said Cecile Lochard, Guerlain's Chief Sustainability Officer. "The platform looks at formula ingredients, packaging elements, suppliers, where they are manufactured or their carbon footprint and how they are recycled." To celebrate this year's World Bee Day, the brand partnered with renowned bee artist Tomáš Libertíny, who filled Guerlain's new favorite Huile-en-Eau Abeille Royale bottle with flowers. At the same time, Guerlain has pledged to donate 20 euros for every retweet of the visuals created by Tomáš Libertíny, as well as the hashtags #GuerlainForBees and #WorldBeeDay. A total of €1 million will be donated to help bees on World Bee Day from May 20 to May 22, which will be generated over three days, when 20% of sales will be donated to Guerlain's bee program. In order to fully advance the connection with bees, Guerlain is also launching the "Reaverse" (a hybrid of the real and the Metaverse). The project aims to connect NFT with biodiversity and "bring nature back into the real world". Guerlain sold 1,828 "encrypted bees" (or virtual bees) as NFTs to support the rewilding project in the Vallée de la Millière nature reserve in France. Each of the 1,828 "encrypted bees" is associated with 1,828 plots of land in the nature reserve and has the exact geographical coordinates of the corresponding area. The "encrypted bees" will be available at the end of April on Objkt.com, the NFT marketplace. Depending on their rarity (8 super rare, 20 rare, 500 quite rare and 1300 normal), the "crypto bees" will cost 70 to 890 euros. In addition, Guerlain has launched a Twitter account @guerlain_nft. In 2022, Guerlain will continue to explore new frontiers: scalp and hair care. Following the launch of the third generation of the new Abeille Royale Advanced Youth Watery Oil, Guerlain is once again launching its own new product, Guerlain Scalp & Hair Youth Oil-In-Serum, following the classic formula technology of its star product, Gold Repair Recovery Honey. It is worth noting that this is the first attempt of the Guerlain Abeille Royale series in the field of hair care, but not the first foray of Guerlain in this field. 140 years since the brand was founded in 1828 until the 1970s, Guerlain has been providing customers with hair care products. The Guerlain Scalp & Hair Youth Oil-In-Serum comes in the same sophisticated packaging as its star product, the Abeille Royale Advanced Youth Watery Oil, in a glass bottle made from partially recycled materials, with a honey tone and polygonal shape inspired by beehives. Recyclable FSC-certified paper is tightly fitted to the bottle to minimize packaging consumables. It is available on the Chinese e-commerce platform Tmall with a price of $171.

