Yunnan Baiyao expects its first half-year net profit attributable to shareholders of listed companies to be in the range of 2.61 billion yuan ($364 million) to 3 billion yuan ($418.4 million). On July 13, Yunnan Baiyao released 2023 half-year performance preview. The preview shows that after the company's financial department's preliminary estimates, Yunnan Baiyao is expected to be attributable to listed company shareholders in the first half of the net profit between 2.61 billion yuan ($364 million) - 3 billion yuan ($418.4 million), compared with a profit of 1.5 billion yuan ($209.2 million) in the same period last year, an increase of 74% to 100%. It is expected that the first half of the net profit after deducting non-recurring gains and losses between 2.529 billion yuan ($352.7 million) - 2.909 billion yuan ($405.7 million), compared with a profit of 1.655 billion yuan ($230.8 million) in the same period last year, an increase of 53% to 76%. In addition, the forecast shows that the first half of this year's basic earnings per share of 1.46 yuan ($0.2)/ share to 1.68 yuan ($0.23) / share, the same period last year earnings per share of 1.10 yuan ($0.15) / share. According to public information, Yunnan Baiyao is a centuries-old brand renowned both at home and abroad, with the efficacy of stopping bleeding and healing wounds, reducing swelling and pain, and activating blood circulation and removing blood stasis. Yunnan Baiyao toothpaste is an oral care product developed with toothpaste as the carrier and international advanced oral care technology. According to Nielsen Retail Research, in 2022, Yunnan Baiyao Toothpaste will account for 24.4% of the market share in the toothpaste category, maintaining its position as the industry's No. 1 market share. Yunnan Baiyao reported that during the reporting period, the company actively responded to changes in the external environment, focused on advantageous products, and made every effort to deepen the plowing of the stock and expand the incremental volume, realizing growth in operating results.

Coty has raised its fiscal year 2023 performance guidance, expecting a year-on-year revenue growth of 10% to 11%. Its Prestige segment now accounts for over 60% of its revenue. Coty has revised its Q4 and full fiscal year 2023 guidance, anticipating a year-on-year revenue growth of 10% to 11% for fiscal year 2023. The company's high-end beauty business now represents more than 60% of its overall revenue. Coty achieved profitability firstly in 6 fiscal years Coty, founded by François Coty in Paris, France in 1904, is now headquartered in New York. Like other international beauty giants, Coty has grown through a series of acquisitions. Since 2010, Coty has been aggressively acquiring companies to expand its brand portfolio. In November 2010, Coty acquired beauty company Philosophy and nail care products manufacturer OPI Products from the Keiretsu Group. In January 2011, Coty purchased the Chinese domestic brand TJOY for 2.4 billion yuan ($333.19 million). In 2014, Coty acquired the Chanel-owned cosmetics brand Bourjois. In 2015, Coty made a huge investment of $12.5 billion to acquire 43 brands across three divisions of Procter & Gamble: fragrance, hair care, and cosmetics. It gave Coty the fragrance licensing rights for luxury brands such as Gucci, Hugo Boss, and Dolce & Gabbana. On the cosmetics side, Coty added brands like Cover Girl and Max Factor to its portfolio. Between 2016 and 2017, Coty also acquired the beauty and personal care business of Hypermarcas (now Hypera Pharma). In 2019, Coty purchased a majority stake in Kylie Cosmetics, owned by Kylie Jenner, for $600 million. Among a series of investment actions, the deal with Procter & Gamble (P&G) has attracted particular attention. In October 2016, Coty completed its merger with P&G's professional beauty business. At the time, Bart Becht, then chairman of Coty, stated that with this massive acquisition, we hope to double Coty's performance, achieve a revenue target of $10 billion, and become one of the world's largest beauty conglomerates. But for Coty, the acquisition of Procter & Gamble had both positive and negative aspects. After the acquired Procter & Gamble brands were consolidated into Coty's financial report in 2017, Coty's revenue reached $7.65 billion, a 75.9% increase from the previous year's $4.35 billion and a record high since the company went public. However, in 2017, Coty suffered a net loss of nearly $400 million, compared to a net income of $179 million in 2016. CHAILEEDO found that Since 2017, the net debt brought about by acquisitions and supply chain disruptions caused by a large brand portfolio has been the reasons behind Coty's declining revenue for several years in a row. From 2017 to 2021, Coty's revenue declined for four consecutive years, and the company suffered a massive loss of $3.77 billion in 2019. In 2020, the appointment of Sue Y. Nabi as CEO brought about a turning point for Coty. Nabi began her career at L'Oreal in 1993, where she became the youngest CEO in the history of L’Oréal Paris. In 2009, she joined Lancôme, leading the brand to achieve double-digit growth within three years and record-breaking sales of 320 million euros. After Sue Y. Nabi took over as CEO, she adjusted Coty's business and streamlined some of its brands, consolidating the luxury, consumer, and professional beauty divisions into two segments: the consumer beauty segment and the Prestige segment. In Coty’s fiscal year 2020 annual report, Coty stated that it owns over 75 brands, with 53 primary brands listed in the report. By the fiscal year 2022 annual report, the primary brands had been reduced to 37. Coty's CFO, Laurent Mercier, stated that the company plans to sell its stake in Wella by 2025 to further streamline its brand portfolio. After one year under Sue Y. Nabi's leadership, Coty's revenue decline slowed in the fiscal year 2021. Coty's revenue was $4.63 billion in FY21, a decrease of only 1.86% compared to 2020, the lowest decline in five years. The company's net losses also narrowed from $1 billion in 2020 to $205 million in 2021. In FY2022, Coty achieved revenue growth for the first time in five years, with revenue reaching $5.304 billion, a 14.57% increase from 2021. Moreover, Coty achieved profitability for the first time in six years, with a net income of $268 million in FY2022. Prestige segment revenue accounts for over 60% Since Sue Y. Nabi became CEO of Coty in 2020, the revenue of its Prestige segment has been growing year by year, and its proportion of Coty's overall revenue has also been increasing. In FY2020, Coty's Prestige segment achieved revenue of $2.61 billion, accounting for 55.25% of the total revenue. In FY2021, Coty's Prestige segment achieved revenue of $2.72 billion, a 4.2% increase from the 2020 financial year, accounting for 58.77% of the