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  • 150-Million Annual Sales! UNISKIN Competing Against Time

    On April 25th, Chen Liang, director of innovation and research and development of UNISKIN and head of scientific communication, introduced the product research and development and core pipeline of the UNISKIN brand at the online sharing meeting of the China Cosmetics Trend Conference. UNISKIN is a Chinese anti-ageing brand, which mainly promotes anti-ageing skincare products, specifically for Chinese skin, helping consumers to fight against time and solve the problem of skin ageing. Inspired in 2016 and officially founded in 2018, UNISKIN is an anti-ageing brand specializing in the skin of Chinese people. Through the research of Chinese skin data and the insight of ageing trajectory, UNISKIN is committed to the precise research and development, targeting the symptoms and creating highly effective anti-ageing products suitable for the skin of Chinese people. It passes on to consumers the concept of scientific skincare thinking, body and skin synergy and balance with the star products including the "Smile eye cream" and the "RETINOID SKIN RENEWAL TREATMENT". The founder of UNISKIN Dule graduated from the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) with a degree in molecular cell biology and also received his M.D. from Albany Medical College, one of the oldest medical schools in the United States, and later became a resident physician in the internal medicine department of UCLA Affiliated Hospital. The core members of the founding team all have scientific research backgrounds from overseas universities with its R&D team spanning 5 different professional fields such as clinical medicine, molecular computational biology and the chemical industry. Before the establishment of the brand in 2018, the start-up team of UNISKIN began to study dermatology. According to Mr Chen, at the very beginning, UNISKIN was dedicated into studying the data of the skin of Chinese people because almost all of the European and American big-name skincare products are almost all based on European and American people whose skin tends to be whiter as research objects whether it is the development of products or the verification of efficacy. While the skin of Chinese and Western people has significant differences in the thickness of the stratum corneum as well as the content and distribution of melanin. Therefore, these products with European and American people whose skin tends to be whiter as research objects are not necessarily suitable for Chinese users. "First, UNISKIN develops anti-ageing products suitable for Chinese users based on the characteristics of Chinese skin ageing. Second, UNISKIN will verify the ingredients, efficacy as well as human safety tests at the cellular and human body levels to ensure that the product can achieve the desired effect." Chen Liang said. Chen Liang also revealed that in the past few years, UNISKIN has been conducting research on the skin of Chinese people, accumulated 25,000 pieces of multi-omics skin data, published 5 SCI articles on dermatology and applied for 4 patented technologies and 18 software copyrights. In collaboration with a group of outstanding experts in the United Nations as well as a group of outstanding peers, UNISKIN launched the establishment project of the Evaluation Standard Chinese Skin Aging, which is currently steadily advancing. It is understood that under the year-long research and analysis of the scientific research team of UNISKIN, the construction of the skin database system for Chinese people was completed and UNISKIN has also begun to emerge in the beauty industry. A year and a half later, the star product called "Smile eye cream" was sold hot so that the domestic brand of UNISKIN quickly spread nationwide through the internet. Since its establishment three years ago, UNISKIN's sales have increased significantly. In 2020, the UNISKIN reached 150 million yuan (about $22.85 million) in the Omni-channel total sales revenue, while the sales in the first quarter of 2021 increased by more than 350% year-on-year. In March 2021 alone, UNISKIN reached more than 40 million yuan (more than $6.09 million) in selling single products, higher than the sales of the Double Eleven shopping festival in 2020. In 2021, UNISKIN was favoured by capital and carried out two rounds of financing in about half a year with the A round of financing being led by HONY CAPITAL and the old shareholder Sequoia Capital continuing to invest, the B round of financing being co-invested by MSA Capital and VMS Group and TAIHECAP being served as the exclusive financial advisor. With the blessing of capital, the performance of UNISKIN is better than before. In 2021, during the Double Eleven shopping festival, the cumulative transaction amount of the UNISKIN flagship store on Tmall was nearly 80 million (about $12.18 million), increased by 216% year-on-year. The star item "WRINKLE REDUCING EYE CREAM2.0" topped among the eye creams of the domestic beauty product on Tmall, with a sales volume of over 130,000. At the online sharing meeting, Chen Liang not only shared the research and development process of UNISKIN and introduced the positioning and products of the brand, but also explained some of his views and insights on how to make differences under some new laws and regulations to be implemented in the Chinese cosmetics industry. He said that in this regard, the most important thing is to create differentiated products and a scientific communication system. The importance of regulations to the cosmetics industry is self-evident, but it is not difficult to see that UNISKIN has a basic idea of coping with external changes from the early days of its establishment to the current performance. As for the future performance of the brand, it can only be said that it is quite promising.