  • Florasis Sister Brand OGP Aims at 100 Billion Anti aging Market

    On May 23rd, BST, China's high-end technology anti-aging brand OGP officially announced that Chinese actress Zhang Junning was the spokesperson for its cosmetic instrument, and its smart RF instrument also started its expansion. Founded in 2016, OGP (Osmosis,Growth,Purity) is the first technology skincare brand of Yige Group, the parent company of Florasis, a typical oriental makeup brand. At present, OGP has two major product line categories. One is a beauty instrument, including a smart radio frequency instrument, skin shaping instrument, skin measuring magic mirror, etc.; the other is skin care products, including copper peptide patch mask, essence water, etc. At present, its four types of cosmetic instruments are priced at $85 - $45,000 in the official flagship store of Tmall, China's mainstream e-commerce platform; In terms of skin care products, OGP has launched a number of major retinol and peptide repair and anti-aging products, with prices ranging from $25 to $112. It is reported that the smart radio frequency instrument promoted by Zhang Junning this time is the star product of the OGP beauty instrument product line. This beauty instrument integrates three mainstream modes: RF, OEMS microcurrent, and LED red and blue light, which can meet the skin care needs of consumers for "anti-aging, firming and calming". It is worth mentioning that the efficacy of the OGP smart radio frequency instrument has been certified by the cosmetic evaluation center of China's Grade-A tertiary hospital. The clinical trial data showed that after the test volunteers used the OGP smart radio frequency instrument for 8 consecutive weeks, the facial sagging was improved by 43.9%, the crow's feet were improved by 32.14%, the nasolabial folds were improved by 25%, and various aging marks such as under-eye wrinkles and forehead wrinkles were significantly improved to varying degrees. OGP will also launch the revitalizing new essence gel to match its smart radio frequency instrument, to truly achieve a fairly better skin care effect. According to reports, OGP's instrument R&D team and skin care product R&D team are not completely independent. Instead, they work together on overall research and development and cooperate with each other in the development of R&D concepts, efficacy testing, and other development links to provide consumers with instruments as well as skin care, from the inside-out layered anti-aging program. The head of OGP brand operations said: "We are not selling beauty devices or skin care products, we are providing anti-aging solutions." The OGP Science and Technology Innovation Center is located in Xi'an and Hangzhou. The first phase of the Hangzhou Headquarters Science and Technology Innovation Center was completed and put into use in August last year. OGP's parent company Yige Group has a total area of 6,000 square meters of scientific research and innovation platforms, including the cosmetics science and innovation center, industrial design and Research Center, vision and space innovation center, etc. In September 2021, OGP and Beijing Technology and Business University established a joint laboratory for Chinese women's skin health and precision skin care. The two sides will jointly study the skin aging mechanism of Chinese women of different ages and skin types. In the same year, it cooperated with The Institute of Medicinal Plant Development, and started a research project on the development of skin anti-aging functional ingredients, focusing on characteristic plants with skin anti-aging effects, to carry out investigation and analysis of plant resources, research on purification of functional ingredients, and the application basis of functional ingredients. OGP has also reached strategic cooperation with the top well-known raw materials and technical service teams recognized by the beauty industry in the world, such as Royal DSM, Croda, Merck, Evonik, Lubrizol, Ashland, and AP, so as to give priority to obtaining the global advanced technology and raw materials. According to statistics, as of February 2022, OGP has applied for more than 100 patents, including 45 invention patents and 51 utility model patents.

  • Medical Hyaluronic Acid Product Management Category Will Be Altered in China

