New Cosmetic Technologies at the 25th WCD

On July 8th, the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) concluded in Singapore. As one of the largest international dermatology conferences in the world, this year's event attracted participation from pharmaceutical companies, beauty giants, and renowned dermatologists from around the globe. What new cosmetic technologies were showcased at the 25th WCD?

---

On July 8th, the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) concluded in Singapore.

CHAILEEDO found that the attending pharmaceutical companies included Pfizer, Sanofi, Lilly, Galderma, Pierre Fabre, and Johnson & Johnson. Beauty companies in attendance included Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal, Unilever, and Estée Lauder.

In addition, Chinese companies such as BTN, Yatsen, Beijing ADSS Development, and Zhuhai Yasha Medical were also present at this conference.

So, what new cosmetic technologies were showcased at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology?

Chinese Brands in the 25th WCD

The WCD is the oldest international dermatology conference in the world and one of the most influential academic conferences in the field of dermatology. It is held every four years and aims to provide a platform for global dermatology experts to showcase the latest research findings, exchange clinical experiences, and establish professional collaborations, promoting the development and practice of dermatology. This year's WCD had over 10,000 attendees from more than 180 countries and regions globally.

As a well-known sensitive skin brand under China's beauty giant Betta Pharmaceuticals, VENONA attended the 25th WCD for the third consecutive time, representing the cutting-edge research and development directions of the world's dermatology field.

During the conference, Professor Philippe Humbert, Director of the Skin Research Center at the Université de Franche-Comté in France, presented the " Winona's International Preview of Product Achievements Announcement ". With scientific experimental evidence, he fully demonstrated the effectiveness and safety of Winona's Soothing Moisturizing Protective Cream.

According to his introduction, the testing agency conducted a double-blind self-controlled trial on the cream, and the results showed that it significantly improved sensitive skin. The "Soothing, Repairing, and Moisturizing" effects of the main active ingredients of purslane and mushroom beta-glucan in the formula were specifically validated.

At the same time, Professor He Li, the director of the Department of Dermatology at the First Affiliated Hospital of Kunming Medical University, delivered a speech on " The breakthrough in the mechanism and precise intervention of melasma." In the speech, Professor He introduced the occurrence of melasma, its precursors, and the value of accurate intervention. She pointed out that previous pigment synthesis would exclude donors, but it has now been found that melanin is also related to skin damage, skin barriers, inflammation, and cell formation, among other factors.

In an interview, Professor He also said that clarifying the mechanism of sensitive skin helps promote the development of precise intervention in functional skincare. Skin barrier damage is a critical link in the occurrence of sensitive skin. At the genetic research level, CLDN5 is a key target for sensitive skin. The reduced expression of the tight junction protein claudin-5 encoded by CLDN5 may increase the permeability of the epidermis, leading to damage to the sensitive skin's epidermal barrier. This groundbreaking discovery lays a solid theoretical foundation for the development of skincare products for sensitive skin.

Guo Zhenyu, the founder and chairman of BTN, also gave a speech at the conference. He said that this year is the third time BTN has participated in the World Dermatology Congress. Each time, they come with sincerity, bringing the latest advancements in Chinese dermatological research and years of academic accumulation to discuss with top international experts.

BTN's mission is to create a comprehensive skin health ecosystem. From sensitive skin care to sensitive skin PLUS, they have developed whitening, sunscreen, and other segmented functional products suitable for sensitive skin. Expanding their focus from adult skin to children's skin, they also provide authoritative skincare solutions and safe, clinically observed products for baby skin.

In addition to Winona, Yatsen, the parent company of the well-known Chinese makeup brand Perfect Diary, also participated in the 25th World Congress of Dermatology for the first time, with its two skincare brands, DR.WU and Galenic. During the conference, DR.WU invited Professor Ju Qiang, an authoritative expert in dermatology, to share the latest developments in the clinical research of acne diagnosis and treatment with the use of the Mandelic Acid Complex.

They also unveiled for the first time a clinical study currently being conducted in the Dermatology Department of Renji Hospital affiliated with Shanghai Jiao Tong University School of Medicine. Preliminary results showed that the Mandelic Acid Complex (Mandelic Acid Resurfacing Essence 8%) is effective in reducing facial papules, pustules, and acne.

In addition, clinical trial results of DR.WU's Composite Acid Acne Gel Professional Channel Product in cooperation with Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital were also released at the WCD. Preliminary results showed that the gel product (containing 5% Mandelic Acid) has a certain repairing effect on the skin barrier and a good moisturizing effect in the treatment of acne, and can effectively reduce papules, whiteheads, and blackheads.

Meanwhile, Corine de Farme introduced a series of medical research technologies, product experience trials, and professional efficacy validations to discuss breakthroughs and advancements in the field of dermatology with dermatology experts from around the world. One of the highlights of this year's WCD was the public release of Galenic's Snow Algae Peptide Patent and VC ActiveAnchor™ Technology, a breakthrough Anchor Penetration Technology.