total revenue. In FY2022, Coty's Prestige segment achieved revenue of $3.27 billion, a 20.22% increase from FY2021, and accounting for over 60% of the total revenue, reaching 61.61%. In the first half of FY2023, Coty's Prestige segment achieved revenue of $1.82 billion, accounting for 62.5% of the total revenue. In the third quarter of the 2023 financial year, Coty achieved revenue of $1.289 billion, with the Prestige segment delivering revenue of $799.7 million, accounting for 62.05% of the total revenue. Recently, Coty raised its Q4 and FY2023 guidance. Coty has revised its expectations for like-for-like sales growth upwards, with anticipated growth of between 12% and 15% for the three months ending on June 30, and 10% to 11% for the entire fiscal year. Coty attributed the raised guidance to strong demand for high-end beauty products from consumers. For the current 2023 fiscal year, 56% of Coty's overall sales come from prestige fragrances, while consumer beauty cosmetics and body care account for 24% and 7%, respectively. Coty aims to achieve low 50% growth for prestige fragrances. Considering the excellent performance of its high-end beauty division, Coty plans to adjust its products to adapt to changes in market structure, particularly in the fragrance sector. Sue Y. Nabi, Coty’s CEO said, "Against this backdrop, we continue to grow the fragrance category and premiumize our business through our portfolio of icons and leading launches, such as Burberry Hero and Her, Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine and Gorgeous Gardenia, Boss Bottled Parfum and Chloe Atelier des Fleurs." Coty revealed in May its plans to launch a new collection of high-end fragrances called Infiniment Coty Paris in 2024. The collection is expected to be to fragrances what Coty's ultra-premium brand Orveda is to skincare. The project has been described as Coty's “most ambitious and premium fragrance project to date”. Coty CEO Sue Y. Nabi also addressed the issue of the Gucci fragrance and beauty product license. The long-term license for Gucci is set to expire in 2028, and there are rumors that Kering may want to regain control of the license. Nabi stated that any license that Coty holds will not expire within the next five years. She also emphasized the importance of balancing growth between licensed brands and owned brands. Coty has identified a significant opportunity for growth in China, which accounts for approximately 13% of global beauty sales and 4% of the company's overall sales. The Chinese market is rapidly developing into a major market for fragrances. Sales of high-end fragrances in China have increased by 66% over the past three years and are growing 1.5 times faster than China's high-end beauty segment. Regarding Coty's plan to seek a dual listing in Paris, Sue Y. Nabi stated that European investors are also interested in high-end cosmetics and fragrances, and seeking a dual listing in Paris can diversify the company's investor base and benefit its long-term development. Luxury giants compete in the beauty market In a recent report, McKinsey predicts a surge in the luxury market within the beauty industry, with the premium and ultra-premium segments expected to double by 2027, from approximately $20 billion to approximately $40 billion. For luxury giants, the beauty business has always been one of the most stable sources of growth. Especially against the backdrop of increasing global economic uncertainty, luxury beauty brands can provide sustained revenue growth for companies. In 2020, even the top luxury brand, Hermes, entered the lipstick market and launched its lipstick in the Chinese market in 2021, focusing on online sales. The official Hermes website shows that a single Hermes lipstick costs about 600 yuan ($83.30), and the two-year-old Hermes beauty business has shown strong growth. According to the 2022 financial report, the revenue of Hermes' fragrance and beauty business was 448 million euros ($493.38 million), a year-on-year increase of 15% at fixed exchange rates. Meanwhile, LVMH, the French luxury giant, has also maintained a good growth momentum in its beauty business. In 2022, LVMH's revenue from perfumes and cosmetics reached 7.722 billion euros ($8.50 billion), a year-on-year increase of 17% (organic growth of 10%). Another luxury giant, Kering, is also intensifying its entry into the beauty industry. In February of this year, Kering created its beauty division Kering Beauté, led by CEO Raffaella Cornaggia, to develop beauty businesses for brands such as Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pomellato, and Qeelin. Then on June 27th, Kering announced that its beauty division, Kering Beauté, had reached an agreement to acquire all shares of the high-end perfume brand Creed. The specific transaction amount was not disclosed, but according to the Financial Times, four insiders said the transaction was valued at 3.5 billion euros. Kering stated that Creed has built a network of 36 brand stores worldwide and has about 1,400 stores. Kering hopes to leverage its global distribution network to help tap the potential of its brands in the beauty industry. The acquisition of Creed demonstrates Kering's determination to enter the beauty industry. Prior to this, Kering had licensed the perfume and beauty businesses of Gucci and YSL to Coty and L’Oréal, respectively. Therefore, Kering, which is making a large-scale layout in the beauty industry, may consider regaining the operating rights of Gucci and YSL in the future. In April of this year, Estée Lauder completed its acquisition of Tom Ford by paying $2.25 billion. After the acquisition, Tom Ford's high-end beauty and perfume business will be operated by Estée Lauder itself, to revive its recent slump. Major beauty companies are also joining the competition for exclusive global licenses for high-end perfumes. On July 11th, perfume manufacturer Inter Parfums secured the global exclusive license for Roberto Cavalli perfumes, which was previously held by Coty. Although Coty's CEO Sue Y. Nabi has stated that none of Coty's licenses will expire within the next five years, according to its FY2022, 16 out of its 20 Prestige beauty brands are not owned by the company. Against the backdrop of increasingly fierce competition in the high-end beauty industry in recent years, the owners of these brands may consider reclaiming their operating rights. Coty's Prestige segment revenue accounts for over 60% of the company's total revenue, and the reclamation of these brand operating rights will inevitably have an impact on Coty's performance, although the company will not face such a problem in the next five years. From the perspective of these companies' recent moves, amid global economic uncertainty, high-end beauty businesses remain a market that major beauty conglomerates and luxury goods conglomerates are vying for.