    Recently, National Medical Products Administration of China issued the "Announcement on the Management Category of Medical Hyaluronate Acid Products" (Draft for Comments) and revised opinions. It clarifies that when medical hyaluronate acid is used as a medical dressing, if the product cannot be absorbed by the human body and is used for non-chronic wounds, it shall be managed as a Class II medical device. Therefore, many people believe that this is the relaxation of the supervision of the Class II hyaluronate acid dressing. On May 20, BST (all times in this article are Beijing time), National Medical Products Administration of China solicited public opinions on the announcement on the management category of medical hyaluronate acid products (Draft for comments on the revised draft) (hereinafter referred to as the "draft "). The draft is a revision and supplement to the Announcement on the Management Category of Medical Hyaluronate Acid Products issued in 2009. At present, hyaluronate acid products are not only used in drugs and medical devices, but also used in cosmetics, food and other fields. Some products are used at the edge of drugs, medical devices and cosmetics. Therefore, the opinion draft adds the definition principles of management attributes of edge products and pharmaceutical machinery combination products involving hyaluronate acid and the classification principles of relevant medical device products, and defines the management attributes and management categories of relevant products. According to different intended uses (indications) and working principles, the draft defines the management attributes of medical hyaluronate acid products respectively. The combined products of drugs and instruments containing hyaluronate acid shall be determined as the combined products of drugs or medical devices according to the primary mode of action of the products; by rubbing, spraying or other similar methods, daily chemical industrial products that are applied to the skin and other human surfaces for the purpose of cleaning, protecting, modifying and beautifying should not claim medical use in accordance with cosmetics management. In addition, the draft lists in detail 11 cases of medical device management, and stipulates that its management category shall not be lower than the second category. Among them, as an injection into the dermis, it mainly improves the skin state through the moisturizing and hydrating effects of hyaluronate acid, which is managed according to the third category of medical devices. When used as a medical dressing, if the product can be partially or completely absorbed by the human body or used for chronic wounds, it shall be managed according to Class III medical devices. If the product cannot be absorbed by the human body and used for nonchronic wounds, it shall be managed according to Class II medical devices. As is known to all, in recent years, "medical beauty masks" and "medical mechanical masks" have been rampant on the Internet, confusing consumers and causing considerable harm to the Chinese cosmetics industry. For a long time, the National Medical Products Administration(NMPA) of China has been rectifying medical cold compresses, and the industry should realize that this edge behavior is not desirable. NMPA once issued an article stating that there is no medical mask product, cosmetics are cosmetics, medicines are medicines, they cannot be confused, and no edge behavior is allowed. With "hyaluronic acid" as the keyword, only 6 records are displayed in the medical devices (filing history system) within the territory of NMPA. The query with "hyaluronic acid" as the keyword in the medical devices (Registration) within the territory of NMPA shows that there are 180 records, including nearly 50 Class III of products and products such as "hyaluronic acid test kits". There are only about 30 products of Class II hyaluronic acid dressing (including repair patch). Although few products have obtained the registration certificate of Class II hyaluronic acid dressing at present, the market of hyaluronic acid dressing is relatively prosperous. A search on Tmall, China's mainstream e-commerce platform, with "hyaluronic acid dressing" as the keyword, showed a total of 1223 related goods, and the monthly sales of the top three products exceeded 10,000. It is worth noting that, due to the subtle "education" of merchants and KOLs, consumers have confused dressings with masks. Therefore, with the opening of the Class II hyaluronic acid dressing, it is also necessary for consumers to be alert to those medical beauty masks that are fishing in troubled waters in the market.