In addition, two other Chinese medical device companies attended the conference, including Zhuhai Yasha Medical. and Beijing ADSS Development, both participating in WCD for the first time. Zhuhai Yasha Medical is a company dedicated to skin care, medical devices, and genetic engineering and actively develops pharmaceutical biotechnology and beauty biotechnology, with specialized departments such as pharmaceutical biotechnology research and beauty biotechnology research.

Founded in July 2005, Beijing ADSS is a leading medical aesthetic laser equipment manufacturer in China, specializing in the R&D, manufacturing, and sales of medical beauty devices. Its main products include laser hair removal devices, skin tightening devices, and 3D skin analyzers.

The participation of more and more Chinese companies in one of the world's largest international dermatology conferences indicates that Chinese beauty enterprises are gaining increasing attention internationally.

Estée Lauder unveils five new research findings

CHAILEEDO has learned that the Japanese renowned beauty device brand Ya-man made its debut at the World Congress of Dermatology. During the conference, Ya-man showcased the achievements of the brand in technology, products, and medical research collaborations over the past 45 years, as well as its plans for future Asian skin basic research, new beauty device technologies, and new beauty device scenarios.

Based on the discovery of the "Expression Muscle Research Institute," Ya-man found that Asian languages, especially Japanese, mainly use the muscles around the lips, leading to insufficient exercise of the facial muscles and making the skin around the eyes more prone to sagging, pigmentation, and unclear contours. In response to this discovery, Ya-man developed wearable technology and used new flexible materials to reduce aging around the eyes. It is reported that the application of new technology and materials can effectively reduce user time and costs, as well as deliver energy more accurately and efficiently, improving skin aging problems.

As a regular attendee of the World Congress of Dermatology, Estée Lauder shared its latest research on anti-aging at this year's WCD.

Firstly, At the conference, Hao Ouyang, Ph.D., who serves as the Executive Director of Clinical Sciences, presented the results of a six-month evaluator-blinded, randomized, and controlled clinical study that examined the benefits of regular moisturizer use in preventing skin aging. While moisturizers are commonly used to treat dry skin, and are considered a fundamental aspect of skincare, their long-term, standalone benefits have not been fully demonstrated through randomized controlled trials.

The study involved 160 women aged 35-65 with dry skin, mild to moderate crow's feet wrinkles, and a low frequency of skincare regimen. The participants were divided into two groups: one group applied moisturizer regularly, while the other group continued to use moisturizer at a low frequency.

The study's results demonstrated that regular use of a potent moisturizer not only effectively treats dry skin but also improves the cohesion of the dry skin stratum corneum (the outermost epidermal layer). This improvement can reduce the visible signs of facial aging.

Secondly, Jaime Emmetsberger, Ph.D., Lead Scientist at La Mer's Max Huber Research Labs, presented the effect of a multi-ingredient facial cream on skin structure, function, and appearance with evidence from ex vivo and clinical studies. La Mer scientists evaluated a topical cream formulation containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and other ingredients in clinical studies with participants of varying skin tones. In in-vivo experiments, the cream improved skin barrier recovery and resilience, mitigated visible redness and irritation, and demonstrated a reduction in hallmark signs of aged skin in US- and Asia-based populations.

Histological assessment of ex vivo human skin explants suggested that topical application enhanced key extracellular matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid, corroborating in vivo results. The findings suggest that the facial cream provides an effective treatment for improving barrier integrity and strength, as well as signs of aging and skin appearance, with regular daily use.

Thirdly, Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D., Senior Vice President of Bioscience and Lead Scientist at Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, studied the role of sirtuins (SIRTs) or "longevity proteins" – a type of enzyme that regulates protein expression synchronized to circadian rhythms – in promoting youthful skin properties. The team's previous research found that SIRT activity in skin cells is linked to environmental stressors like UV and ozone.

Treatment with SIRT 1, 2, 3, and 6 activators helped to rebuild protein structure and increase collagen production in mature skin cells. In ex vivo skin samples, the combination of SIRT 1 and 3 activators also increased elastin and fibrillin production. Activation of SIRT2 increased skin cell area, a feature typical of younger skin cells. Taken together, all four activators exerted different effects to preserve the mechanical properties of young skin.

Fourthly, according to Tom Mammone, Ph.D., Vice President of Advanced Technologies at Bioscience, skin aging, and a dull complexion can be caused by glycation, a chemical modification that occurs on sugar molecules and leads to the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The level of AGEs can be measured through auto-fluorescence at different UV and blue wavelengths.

In a study using 3D skin models, six compounds were tested for their anti-glycation properties to determine their ability to reduce auto-fluorescence. The compounds were applied topically over seven days in varying doses and GlcNAc, DE, vitamin C, and E were found to be the most effective in reducing AGE auto-fluorescence compared to skin models treated with the glycation agent methylglyoxal alone. These findings suggest that the anti-glycation capacity of compounds used in skincare formulations may reduce the appearance of skin sallowness.