Proya is expected to realize a net profit attributable to owners of the parent company of 460 million yuan ($64 million) to 490 million yuan ($68.1 million). Today (July 12), Chinese skincare brand Proya, which focuses on skincare with efficacy, released its half-year earnings forecast. The forecast shows that in the half-year of 2023 (January 1, 2023 to June 30, 2023), Proya is expected to realize a net profit attributable to owners of the parent company of 460 million yuan ($64 million) to 490 million yuan ($68.1 million), compared with the same period of the previous year, an increase of 163 million yuan ($22.7 million) to 193 million yuan ($26.8 million), or a year-on-year increase of 55% to 65%. Net profit attributable to owners of the parent company after extraordinary gains and losses are expected to be 435 million yuan ($60.5 million) to 465 million yuan ($64.7 million) in the half-year of 2023, compared with the same period of the previous year, will increase by 154 million yuan ($21.4 million) to 184 million yuan ($25.6 million), an increase of 55% to 66%. For the above growth, Proya said that the company continues to promote the guidance of the 6*N strategy ("6" represents new consumption, new marketing, new organization, new mechanism, new technology, new intelligent manufacturing; "N" represents N brands created). It adheres to further deepen the "multi-brand, multi-category, multi-channel" strategy, and continues to consolidate the "Hero product strategy". The sales momentum of its brands has been positive and steady growth has been achieved. The official website shows that Proya was founded in 2003, is the earliest brand launched under Proya Cosmetics Co. Ltd. In November 2017, the company was listed on the Shanghai Stock Exchange, which is the first share of beauty in China's A-share market. It is reported that Proya is well known to consumers for its Vitamin C for morning and Retinol for night skincare combination. At present, in the official flagship store of Proya, Proya Early C Night A set was 587 yuan ($81.6), with monthly sales of 20,000+ units. It is worth mentioning that, in the performance of Proya during the Chinese 618 Shopping Festival, Proya is ranked No. 1 in Tmall's Chinese cosmetics and No. 4 in Tmall's beauty, with its turnover on Tmall increasing by more than 80% year-on-year. It is ranked No. 1 in Douyin (Chinese version of TikTok) Chinese cosmetics and No. 6 in Douyin beauty, with turnover increasing by more than 80% year-on-year on Douyin. It is ranked No. 1 in JD’s Chinese cosmetics and No. 9 in JD beauty, with turnover on JD increasing by more than 70% year-on-year.

Recently, German specialty chemicals company Evonik acquired Novachem, a sustainable cosmetic active ingredient innovation company based in Argentina, continuing to expand its cosmetic active ingredient business. According to Research and Markets, the market size of active ingredients for cosmetics is expected to reach $5.5 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 5.9%. Cited: Active Cosmetic Ingredients Ltd Evonik, a German specialty chemicals company, has acquired Novachem, an Argentinean company specializing in sustainable cosmetic active ingredient innovations, as part of its ongoing expansion in the cosmetic active ingredient business. Evonik continues to increase its personal care business Evonik is one of the world's leading companies in the specialty chemicals field and is also one of the main providers of cosmetic active ingredients globally. Evonik's business is mainly composed of five segments, including the Specialty Additives division, the Nutrition & Care division, the Smart Materials division, the Performance Materials division, and the Technology & Infrastructure division. As an expert in skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, hair care, skin cleansing, active ingredients, alternative preservation, and product stabilization, Evonik utilizes renewable resources and sustainable methods based on four technology platforms - organics, silicones, biotechnology, and actives. Evonik offers a range of products that include natural-based emulsifiers, ceramides, glycolipids, enzymatic esters, PG-esters, esterquats, natural-based thickeners, alpha hydroxy acids, cholesterol specialties, advanced botanicals, delivery systems, peptides, amino acids, naturally derived chelating agents, as well as naturally derived and antimicrobials. In 2022, Evonik achieved a sales revenue of 18.5 billion euros and an adjusted EBITDA of 2.49 billion euros. The Nutrition & Care segment had a sales revenue of 4.237 billion euros, representing 23% of the total sales revenue of the company. The adjusted EBITDA for this segment was 677 million euros. Novachem specializes in developing biotechnological, natural, and sustainable active ingredients for skin and hair care applications. Founded in 2007, the company focuses on using science and technology to create innovative, eco-certified actives derived from live microorganisms that align with current trends in the cosmetics market. Evonik has announced that it will integrate Novachem into its Care Solutions business line within the Nutrition & Care division of the life sciences segment. By utilizing Novachem's expertise in innovation, access to biodiversity, and robust skin and hair care portfolio, Evonik aims to enhance its Systems Solutions portfolio and further advance its transformation into a leading provider of active ingredients in the Care Solutions business. “Latin America is one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. The acquisition of Novachem will enable us to bring even more innovative and sustainable solutions to our customers in the personal care market,” said Hendrik Schönfelder, regional president Central & South America Region at Evonik. Evonik said the acquisition of Novachem is a natural progression for the Care Solutions business line as it continues to evolve into the leading sustainable specialties partner for the personal care industry. Evonik has made several other acquisitions in recent years to support this transformation, including sustainable botanicals pioneer Botanica in 2021, cosmetic delivery company Infinitec Activos in 2021, biotech company innoHealth in 2020, Wilshire Technologies in 2020, and ALKION Biopharma in 2016. Cosmetics Active Ingredients Market to Reach $5.5 Billion by 2030 Active ingredients refer to components or compounds (including natural and chemical constituents) that possess a certain function. Active ingredients are utilized in skincare products to target specific skin concerns and problems such as dryness, oiliness, eczema, and signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles. Active ingredients can be found in various cosmetic products, such as cleansers, moisturizers, serums, facial masks, and sunscreens, with different formulations and effects. Common active ingredients include retinol, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, ceramides, and benzoyl peroxide. Each of these active ingredients targets different skin issues. For example, retinol, derived from vitamin A, is specifically designed to combat premature aging. Ceramides are a group of fatty acids that occur naturally in the skin and have a waxy texture. They can enhance the skin barrier by providing hydration. Salicylic acid is a widely used type of beta hydroxy acid, also known as BHA, which is applied to the skin to prevent or eliminate blemishes, breakouts, and blackheads, as well as to improve skin texture and tone. Alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used in anti-aging products that are designed to treat skin issues like fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and age spots. According to data from Research and Markets, the global market for cosmetic active ingredients is expected to reach $5.5 