  • L'Oreal China Launches Beauty OneHealth Project

    L'Oréal China held its 2022 L'Oreal China Beauty OneHealth Project +IOP Summit on May 22. In the summit, L'Oréal announced its "OneHealth" plan, which will accelerate the deep integration of the industry chain in the Chinese market for the first time. L'Oréal China held its 2022 L'Oreal China Beauty OneHealth Project +IOP Summit in Shanghai in e-conference. At the summit, L'Oréal China officially launched the "OneHealth" plan. The plan aims to promote the deep integration of the "OneHealth" industry chain, empowering all stakeholders and embracing the health ecosystem together by focusing on three aspects: innovation-driven transformation, linking and empowering the ecology, and practicing social responsibility. To implement the plan, L'Oréal North Asia President and CEO of China, Mr. Fabrice, also listed ten initiatives at the conference. For example, by introducing world-class, food-grade production processes to support the production of natural ingredient formulations. He explained that L'Oréal China has built 100,000 GMP clean plants in two factories in Yichang and Suzhou to meet the need for better manufacturing of natural formulations in a food-grade manufacturing environment. He also stated "In the future, we hope to inject surging health vitality into the beauty industry through the new plan of 'OneHealth', and join hands with all partners in the ecosystem to promote innovation, break boundaries, lead changes and help build a healthy China and ultimately create a healthy beauty for the world." First, L'Oreal made a statement on current consumer trends in cosmetics, L'Oreal North Asia and China Consumer Insights Director Tao Jun said: consumers' increasing concern for comprehensive & detailed health, sustainability & value emotional consumption and experience has brought great changes to our industry. In both skincare and color cosmetics, we are seeing higher consumer demand for high efficacy, ingredients and high tech additions that they are looking for. Also in the hair category, we have noticed the public's focus on the scalp and the different levels of demand covering more segmentation in terms of cleansing, care and wellness, such as the scalp care-related ingredient Aminexil, which saw a 298% rise in discussions on social platforms in 2021. To help consumers make scientific choices, L'Oréal China has launched an open and transparent way to share the science and technology behind its products with consumers through a product research website and a series of communication and sharing events. It shared easy-to-understand information about products and ingredients with consumers. It is understood that L'Oreal China has made public more than 40 ingredients through its product research website, including more than 10 popular active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and salicylic acid. In this meeting, L'Oreal China also highlighted two star ingredients in the skincare field - panthenol and Aminexil. In skincare products, panthenol (also known as vitamin pro-B5) plays three main roles: moisturizing, soothing and repairing. To address the skin repair efficacy, which is of particular concern to the public, L'Oréal China R&D and Innovation Center has developed a new research tool to simulate skin laser damage on 3D reconstructed full-layer skin models. The research and testing results further show that panthenol can effectively promote skin cell proliferation and differentiation on laser-damaged skin models, contributing to skin self-healing. Li Ningzi, Senior Manager, Scientific Product Communication, L'Oréal China R&D and Innovation Center, shared the research on a popular scalp care need for Chinese consumers - anti-hair loss - and L'Oréal's star anti-hair loss ingredient, Aminexil. As an active anti-hair loss ingredient developed in-house by L'Oréal, the L'Oréal Group has published five scientific papers related to Aminexil in over 25 years of research and holds 28 related patents worldwide. These studies have proven that Aminexil is effective in inhibiting the synthesis of lysine hydroxylase to inhibit the densification of the fibronectin and collagen network, thus resisting the "land slab" of fibrosis around the hair follicle and allowing the hair follicle to take root more firmly, thus effectively and significantly preventing hair loss. In the roundtable of the Summit, various cross-sectoral guests discussed the topic of "Health for the future of beauty", including skin and hair health management and consumer science education. L'Oreal North Asia and China Chief Corporate Affairs and Public Liaison Officer Lan Zhenzhen believes that L'Oreal, as the industry leader, wants to promote more open and transparent communication in the whole industry, and hopes that the launch of L'Oreal's "OneHealth Plan" will make a good start and more and more companies will join to embrace the "OneHealth" eco-system together. We hope that the launch of L'Oreal's "OneHealth Plan" will be a good start, and that more and more companies will join us to embrace new opportunities in the "OneHealth" ecosystem. In the opinion of Kenjijoel, a scientific skincare teacher and best-selling beauty book author, the increasing popularity of "ingredient-centric" and "online consultations" proves that consumers are increasingly inclined to choose products that suit their needs. L'Oréal has always been committed to establishing more innovative and effective cooperation platforms with dermatologists to help educate consumers about science. Just like the "Exposureomics Research Fund" and "Skin and Hair Health Medical Development Public Welfare Project" supported by Vichy, we hope to actively participate in the development of China's medical health through academic research, treatment practice, and public science, and to bring L'Oreal's expertise in skin science to the public. L'Oréal's achievements and progress in dermatological science will benefit patients and consumers.