  • L'Oreal Group Launches a New Circular Innovation Fund Supporting Sustainability

    Beauty giant L'Oréal Group established Circular Innovation Fund to develop its concept of sustainable development. Moreover, Lancome, owned by L'Oreal, also adheres the same concept and launched campaign Empty Bottle Recycling Program in China. To make the World Earth Day, beauty giant L'Oréal Group announced the creation of the Circular Innovation Fund (CIF). The fund aims to expand circular economy solutions by supporting sustainable-minded start-ups in North America, Europe and Asia. The Circular Innovation Fund will be run by two cleantech-focused capital management firms, Demeter and Cycle Capital, and will also benefit from a range of impact investors. As part of the sustainability program L'Oréal for the Future, L'Oréal has contributed $53.405 million to this $160 million-level fund. Christophe Babule, Executive Vice-President, Chief Financial Officer of L'Oréal, explains, "L'Oréal is the initiator of the Circular Innovation Fund and its first investor with €50 million. I am convinced that finance can play a decisive role in mitigating the impacts of climate change and can be a vehicle for progress. We believe impact investment is one of the ways we can contribute to spur innovation in the circular economy space as part of the L'Oréal For the Future program. Impact investing is a perfect illustration of sustainable finance, that is to say, the ability to combine financial value creation with environmental and social value creation." L'Oréal has also implemented the concept of sustainability into the daily operations of its brands. Lancôme, L'Oréal's premium beauty brand, has announced the purchase of Le Domaine de la Rose, an eco-conscious estate located on 9.8 acres in the Grasse region of France, where Lancôme will launch fragrances made from roses grown at Le Domaine de la Rosa from June this year. Lancôme said the deal is part of the brand's strategic plan to meet its commitment to social and environmental responsibility, with the goal of using 100 percent organic roses expected to be achieved by 2025. In fact, Lancôme has owned three plantations in France totaling 10 hectares of roses and other plants since 2020. Founded in 1935, Lancôme has always been committed to the elegance and beauty of women around the world, but also upholds the vision of giving back to society and protecting the earth, insisting on committing to green public welfare and leading by example in practicing environmental protection. As an important part of the brand's core programs, Lancôme has carried out various sustainable environmental activities worldwide, including projects related to the recycling of waste products. Since its launch, the "Empty Bottle Recycling Program" has covered 100% of Lancôme's offline stores nationwide, setting up empty bottle recycling bins in more than 330 stores and encouraging consumers to put empty bottles of used products into the recycling bins. As of March 31, 2021, Lancôme has collected 73,195.1KG of empty bottles, which is equivalent to 3,324,312 empty bottles, accounting for 17% of the total number of products sold by the brand offline. With the promotion of the "Empty Bottle Recycling Program", Lancôme not only benefits the environment and society, but also gains more consumers' recognition and favor while achieving the goal of sustainable development, and the points reward mechanism also gives back to consumers, truly achieving a win-win situation for all three parties and realizing common sustainable development. The "Empty Bottle Recycling Program", as one of the core programs to demonstrate Lancôme's commitment to sustainability and its mission of responsibility, is in line with the brand's core values of care and delivery, and provides customers with more sustainable consumption choices through its own actions. This has also successfully increased the return rate of consumers, thus further boosting sales. Through the recycling program, empty product bottles are treated in the most appropriate way to minimize energy consumption and reduce the impact on the global environment. These empty skincare bottles collected from consumers in Lancôme stores are first transported to the Terra Eco warehouse for storage. After accumulating a certain amount of recycling, the empty bottles are sorted, washed and recycled, and then prepared into reusable raw materials, contributing to environmental sustainability. In 2021, L'Oréal became the first "10 billion" group in the history of Tmall's Double 11(Chinese Shopping Carnival). During the Tmall Double 11, L'Oréal Group broke sales records. In 2019, Lancôme sold 11 billion yuan(about $1.68 billion) in China. By 2020, annual sales will increase by 36.4% to 15 billion yuan(about $2.29 billion). In Lancôme's official flagship store on the Chinese e-commerce platform Tmall, the top seller is Lancôme Tonique Confort, with total sales of 1 million + and monthly sales of 10,000 +, priced at 435 yuan. It's ranked second in the list of toner repurchases, the first Chinese brand BM Radiant Essential Toner.