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 5.9%. The global market size for the cosmetic ingredients market is expected to reach $28.5 billion by 2030, with active cosmetic ingredients accounting for nearly 30% of the entire cosmetic ingredients market. China, which is the world's second-largest economy, is the active ingredient for cosmetics and is expected to achieve a market size of $648.7 million by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.2%. The major global companies focusing on the cosmetic active ingredients market include Ashland, Symrise, BASF, Clariant, Croda International, Evonik, Givaudan, Gattefossé SAS, Lonza, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by IFF, Nouryon, and Seppic SA. Cosmetic Active Ingredients Respond to Environmental Protection Commitments In recent years, the promotion of sustainable development concepts has led to increased attention in the cosmetics industry toward more environmentally friendly active ingredients. Not only are midstream brand owners focusing on this, but upstream raw material suppliers are also increasingly investing in active ingredients. In June of this year, L'Oréal's corporate venture capital fund, BOLD, made a minority investment in American biotech company Debut. This investment will help Debut expand its manufacturing platform quickly and meet the increasing demand for innovative ingredients used in cosmetics, skincare, and packaging. Debut, headquartered in San Diego, California, specializes in the entire process of discovering, formulating, conducting clinical trials, and manufacturing new ingredients and products. Their advanced cell-free biomanufacturing platform can overcome the limitations of traditional fermentation and take direct control of biological processes to produce complex natural products, including polyphenols, biopolymers, and natural colors. Joshua Britton, Ph.D., Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Debut said, “Debut’s ambition is to turn the active ingredient manufacturing process on its head, and in doing so, help industry leaders like L’Oréal maintain its innovative edge and desirability, fulfilling its responsibility to both the planet and consumers.” In addition to investing in Debut, L'Oréal also announced on June 29th a collaboration with the Bakar Lab at the University of California, Berkeley to advance the testing and development of biocosmetics. The collaboration will focus on leveraging L'Oréal's extensive expertise in microbiome science, Bakar Lab's expertise in biotechnology, and other advanced biotechnologies to develop the next generation of beauty products. In June 2022, Genomatica, a company specializing in biotechnology and sustainability, and Unilever announced the launch of a venture aimed at scaling and commercializing alternatives to cleansing ingredients derived from palm oil and fossil fuels, which are essential components in the formulation of thousands of everyday cleaning and personal care products. The venture, which has received a joint investment of $120 million and is expected to attract other strategic investors, will focus on developing a plant-based ingredient using biotechnology as an alternative to traditional cleansing ingredients derived from palm oil and fossil fuels. This innovation is particularly relevant for cleaning and personal care products that require ingredients to create lather and remove dirt. In March of this year, L'Oréal, through its venture capital fund BOLD, also participated in the investment in Genomatica aimed at creating sustainable alternatives to oil-based surfactants. Genomatica will deploy its proven biotechnology platform, using proprietary engineered microorganisms to ferment plant sugars, to produce sustainable surfactant ingredients. These new ingredients will be incorporated into a range of L'Oréal products, signifying an important step for L'Oréal towards its goal of 100% eco-designed formulations that respect aquatic ecosystem diversity, with 95% of ingredients being derived from renewable plant sources or natural minerals by 2030. In addition to brand owners, upstream raw material suppliers are also increasing their investments in active ingredients. In February of this year, Givaudan established a partnership with Israeli biotech company Synergio and acquired a minority stake in the latter, which specializes in developing natural and sustainable solutions for consumer goods using advanced plant technology. Also in February, Givaudan reached an agreement with leading synthetic biology company Amyris to acquire a portion of their cosmetic ingredients. In May of this year, DSM and Firmenich completed their merger, creating a new company that will be a leader in the global market for cosmetics raw materials, and biotechnology. Based on the actions and strategies of upstream raw material suppliers and brand owners, active cosmetic ingredients are expected to receive increasing attention and become the next trend in the beauty industry.

Kardashian's buyback is reportedly aimed at expanding SKKN's beauty line. Kim Kardashian is in talks to reacquire a minority stake in SKKN BY KIM, the beauty business she divested to beauty company Coty, according to the Wall Street Journal. Kardashian's company, called KKW Holdings, was acquired by Coty in 2020 for 20 percent of its shares for $200 million, valued at $1 billion at the time. The Wall Street Journal, citing people familiar with the matter, reported that a sale price has not yet been set and that negotiations could break down. SKKN BY KIM, which focuses on the skincare category, is said to have nine skincare products, including exfoliants, cleansers and moisturizers, ranging in price from $43 to $95. Its skincare products debuted last year. The Kardashian buyback program reportedly aims to expand SKKN's beauty line. Kardashian rose to fame with her family's TV show Keeping Up with the Kardashians and its successor The Kardashians. Then she also built a business empire. She launched her Shapeware business Skims in 2019 with $5 million in funding from venture capital firm Imaginary Ventures. Skims was valued at $3.2 billion last year. In addition to Kardashian, Coty also works with Kardashian's half-sister, Kylie Jenner. Coty acquired a controlling stake in Kylie Cosmetics, Kylie Jenner's cosmetics line launched in 2015, in 2019 for $600 million. Kardashian made her debut on the Forbes Billionaires list in 2021 and her net worth is currently estimated at $1.2 billion.

Shiseido said the partnership will be dedicated to the development and mass production of raw materials for cosmetics and cosmetic packaging, accelerating resource-cycling-based manufacturing. Today (July 11), Shiseido announced on its official website that it has invested in biotechnology company CHITOSE Group-led MATSURI project* and signed a strategic cooperation agreement, which aims to build a business model of resource recycling using algae. According to Shiseido, it invested 1 billion yen ($7.1 million) in CHITOSE Group, the company responsible for the "MATSURI" project, to establish a new sustainable industry based on algae, and signed a strategic cooperation agreement centered on research and development. The "MATSURI" project is said to be an algae-based sustainable industry project that promotes the research and development and large-scale production of a variety of algae applications, thereby promoting algae-based daily products to society as a whole. According to Shiseido, the two companies will maximize the potential of "algae" to build an environmentally friendly recycling model without depleting resources, and work together to accelerate resource-cycling-based manufacturing, in order to develop and mass-produce raw materials for cosmetic products and cosmetic packaging made of algae, as well as to develop raw materials that can be used in the food industry in the future.