  • Cosmetic Ingredients Giant Symrise Launches Beauty Brands Accelerator

    Symrise, the world's fourth largest producer of perfume ingredients and cosmetic ingredients, launched a brand accelerator initiative called 'Beauty Activations' designed to partner with beauty brands. Moreover, multiple companies have invested in the brands accelerators in China and across the world. Their intention are developing new and innovative brands and technologies. Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients was launching a brand accelerator initiative called 'Beauty Activations' designed to partner with beauty brands in North America. The initiative will allow brands to activate their product innovation. By partnering with Symrise through the Beauty Activations platform, brands will gain access to in-depth marketing insights, custom formulations, and an award-winning portfolio of ingredients. Beauty Activations enhances the innovation pipeline of customers with brand tailored products. Symrise develops them from ideation to creation to support long-term success. It engages customers from the beginning with its speed to market approach and experience in custom concept development, market analysis and technical expertise. This has proven itself to elevate product development approaches with market ready solutions. Timothy Kenny, President of Cosmetic Ingredients North America at Symrise explains: "As one of the world's top ten most sustainable companies, we at Symrise propel beauty brands to the next level with our extensive expertise and comprehensive cosmetic ingredients portfolio. By partnering with beauty brands, we aim to support and develop their product lines with clean, conscious, modern, and sustainable solutions." Symrise has created an approach that builds on three major pillars. The first pillar, Hero Ingredients, forms the core focus by bringing forward award-winning ingredients to activate brand innovation. Together with its customers, Symrise develops the next generation of products complete with modern preservation solutions. Secondly, the Speed to Market pillar focuses on the acceleration of formulation and development of market ready solutions. Optimizing the product development cycle reduces complexity. Lastly, the third pillar relates to marketing and trend expertise. It entails in-depth category and trend intelligence to support product launches of customers. Symrise leads the market, brand and category analysis and supports the development of a custom concept that explores current trends. "These three tier-concept emphasizes our position as a recognized global leader in the personal care space. Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients possesses a unique global network of expertise. This includes formulation labs around the world, 360-degree marketing resources, consumer insights, and technical expertise to drive innovation", says Michele Robertson, Director of Product Innovation, Cosmetic Ingredients Symrise. Moreover, multiple companies have invested in brand accelerators in China and across the world. Their common intention are develop new and innovative brands and technologies. In 2021, Nivea's parent company Beiersdorf launched NX China, an accelerator program in China, to identify promising innovative brands in the Chinese market. Through incubation and investment, it tends to find like-minded startups to provide them with comprehensive support and explore win-win opportunities. The brands selected for the accelerator program will have priority access to investment or acquisition by the CVC "Oscar&Paul Ventures". Previously, Beiersdorf's accelerator program selected five beauty brands out of 250 emerging brands in Korea to enter its program. Last year, Unilever's premium beauty division formed a joint venture, GoUni, with Hangzhou GoLong Holdings Co. to jointly launch a team of up-and-coming premium beauty brands in China. Before that, Unilever also launched Unilever Excubator, an incubator for the China market. Unilever officially launched its membership operation and project cooperation last March, opening up the group's internal core resources and capabilities and linking external industry chain partners to build an eco-system that empowers the growth of original and innovative brands in China. Currently, Unilever Excubator has served 75 new consumer goods companies and 15 service provider members, and 15 in-depth innovation cooperation projects. On May 17, 2021, the CMF Lab of Yige Group (hereinafter referred to as "Yige"), the parent company of Florasis, was officially opened and put into use. Just two months ago, Yige announced its R&D strategy of "investing 1 billion yuan(about $149 million) in 5 years to focus on multiple basic research", of which this CMF lab is an important part. The first phase of the CMF Lab will include a CNC sculpting lab and a color research lab, which will focus on research and application of environmentally friendly materials, research on the relationship between female skin characteristics and color cosmetics, and exploration of Chinese color fashion trends, among other basic CMF research areas. As the first CMF lab in the industry, it will not only be the prophet of beauty industry trends, but also the executor to make the trends come to fruition.

  • Ribecs Has Been Focusing on Moisturizing for 15 Years with $900,000 Sales a Night

