New Raw Material of Cosmetics Launches Developed by Chinese Company

The new raw material "Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm" is finished filing, which was developed by a Chinese company. As CHAILEEDO observed, the ingredients of Chinese cosmetics more rely on International ingredients companies.

---

According to the information platform of cosmetic raw material filing of the National Medical Products Administration, the new raw material "Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm" is finished filing, and the filer is Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co.

According to the "technical requirements" published by Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., the raw material takes the stem of Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm as the starting material, obtains the proto-bulb or bush bud by tissue culture, and then made by the steps of collection and drying. The purpose of its use is the anti-wrinkle agent and moisturizing agent, and it can be used in all kinds of cosmetics, and there is no special indication on the scope of use. The safe use amount is ≤4%.

The Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm belongs to the plant raw material, which starts with a very small amount of Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm stem segment, and the treatment process includes 70% ethanol disinfection, sterile water rinsing and other steps. It takes induction and several passages to obtain the fresh Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm raw bulb from a stable raw material source. This process is sufficient to remove potential pesticide residues, so it is considered that there is no risk of pesticide residues.

In the company's publicized "technical requirements", it is stated that the raw material Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm is yellow-green in color and powder in texture, and the smell should be the inherent smell of the product. The recommended storage condition is an aluminum foil bag, sealed storage at room temperature, and the use period is 2 years.

Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm is a perennial herb of the genus Dendrobium of the family Orchidaceae, which is a traditional and valuable Chinese traditional medicine in China, and was first published in Shennong Ben Cao Jing, and is known as "the first of the nine Chinese immortal herbs". Previously, the products with "Dendrobium" as the focus of research and development were mostly oral health care products, mainly focusing on the efficacy of "benefitting the stomach and nourishing the body". With the success of the filing of the new raw material 0010, it opens a new door in the application of raw materials in cosmetics.

In fact, as early as 2009, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. had applied for a patent on Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm and its method of large-scale succession culture, but it did not pass the examination.

In August 2021, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. filed Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata with the National Medical Products Administration. Although the only daily chemical product on Dalian Practical's official website is a handmade soap with Saussurea Involucrata, in fact, as early as 2003, Dalian Practical had started the industrialization project of Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata. In 2010, Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata was approved as a new resource food. At present, the material is still in the "monitoring period".

At present, according to public information, Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co. was established in 2001, integrating research and development, production, sales and technical services into one of the national high-tech enterprises. Focus on the collection, development and preservation of rare and endangered medicinal plant germplasm; industrialization and marketing of scientific research results with broad prospects, creating a sustainable research and development platform for rare and endangered medicinal plant engineering and application platform, establishing a national innovative industrial base for the modernization of Chinese medicine, providing safe, healthy raw materials and products for pharmaceutical, health food, functional food, food, daily necessities, cosmetic sales and landscaping industries. It has been providing safe, healthy raw materials and products for the pharmaceutical, health food, functional food, food, cosmetic products, and gardening industries.

The raw material of the Chinese cosmetic industry has always been dominated by international imports such as the well-known international raw material suppliers Symrise and DSM. According to data published by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of the People's Republic of China in 2018, the chemical industry, to which the cosmetics industry belongs, has 32% of the more than 130 key basic chemical materials in China as gaps, and 52% of the varieties depend on imports.

Although the number of new raw materials on record is increasing, it should not be overlooked that after the implementation of the Regulation on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, China has set stricter regulatory requirements for the safety management of new raw materials. 4 new raw materials are clearly marked with "monitoring period" in the record information.

According to the Regulation on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics stipulates that "If the filing raw materials of cosmetics don't occur any safety issues in 3 years, it can be included into the Catalog of used cosmetic ingredients developed by the National Medical Products Administration."

"New Cosmetic Raw Materials Registration Record Information Management Regulations" indicated that "raw materials have been used safely outside of China for more than three years, it is not necessary to provide teratogenic tests, long-term human experimentation and other project information." From the objective factors, this provision is conducive to international raw materials has matured the application of raw materials to quickly enter the Chinese market, and to a certain extent, it intensified the fierce competition in the Chinese cosmetic ingredients market.