It is reported that the scientific research team led by Fan Daidi broke through the scientific and technological research bottleneck of recombinant collagen and achieved success, which is known as the mother of "human-like collagen". Yesterday (July 10), "China's first recombinant collagen stock" Giant Biogene released a personnel change, executive director Ms. Fan Daidi has submitted her resignation from her position as an executive director due to work arrangements, effective from July 7, 2023 onwards. According to public information, Fan Daidi studied at the East China University of Science and Technology, Department of Bioengineering, and became China's first female doctor of biochemistry. In 1994, at the age of 28, she returned to her alma mater. With 5,000 yuan of scientific research start-up funds, she began to research and development of human collagen. In 2000, breakthroughs in recombinant collagen science have been achieved and technological research bottlenecks have been solved. They achieved success. Its technology not only greatly overcome the drawbacks of animal collagen, but also the first Chinese independently developed. With independent intellectual property rights of the recombinant collagen, Fan Daidi is known as "human-like collagen" mother. In the same year, she and her husband Yan Jianya set up Giant Biogene, which was listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange in November 2022, becoming "China's first recombinant collagen stock". According to the financial report of Giant Biogene in 2022, it realized operating revenue of 2.364 billion yuan ($328.2 million), up 52.3% year-on-year, and gross profit of 1.995 billion yuan ($277 million), up 47.3% year-on-year. Currently, with years of research and development experience in biotechnology, synthetic biology technology and industry leadership, Giant Biogene has established a diversified product pipeline, including 49 efficacy skincare products, 37 medical dressings and four skin revitalization products under the brand portfolio of Kefumei and Collgene, as well as two biomedical products, seven health food products and three formulas for special medical purposes under the health portfolio of foods. The two brands, Kefumei and Collegene, have also become Giant Biogene iconic brands. According to Giant Biogene financial report for 2022, revenue from Collgene was 618.4 million yuan ($85.8 million) in 2022, an increase of 17.6% compared to the same period in 2021. Revenue from Kefumei was 1.613 billion yuan ($223.9 million), a 79.7% jump compared to the same period in 2021.

Industry sources estimate that the business achieved turnover of about $40 million worldwide. According to the official news of Inter Parfums Inc., the company signed worldwide fragrance license for Roberto Cavalli, which was previously held by the Coty Group., which came into effect on July 6, the specific terms of the deal were not disclosed. It is reported that Roberto Cavalli was founded in 1970 in the focus of women's clothing, men's clothing, children's clothing, fashion accessories, etc. The perfume series debuted in 2002, while the launch of Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli two perfume series. At present, Roberto Cavalli perfume business is mainly concentrated in Europe, the Middle East and the United States. Industry insiders estimate that the business has a global turnover of around $40 million, a figure that Jean Madar, chairman, co-founder and CEO of Inter Parfums, did not comment on but said he was confident of doubling the business "within a reasonable period of time". Jean Madar, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Inter Parfums, Inc. noted, “We are enthusiastic about the potential of our partnership with Cavalli and its creative director, Fausto Puglisi. We will modernize and elevate the fragrance portfolio, build out a powerful global brand presence along with a robust omni-channel reach, strengthening visibility and improve shelf space. ” In terms of Roberto Cavalli's future plans, Inter Parfums, Inc. also said it plans to extend the brand's fragrance collection in 2024 and launch a new women's fragrance in 2025. Inter Parfums Inc. said its wholly-owned subsidiary, Interparfums Italia, will manage Cavalli in line with its strategy of creating an Italian brand center. Sergio Azzolari, Chief Executive Officer of Roberto Cavalli, commented, “We are looking forward to our partnership with Inter Parfums as they represent excellence in the fragrance business. Fragrances and beauty are an important pillar for the Roberto Cavalli brand to reach more of our customers within the Roberto Cavalli universe, and we can’t think of a better partner. Inter Parfums has a significant track record in supporting brands in their upward trajectories, combining global excellence and capabilities with a strong understanding of the Italian luxury business. Inter Parfums strongly believes in our brands’ potential, and we will work together to develop and grow this business combining commitment, focus and innovation.” According to public information, Inter Parfums, Inc. was founded in 1982 and owns brands such as Guess, Montblanc, Jimmy Choo, Coach, Abercrombie & Fitch, Anna Sui and Ferragamo. According to Inter Parfums, Inc.'s financial results, the company surpassed $1 billion in fiscal year 2022, a 24% jump from the previous year, and net sales rose 24% to $311.7 million in the first quarter of 2023, which provided an annual sales estimate of $1.25 billion.

It is reported that INOUI is a new brand for specialty cosmetic stores under Shiseido's previously proposed "strategy to further strengthen specialty cosmetic stores". Today (July 10), Shiseido announced on its website that it will launch INOUI, a cosmetics specialty store brand, on September 21, 2023, to provide a beauty experience that is in line with the social context and trends of the times. It is reported that INOUI is not a new brand created by Shiseido, which was founded in 1976 and was once an iconic cosmetics brand of Shiseido Group. (Credit: INOUI previous product image) Shiseido said that as a "reborn" brand, INOUI proposes a future of beauty, redefining the consumer's innate attractiveness and expressing individuality on the face with the core concept of "beauty of self". (Credit: INOUI new products) INOUI will launch 31 products, including foundation, eyebrow pencil, and concealer, priced at 600-8,000 yen (excluding tax), or approximately $4.2-$56. In addition, the brand has launched INOUI ID analysis, which combines "3D analysis of facial structure and bones x Shiseido's original facial analysis x personal color analysis" to recommend products based on understanding customers' characteristics and needs. (Credit: Shiseido website) It is worth noting that in February of this year, Shiseido's official website released an announcement to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the establishment of its chain store system, announcing that it would further strengthen its strategy of specialty cosmetics stores. INOUI is a new brand of specialty cosmetics stores launched under this strategy.