    On May 18th, Beijing time, the Chinese beauty brand Ribecs held the "5th Ribecs Mask Festival Kick-off Meeting", and released a number of new products that lead the fashion of face masks, and also carried out a brand upgrade - it will start the next 15 years with the brand new idea of "beauty via science and technology". Its popular product Ribecs Caviar Essence Firming&Lifting Mask broke through and reached the sales of $900,600 in single link sales in a live broadcast. At the launch meeting of this year's Mask Festival, Ribecs brought its new hit product. Brand executives and spokesperson Yang Yang came to the live broadcast room to interact and share with fans, which also pushed the popularity of the live broadcast room to a climax. On May 18th, BST (all times in this article are Beijing time), the mask festival kick-off meeting, which was broadcast live on Chinese platforms such as Ribecs' official video account and Douyin account, was watched online by more than 62,000 people. At the same time, more than 3,000 CS channel stores in China also took this live broadcast to launch the 15th-anniversary consumer feedback promotion. As the spokesperson of Ribecs facial mask, Yang Yang also shared his skincare experience at the kick-off meeting. He also taught in person on the live broadcast and showed how to use different facial masks, which attracted netizens to comment one after another. In the interactive session, Yang Yang explained the 45° lifting characteristics of Ribecs star product Caviar Essence Firming&Lifting Mask. As the star product of the brand in 2020, Ribecs caviar mask has become a phenomenal hit. Since the launch of the product, Ribecs has achieved explosive growth of caviar face masks through online and offline linkages, by strengthening marketing methods and efforts and expanding new channels. On the online platform, in order to help build the brand and promote the products, in 2020, Ribecs cooperated with famous actor Yang Yang, who has 56.67 million fans on Weibo, China's social networking platform, and fully implemented the three product promotion strategies of "all-star endorsement + all influencers recommending + all platforms promotion", and at the same time, deeply cultivated the Chinese platforms such as Xiaohongshu, Douyin, and Kwai to recommend their products, focusing on the small screen to seized large traffic. Via the phenomenal marketing promotion, Ribecs realized the brand's strong momentum and influence and successfully made itself known outside of the fixed circle. In addition, when the live broadcast is in full swing, many Chinese stars such as Jia Nailiang, Huang Zitao, Cecilia Cheung, Huang Shengyi, and Tu Lei all started recommending and selling goods on the Douoyin and Kwai platforms. According to the data of Cicada Mother, in Jia Nailiang's live broadcast at the end of February this year, the single link sales of Ribecs caviar facial mask exceeded the US $900,600. In the offline channel, Ribecs has always had reliable terminal policies and dynamic marketing schemes in the CS channel. By the end of 2021, Ribecs had nearly 12,000 CS channel franchisee customers. Since the launch of the Ibis caviar facial mask, the products have entered the CS channels of Ribecs in various parts of China, with outstanding performance. Through online and offline linkage, Ribecs not only opened up the closed loop of marketing, broadened the product sales channels, but also allowed the product to reach more consumers, and finally achieved a comprehensive breakthrough in product performance. Since its establishment in 2007, Ribecs has gone through 15 years. This year marks the 15th anniversary of its founding. In the first 10 years, the slogan "If you want to moisturize, you choose Ribecs" has resounded in the market, which is the most powerful proof that the brand has maintained a high position in the moisturizing and moisturizing market. In 2019, the brand has been comprehensively upgraded with users as the center, and put forward the brand proposition of "Purity to Beauty". Since then, based on the in-depth insight into the target users and consumer market, Ribecs has upgraded its brand again to strengthen the scientific and technological strength of deep-sea repair. In 2021, Ribecs joined hands with the Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural Resources of China to carry out the application research of seaweed repair functional components. This year, the company officially put forward the brand-new proposition of "Beauty via science and technology. Purity to Beauty", that is, using modern cutting-edge skincare technology to deconstruct deep-sea energy, select, refine, and extract mild and effective marine active ingredients.