As for the last research finding, Kristine Schmalenberg, Ph.D., Executive Director of Clinical Sciences, presented a clinical trial led by Clinique that evaluated a combination of ingredients that supported natural skin repair compared to a single laser treatment in a group of 42 women with moderate facial photodamage. The study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of the topical product versus a single ablative laser treatment over 16 weeks.

Although no significant differences in tolerability were observed, the cosmetic topical product achieved statistically significant improvement in all measured parameters compared to the single laser treatment, demonstrating parity on those parameters. The topical product improved the appearance of global lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, texture, smoothness, and firmness, suggesting efficacy in combating visible signs of skin aging.

L'Oréal, Galderma, and P&G continue to invest in dermatology research

L’Oréal, the French beauty giant, renamed the L'Oréal Active Cosmetics division to L'Oréal Dermatological Beauty division, showing its focus on dermatology. L'Oréal Dermatological Beauty division includes brands such as La Roche-Posay, Vichy, CeraVe, Decléor, SkinCeuticals, and the medical skincare brand Skinbetter Science. In 2022, L'Oréal Active Cosmetics (now Dermatological Beauty) achieved sales of 5.125 billion euros ($5.58 billion), up 30.6% compared to the same period of 2021, once again becoming the fastest-growing division.

In this WCD, L'Oreal's Dermatological Beauty (LDB) division has announced several findings conducted by its brands under the Dermatological Beauty division.

L’Oréal shared its new research on ceramides, stating that ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining and repairing the skin's protective barrier. A compromised barrier is linked to several dermatological conditions, such as psoriasis, acne, eczema, and atopic dermatitis.

Ceramides represent up to 50% of the skin's lipids, and they serve as a crucial "glue" that holds skin cells together to maintain a healthy and functional skin barrier. The skin barrier is the first line of defense against environmental hazards, such as UV exposure and pollution, and a properly functioning barrier helps to retain moisture and prevent harmful elements from penetrating the skin.

CeraVe also shared new findings at the WCD that shed light on the connection between ceramides and the sensation of tightness in the skin, revealing how patients may perceive disruptions in the skin barrier. Additionally, the brand will showcase clinical data that demonstrates the positive effects of restoring the skin barrier in reducing the tightness and discomfort experienced by patients with xerosis or dry skin.

SkinCeuticals has more than 35 years of research and over 80 studies that support its expertise in antioxidants. The brand continues to test its C E Ferulic serum against all current and future environmental aggressors that contribute to skin aging, including UV radiation, pollution, metals, and even climate change. A new in-vivo clinical study conducted by the brand has demonstrated that C E Ferulic serum can counteract oxi-inflammatory damage caused by a combination of air pollutants' particulate matter and ultraviolet light.

In addition to Estée Lauder and L'Oréal, Galderma, P&G, and Unilever also shared their latest dermatological research at this season's WDC.

Galderma, the Swiss pure-play dermatology category leader, shared the latest findings from its OLYMPIA 2 phase III trial at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology in Singapore. The study demonstrated the rapid onset of action of nemolizumab monotherapy for treating prurigo nodularis, with a significantly higher percentage of patients achieving an itch-free state by week 4 compared to the placebo group. Specifically, 19.7% of patients receiving nemolizumab achieved an itch-free state (indicated by a weekly average peak-pruritus numerical rating scale score <2), compared to only 2.2% of the placebo group (p<0.0001).

These results build on previous findings that showed a fivefold increase in the number of patients who achieved a clinically relevant improvement in itch intensity at week 4 with nemolizumab compared to placebo.

Galderma stated that the OLYMPIA 2 trial assessed the safety, efficacy, pharmacokinetics, and immunogenicity of nemolizumab compared to placebo in adults with moderate to severe prurigo nodularis. Earlier this year, topline data were presented at the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) showing that the study met all primary and secondary endpoints. Nemolizumab monotherapy significantly improved itch, skin clearance, and sleep disturbance. The study also highlighted the rapid onset of action, with patients experiencing improvements in itch, sleep intensity, and skin clearance as early as week 4. The safety profile was consistent with the phase II results.

In this WDC, P&G's Grooming Division showcased its product solutions rooted in 120 years of innovation and scientific expertise. This is the fourth time that P&G Grooming demonstrates its deep knowledge of hair and skin science at the conference, where it will exchange research insights with the global dermatological community.

At the event, dermatologist delegates will have the opportunity to experience P&G Grooming's use of skin and hair science to deliver world-class at-home hair removal solutions. This includes the latest product regimens for both male and female consumers.

Unilever's skin and haircare brands, including Dove, Vaseline, Nutrafol, and Clear R, were also showcased at the WCD. Unilever's booth at the event will feature these brands, as well as breakthrough technologies from Pond's Skin Institute.

By integrating dermatology into the cosmetic industry, companies can ensure that their products are backed by scientific knowledge, prioritize skin health, and provide effective solutions for consumers' aesthetic concerns. Dermatologists' expertise contributes to the development, safety, and success of the cosmetic industry, ultimately benefiting both the industry and the consumers seeking cosmetic enhancements.