On July 8th, the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) concluded in Singapore. As one of the largest international dermatology conferences in the world, this year's event attracted participation from pharmaceutical companies, beauty giants, and renowned dermatologists from around the globe. What new cosmetic technologies were showcased at the 25th WCD? On July 8th, the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) concluded in Singapore. CHAILEEDO found that the attending pharmaceutical companies included Pfizer, Sanofi, Lilly, Galderma, Pierre Fabre, and Johnson & Johnson. Beauty companies in attendance included Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal, Unilever, and Estée Lauder. In addition, Chinese companies such as BTN, Yatsen, Beijing ADSS Development, and Zhuhai Yasha Medical were also present at this conference. So, what new cosmetic technologies were showcased at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology? Chinese Brands in the 25th WCD The WCD is the oldest international dermatology conference in the world and one of the most influential academic conferences in the field of dermatology. It is held every four years and aims to provide a platform for global dermatology experts to showcase the latest research findings, exchange clinical experiences, and establish professional collaborations, promoting the development and practice of dermatology. This year's WCD had over 10,000 attendees from more than 180 countries and regions globally. As a well-known sensitive skin brand under China's beauty giant Betta Pharmaceuticals, VENONA attended the 25th WCD for the third consecutive time, representing the cutting-edge research and development directions of the world's dermatology field. During the conference, Professor Philippe Humbert, Director of the Skin Research Center at the Université de Franche-Comté in France, presented the " Winona's International Preview of Product Achievements Announcement ". With scientific experimental evidence, he fully demonstrated the effectiveness and safety of Winona's Soothing Moisturizing Protective Cream. According to his introduction, the testing agency conducted a double-blind self-controlled trial on the cream, and the results showed that it significantly improved sensitive skin. The "Soothing, Repairing, and Moisturizing" effects of the main active ingredients of purslane and mushroom beta-glucan in the formula were specifically validated. At the same time, Professor He Li, the director of the Department of Dermatology at the First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, delivered a speech on " The breakthrough in the mechanism and precise intervention of melasma." In the speech, Professor He introduced the occurrence of melasma, its precursors, and the value of accurate intervention. She pointed out that previous pigment synthesis would exclude donors, but it has now been found that melanin is also related to skin damage, skin barriers, inflammation, and cell formation, among other factors. In an interview, Professor He also said that clarifying the mechanism of sensitive skin helps promote the development of precise intervention in functional skincare. Skin barrier damage is a critical link in the occurrence of sensitive skin. At the genetic research level, CLDN5 is a key target for sensitive skin. The reduced expression of the tight junction protein claudin-5 encoded by CLDN5 may increase the permeability of the epidermis, leading to damage to the sensitive skin's epidermal barrier. This groundbreaking discovery lays a solid theoretical foundation for the development of skincare products for sensitive skin. Guo Zhenyu, the founder and chairman of BTN, also gave a speech at the conference. He said that this year is the third time BTN has participated in the World Dermatology Congress. Each time, they come with sincerity, bringing the latest advancements in Chinese dermatological research and years of academic accumulation to discuss with top international experts. BTN's mission is to create a comprehensive skin health ecosystem. From sensitive skin care to sensitive skin PLUS, they have developed whitening, sunscreen, and other segmented functional products suitable for sensitive skin. Expanding their focus from adult skin to children's skin, they also provide authoritative skincare solutions and safe, clinically observed products for baby skin. In addition to Winona, Yatsen, the parent company of the well-known Chinese makeup brand Perfect Diary, also participated in the 25th World Congress of Dermatology for the first time, with its two skincare brands, DR.WU and Galenic. During the conference, DR.WU invited Professor Ju Qiang, an authoritative expert in dermatology, to share the latest developments in the clinical research of acne diagnosis and treatment with the use of the Mandelic Acid Complex. They also unveiled for the first time a clinical study currently being conducted in the Dermatology Department of Renji Hospital affiliated with Shanghai Jiao Tong University School of Medicine. Preliminary results showed that the Mandelic Acid Complex (Mandelic Acid Resurfacing Essence 8%) is effective in reducing facial papules, pustules, and acne. In addition, clinical trial results of DR.WU's Composite Acid Acne Gel Professional Channel Product in cooperation with Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital were also released at the WCD. Preliminary results showed that the gel product (containing 5% Mandelic Acid) has a certain repairing effect on the skin barrier and a good moisturizing effect in the treatment of acne, and can effectively reduce papules, whiteheads, and blackheads. Meanwhile, Corine de Farme introduced a series of medical research technologies, product experience trials, and professional efficacy validations to discuss breakthroughs and advancements in the field of dermatology with dermatology experts from around the world. One of the highlights of this year's WCD was the public release of Galenic's Snow Algae Peptide Patent and VC ActiveAnchor™ Technology, a breakthrough Anchor Penetration Technology. In addition, two other Chinese medical device companies attended the conference, including Zhuhai Yasha Medical. and Beijing ADSS Development, both participating in WCD for the first time. Zhuhai Yasha Medical is a company dedicated to skin care, medical devices, and genetic engineering and actively develops pharmaceutical biotechnology and beauty biotechnology, with specialized departments such as pharmaceutical biotechnology research and beauty biotechnology research. Founded in July 2005, Beijing ADSS is a leading medical aesthetic laser equipment manufacturer in China, specializing in the R&D, manufacturing, and sales of medical beauty devices. Its main products include laser hair removal devices, skin tightening devices, and 3D skin analyzers. The participation of more and more Chinese companies in one of the world's largest international dermatology conferences indicates that Chinese beauty enterprises are gaining increasing attention internationally. Estée Lauder unveils five new research findings CHAILEEDO has learned that the Japanese renowned beauty device brand Ya-man made its debut at the World Congress of Dermatology. During the conference, Ya-man showcased the achievements of the brand in technology, products, and medical research collaborations over the past 45 years, as well as its plans for future Asian skin basic research, new beauty device