  • L'Oreal Invests a D2C Brand Again

    On May 20, 2022, Beijing Time, L’Oreal’s corporate venture capital fund BOLD announced a minority investment in Japanese beauty startup SPARTY, Inc., which marks the first venture capital investment by L’Oréal in Japan. In fact, beauty giant group are paying more attention in Asian Market. On May 20, 2022, Beijing Time, beauty giant L’Oreal released that its corporate venture capital fund BOLD (Business Opportunities for L’Oréal Development) announced a minority investment in Japanese beauty startup SPARTY, Inc. This investment in SPARTY marks the first venture capital investment by L’Oréal in Japan. Based in Tokyo, SPARTY has successfully created a D2C business model grounded in personalized beauty, with brands such as Medulla in haircare and Hotaru in skincare. This unique business model enables consumers in Japan to enjoy both a personalized product and a personalized consumer experience. In addition to D2C product development, Spatry has built platforms that leverage personalized data and provide brand development support for companies pursuing the same ideals. It provide one-stop brand development supported by leveraging its expertise in D2C product development and personalization platforms. About this investment, Yosuke MIYAMA, Founder and CEO of SPARTY Inc. Stated that “With SPARTY’s proven track record in personalization and L’Oréal’s leadership in the worldwide beauty market, we are confident that we will be able to embark on the next chapter of our growth journey and scale our business even further, both in Japan and overseas, to the fullest potential,” In its financial report in Q1 of 2022, L’Oreal specially stated that in North Asia, L’Oréal Luxe achieved strong market-share gains, thanks to the success of premium skincare and a spectacular performance in fragrance, an emerging category in the Zone. The rebound of makeup and the breakthrough in premium haircare contributed to the performance of the Consumer Products Division. Active Cosmetics recorded strong growth underpinned by its scientific and medical roots. The Professional Products Division grew strongly, both in salons and online. It showed that Asia has great potential. It is worth noting that previously L'Oreal set up its first investment company in China - Shanghai Meicifang Investment Co., Ltd, which is backed by BOLD, the venture capital fund involved in this investment. L’Oreal said: 25 years of development in China has proven that China is not only a key growth engine for the Group, but its unique technology and innovation development and digital marketing ecosystem has also become one of the inspirational curators to lead the Group's future innovation. By bringing our open innovation investment to China, we demonstrate our commitment to the Chinese market and our determination to further enhance and empower the Chinese innovation ecosystem and accelerate open innovation and results translation in China." The establishment of this separate China investment company not only reaffirms the importance of the Chinese market in L'Oréal's global layout, but also demonstrates L'Oréal's confidence in the Chinese market. L'Oréal North Asia President and CEO of China said that China's unique technological innovation development and digital marketing ecology provide L'Oréal with inspiration for innovation, and that the L'Oréal Group attaches great importance to this project and will explore more potential startups, incubate forward-looking innovations and promote their commercial implementation. L'Oréal Group Chief Financial Officer has said that BOLD is an important part of L'Oréal Group's beauty technology transformation, dedicated to investing in technology innovation companies with high growth potential in marketing, digital, research and development, data, supply chain, packaging and other areas. In addition, L’Oreal’s corporate venture capital fund BOLD has invested 7 companies including biotech, date management and other industries. One of them is a marketer of beauty brands named Functionalab Group. It was founded in 2009 and is a leading and innovative developer and marketer of beauty brands focused on the professional aesthetic market with its Dermapure, Project Skin MD and Functionalab brands, and on the dermo-cosmetic market with its Jouviance brand. Asia, especially China, has become the limelight focused on by international beauty groups. At the beginning of this year, Japan’s Shiseido Group released its December 2021 and full-year financial results. The report shows that Shiseido's sales for 2021 were $8.5 billion, up 12.4% year-on-year, and operating profit was $373.8 million, an increase of 203% year-on-year. Significantly exceeding the performance growth plan. In fiscal 2021, Shiseido's sales in China will be $2.14 billion, up 16.5% year-on-year. It accounted for 26.6% of total sales in the global business, second only to the Japanese market at 26.7%. Meanwhile, Shiseido's growth in China was also mentioned in the earnings report: The China business was affected by some retail closures and lower consumer traffic due to unprecedented heavy rainfall in the third quarter and the outbreak of the COVID-19 variant in major metropolitan areas. However, e-commerce remained strong at 40 percent of total sales due to strategic investments, driven by well above-market sales growth from Double 11, China's largest e-commerce event. In addition, continued strategic investments in premium brands drove market share growth in the premium category, particularly for CPB and NARS. Moreover, in 2021, Shiseido China announced a strategic partnership with Boyu Capital, a leading alternative asset management company in China, to launch Ziyue Fund, the first international beauty group-specific investment fund in mainland China, in 2021. In the future, it will focus on investment opportunities in innovative brands and upstream and downstream related technology service companies in frontier markets such as beauty and health. Shiseido China CEO said, "With the establishment of Ziyue Fund, Shiseido has taken a solid step on the road of deep involvement in local cutting-edge innovation - internally, we are committed to promoting the high-quality development of China's beauty and health industry, boosting domestic demand and promoting consumer upgrading. Externally, Shiseido will leverage its advantageous position as the second global headquarters of Shiseido China to promote Chinese emerging enterprises to enter a larger international stage. This strategic initiative is not only a positive response to China's 'double cycle' development strategy, but also a new milestone for Shiseido's 40th anniversary in China, which will lay a solid foundation for accelerated development in the next 40 years."

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