technologies, and new beauty device scenarios. Based on the discovery of the "Expression Muscle Research Institute," Ya-man found that Asian languages, especially Japanese, mainly use the muscles around the lips, leading to insufficient exercise of the facial muscles and making the skin around the eyes more prone to sagging, pigmentation, and unclear contours. In response to this discovery, Ya-man developed wearable technology and used new flexible materials to reduce aging around the eyes. It is reported that the application of new technology and materials can effectively reduce user time and costs, as well as deliver energy more accurately and efficiently, improving skin aging problems. As a regular attendee of the World Congress of Dermatology, Estée Lauder shared its latest research on anti-aging at this year's WCD. Firstly, At the conference, Hao Ouyang, Ph.D., who serves as the Executive Director of Clinical Sciences, presented the results of a six-month evaluator-blinded, randomized, and controlled clinical study that examined the benefits of regular moisturizer use in preventing skin aging. While moisturizers are commonly used to treat dry skin, and are considered a fundamental aspect of skincare, their long-term, standalone benefits have not been fully demonstrated through randomized controlled trials. The study involved 160 women aged 35-65 with dry skin, mild to moderate crow's feet wrinkles, and a low frequency of skincare regimen. The participants were divided into two groups: one group applied moisturizer regularly, while the other group continued to use moisturizer at a low frequency. The study's results demonstrated that regular use of a potent moisturizer not only effectively treats dry skin but also improves the cohesion of the dry skin stratum corneum (the outermost epidermal layer). This improvement can reduce the visible signs of facial aging. Secondly, Jaime Emmetsberger, Ph.D., Lead Scientist at La Mer's Max Huber Research Labs, presented the effect of a multi-ingredient facial cream on skin structure, function, and appearance with evidence from ex vivo and clinical studies. La Mer scientists evaluated a topical cream formulation containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and other ingredients in clinical studies with participants of varying skin tones. In in-vivo experiments, the cream improved skin barrier recovery and resilience, mitigated visible redness and irritation, and demonstrated a reduction in hallmark signs of aged skin in US- and Asia-based populations. Histological assessment of ex vivo human skin explants suggested that topical application enhanced key extracellular matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid, corroborating in vivo results. The findings suggest that the facial cream provides an effective treatment for improving barrier integrity and strength, as well as signs of aging and skin appearance, with regular daily use. Thirdly, Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D., Senior Vice President of Bioscience and Lead Scientist at Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, studied the role of sirtuins (SIRTs) or "longevity proteins" – a type of enzyme that regulates protein expression synchronized to circadian rhythms – in promoting youthful skin properties. The team's previous research found that SIRT activity in skin cells is linked to environmental stressors like UV and ozone. Treatment with SIRT 1, 2, 3, and 6 activators helped to rebuild protein structure and increase collagen production in mature skin cells. In ex vivo skin samples, the combination of SIRT 1 and 3 activators also increased elastin and fibrillin production. Activation of SIRT2 increased skin cell area, a feature typical of younger skin cells. Taken together, all four activators exerted different effects to preserve the mechanical properties of young skin. Fourthly, according to Tom Mammone, Ph.D., Vice President of Advanced Technologies at Bioscience, skin aging, and a dull complexion can be caused by glycation, a chemical modification that occurs on sugar molecules and leads to the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The level of AGEs can be measured through auto-fluorescence at different UV and blue wavelengths. In a study using 3D skin models, six compounds were tested for their anti-glycation properties to determine their ability to reduce auto-fluorescence. The compounds were applied topically over seven days in varying doses and GlcNAc, DE, vitamin C, and E were found to be the most effective in reducing AGE auto-fluorescence compared to skin models treated with the glycation agent methylglyoxal alone. These findings suggest that the anti-glycation capacity of compounds used in skincare formulations may reduce the appearance of skin sallowness. As for the last research finding, Kristine Schmalenberg, Ph.D., Executive Director of Clinical Sciences, presented a clinical trial led by Clinique that evaluated a combination of ingredients that supported natural skin repair compared to a single laser treatment in a group of 42 women with moderate facial photodamage. The study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of the topical product versus a single ablative laser treatment over 16 weeks. Although no significant differences in tolerability were observed, the cosmetic topical product achieved statistically significant improvement in all measured parameters compared to the single laser treatment, demonstrating parity on those parameters. The topical product improved the appearance of global lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, texture, smoothness, and firmness, suggesting efficacy in combating visible signs of skin aging. L'Oréal, Galderma, and P&G continue to invest in dermatology research L’Oréal, the French beauty giant, renamed the L'Oréal Active Cosmetics division to L'Oréal Dermatological Beauty division, showing its focus on dermatology. L'Oréal Dermatological Beauty division includes brands such as La Roche-Posay, Vichy, CeraVe, Decléor, SkinCeuticals, and the medical skincare brand Skinbetter Science. In 2022, L'Oréal Active Cosmetics (now Dermatological Beauty) achieved sales of 5.125 billion euros ($5.58 billion), up 30.6% compared to the same period of 2021, once again becoming the fastest-growing division. In this WCD, L'Oreal's Dermatological Beauty (LDB) division has announced several findings conducted by its brands under the Dermatological Beauty division. L’Oréal shared its new research on ceramides, stating that ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining and repairing the skin's protective barrier. A compromised barrier is linked to several dermatological conditions, such as psoriasis, acne, eczema, and atopic dermatitis. Ceramides represent up to 50% of the skin's lipids, and they serve as a crucial "glue" that holds skin cells together to maintain a healthy and functional skin barrier. The skin barrier is the first line of defense against environmental hazards, such as UV exposure and pollution, and a properly functioning barrier helps to retain moisture and prevent harmful elements from penetrating the skin. CeraVe also shared new findings at the WCD that shed light on the connection between ceramides and the sensation of tightness in the skin, revealing how patients may perceive disruptions in the skin barrier. Additionally, the brand will showcase clinical data that demonstrates the positive effects of restoring the skin barrier in reducing the tightness and discomfort experienced by patients with xerosis or dry skin. SkinCeuticals has more than 35 years of research and over 80 studies that support its expertise in antioxidants. The brand continues to test its C E Ferulic serum against all current and future environmental aggressors that contribute to skin aging, including UV radiation, pollution, metals, and even climate change. A new in-vivo clinical study conducted by the brand has demonstrated that C E Ferulic serum can counteract oxi-inflammatory damage caused by a combination of air pollutants' particulate matter and ultraviolet light. In addition to Estée Lauder and L'Oréal, Galderma, P&G, and Unilever also shared their latest dermatological research at this season's WDC. Galderma, the Swiss pure-play dermatology category leader, shared the latest findings from its OLYMPIA 2 phase III trial at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology in Singapore. The study demonstrated the rapid onset of action of nemolizumab monotherapy for treating prurigo nodularis, with a significantly higher percentage of patients achieving an itch-free state by week 4 compared to the placebo group. Specifically, 19.7% of patients receiving nemolizumab achieved an itch-free state (indicated by a weekly average peak-pruritus numerical rating scale score <2), compared to only 2.2% of the placebo group (p<0.0001). These results build on previous findings that showed a fivefold increase in the number of patients who achieved a clinically relevant improvement in itch intensity at week 4 with nemolizumab compared to placebo. Galderma stated that the OLYMPIA 2 trial assessed the safety, efficacy, pharmacokinetics, and immunogenicity of nemolizumab compared to placebo in adults with moderate to severe prurigo nodularis. Earlier this year, topline data were presented at the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) showing that the study met all primary and secondary endpoints. Nemolizumab monotherapy significantly improved itch, skin clearance, and sleep disturbance. The study also highlighted the rapid onset of action, with patients experiencing improvements in itch, sleep intensity, and skin clearance as early as week 4. The safety profile was consistent with the phase II results. In this WDC, P&G's Grooming Division showcased its product solutions rooted in 120 years of innovation and scientific expertise. This is the fourth time that P&G Grooming demonstrates its deep knowledge of hair and skin science at the conference, where it will exchange research insights with the global dermatological community. At the event, dermatologist delegates will have the opportunity to experience P&G Grooming's use of skin and hair science to deliver world-class at-home hair removal solutions. This includes the latest product regimens for both male and female consumers. Unilever's skin and haircare brands, including Dove, Vaseline, Nutrafol, and Clear R, were also showcased at the WCD. Unilever's booth at the event will feature these brands, as well as breakthrough technologies from Pond's Skin Institute. By integrating dermatology into the cosmetic industry, companies can ensure that their products are backed by scientific knowledge, prioritize skin health, and provide effective solutions for consumers' aesthetic concerns. Dermatologists' expertise contributes to the development, safety, and success of the cosmetic industry, ultimately benefiting both the industry and the consumers seeking cosmetic enhancements.

RED CHAMBER said this round of financing will accelerate clean formula development, solidify the supply chain, and continue to drive brand building and promotion. Today (July 10), it is reported that the clean makeup brand RED CHAMBER has completed a financing round of tens of millions of RMB, led by Xinyi Capital, followed by S'Young, and continued by its previous shareholder, Putman Ventures. It is reported that this round of financing will accelerate clean formula research and development, solid supply chain, and continue to drive brand building and promotion. CHAILEEDO learned that the RED CHAMBER brand was founded in 2020, and sustainability is the core concept of the brand, with products covering foundation, makeup gel, blush eye shadow multi-purpose cream, etc. According to the brand, the average single product development cycle is up to 1.5 years. It is worth mentioning that in 2022, the brand established the first sustainable beauty R&D room in China, covering skincare lab, powder/cream lab and safety testing room. (Credit: From RED CHAMBER flagship store on Tmall) Currently, RED CHAMBER has 32,000 followers on Chinese sharing platform Xiaohongshu and over 6,000 followers on Chinese social platform Weibo. The No. 1 seller in its flagship store on Tmall is blush and eye shadow multipurpose cream, with monthly sales of 30,000+ units. (Credit: from Xiaohongshu and Weibo) According to the data of CHAILEEDO, the global clean beauty market is expected to reach 54.32 billion yuan ($7.5 billion) in 2023, and the global clean beauty market will exceed 80 billion yuan ($11 billion) in 2027.

Details of the deal were not provided in part because the two companies did not want to advertise Creed's high profitability, according to people familiar with the matter. Today (July 10), the Financial Times reported that four people familiar with the matter said that Gucci parent company Kering Group acquired Creed perfume last month for 3.5 billion euros ($3.8 billion). The exact amount of the acquisition was not disclosed when Kering announced the purchase of Creed perfumes last month. According to two people familiar with the matter, details of the deal were not provided in part because the two companies did not want to advertise Creed's high profit margins. It is reported that Creed perfumes was sold by the founding family to BlackRock and Javier Ferrán in early 2020, and this time, it is from the two that Kering Group bought 100% of Creed, and the deal is expected to be completed later this year. It is understood that Creed has more than 1,400 points of sale in the world and the revenue in last year was more than 250 million euros ($273.8 million). It is currently the largest independent high-end perfume brand. CHAILEEDO incomplete statistics found that so far in 2020, Kering Group's acquisition of Creed can be said to have reached a new high in the industry. In June 2020, Puig acquired British makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury, valuing the brand at $1 billion. On January 21, 2021, Ashland Global Holdings acquired the personal care business of Schülke & Mayr GmbH for 263 million euros ($288 million). On June 16, Unilever announced the acquisition of skin care brand Paula's Choice, valuing the company at $2 billion. On December 21, Beiersdorf announced the acquisition of luxury beauty brand Chantecaille, valuing the company at between $590 million and $690 million. On November 11, 2022, Japan's Orix acquired cosmetics and health food company DHC, with a purchase price estimated at about 300 billion yen ($2.1 billion). On November 15 of the same year, Estee Lauder officially announced the acquisition of Tom Ford, valued at $2.8 billion. At the end of May, Puig Group bought high-end perfume brand Byredo, valuing the brand at 1 billion euros ($1.09 billion). And on May 17 this year, "the largest acquisition in the history of L'Oreal" has gained a lot of attention in the industry. L'Oréal Group bought the Aesop brand at a cost of $2.5 billion.