  • Unilever-owned Vaseline Launches Database of Conditions on Skin

    In recent years, there have been more and more cases of beauty brands being empowered by technology, and technology for skin texture and testing has emerged. Unilever-owned Vaseline launched a database of skin conditions for caring for, treating and monitoring skin at home. Unilever-owned Vaseline has teamed up with HUED and VisualDx to launch See My Skin, a database of skin conditions shown on the skin of color with a view to improving healthcare outcomes for people of color. The platform offers educational resources guiding consumers through caring for, treating and monitoring skin at home, and invites the community to contribute their own images in order to improve representation of skin of color. The database allows users to search for skin conditions and facilitates connections with board-certified and culturally competent dermatologists. Users are also encouraged to submit their own images to expand the representation of skin of color. All content on the platform is independently evaluated for accuracy and relevance by Vaseline’s Dermatology Review Board. The launch of the See My Skin database marks the latest initiative undertaken by Unilever to build a more equitable and inclusive society. See My Skin received a warm reception online following its debut earlier this week. Helena Öhman, VP of creative technology and innovation strategy at Edelman, commended her team on LinkedIn for their efforts around the launch of See My Skin, adding “the work moves mountains.” In recent years, there have been more and more cases of beauty brands being empowered by technology, and technology for skin texture and testing has emerged. In March 2022, Shiseido launched a DNA skin testing program "Beauty DNA Program". It is said that Shiseido has successfully developed a new DNA test that can evaluate the different innate skin characteristics of each person with high precision by combining AI technology with big data of 1,472 Japanese women and clarifying the correlation between DNA characteristics and skin condition, and building an algorithm based on the results obtained. This method combines the direct influence of skin elements and indirect influences such as blood vessels, hormones, and vitamin metabolism, and uses a large amount of actual skin measurement data to create an algorithm that can test a client's skin condition with high accuracy. Through the "Beauty DNA Program", Shiseido can provide the best skin care method based on the test results and offer customers a "customized beauty experience" anytime, anywhere, which is also Shiseido's way to respond to the changing needs of customers after the new crown epidemic. This is Shiseido's way of responding to the changing needs of its customers in the wake of the COVID-19 outbreak. Once the system is officially launched, Shiseido will send seasonal beauty advice via email based on the DNA test results. At the 2021 China International Import Expo held in Shanghai, China, a large number of beauty and personal care brands are offering devices such as virtual makeup trials and skin texture tests for visitors to experience, such as Estee Lauder's multiple handheld devices that test skin color, moisturizing, and barrier function. Unilever's oral brightening brand Signal's Shark that applies smart tooth color recognition technology to provide professional care advice. And Kose's mask customization service that scans the face to create 3D data and instantly print mask customization services, and a live experience of a personalized nail printer in collaboration with Casio. International Skin Care Inc., Beiersdorf also debuted its patented technology, Skinly, a home-use skin diagnostic device, where the Beiersdorf R&D team made it possible for "consumers to test their skin texture at home in real time". The Skinly is the size of a credit card, but functions almost like a large testing device. According to the report, consumers only need a high-precision instrument at home to conduct skin quality testing, while the instrument will also record sleep, water consumption, emotions and other factors on the impact on the skin. In addition to diagnosing skin quality, the instrument is also able to monitor the pollution condition of the surrounding environment in real time, combined with the consumer's own personal eating habits, and in the case of female consumers, can also be combined with the physiological cycle for personalized testing of the skin. It is worth mentioning that Shohei Tamura, General Manager of Shiseido China R&D Center, unveiled two cutting-edge technologies that debuted outside of Japan, "Daily Disposable Skin" and "Skin Elasticity Visualization". It is said that Shiseido's "Daily Disposable Skin" technology combines Olivo Laboratories' "Second Skin" technology with Shiseido's original "3D Fix Technology". Olivo Laboratories, a U.S.-based company acquired by Shiseido in 2018, owns the patent and business related to the artificial skin formation technology "Second Skin" uses an invisible elastomeric polymer as a raw material that can be used as a skin coating to directly replace the original aging skin, creating a breathable, flexible, invisible artificial skin. This layer of skin can hide sun damage, hide wrinkles, uneven skin tone and other skin problems, giving consumers a smoother and younger looking skin.

  • 10 Companies Including Estee Lauder Caught in High-risk Problems

    Recently, the Public Opinion Monitoring Center of China Health Media Group (CHMG) issued a risk warning prompt for "Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and medical devices", and 10 companies such as Estée Lauder were listed due to unqualified products and fire safety problems. The listing data is modeled from multiple dimensions such as negative communication, excessive publicity, business risk, and production violations. Recently, the Public Opinion Monitoring Center of China Health Media Group under the National Medical Products Administration issued the Enterprise Risk Warning Tips (Phase III of 2022) about "Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and medical devices", disclosing the top ten enterprises in the risk index of cosmetics companies. The warning monitoring period ranges from March 1 to March 31 (due to the rolling update of the monitoring platform data, the risk warning prompt will be dynamically updated as well). Among them, JINGHONGDA ranked first in the risk index as a "highly concerned enterprise". The remaining 9 enterprises such as Estée Lauder Companies (hereinafter referred to as "Estée Lauder") ranked second to tenth respectively, all of which are "key concerned enterprises". It is reported that the risk warning prompt data of enterprises about the "Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and medical devices" is collected from the risk warning platforms of Chinese drugs, medical devices, and cosmetics in China. The platform data assigns different weights to the relevant data in the past 5 years and models multiple dimensions such as negative communication, excessive publicity, complaints and reports, product defects, business risks, penalty lawsuits, and production violations. The first place in the risk index is JINGHONGDA with a highly concerned risk degree. On March 8, Beijing time (the time of this article is all Beijing time), JINGHONGDA hair dye cream was notified by the Gansu Medical Products Administration because of the detection of the unmarked approval documents and hair dye on the labels. On March 22, the JINGHONGDA hair dye cream was stopped from sales by the Jiangxi Provincial Drug Administration because it was unqualified. In addition, in January this year, JINGHONGDA was also notified by the Jiangxi Provincial Drug Administration and the Hubei Medical Products Administration due to the problem of unqualified products. Among the other "key concern businesses", Estée Lauder was fined $839 by Chinese regulators for failing to eliminate fire hazards promptly. It is worth mentioning that in January this year, Estée Lauder was fined $374,600 by the MSA for publishing advertising content containing "Youth Index + 77%" through multiple channels for suspected violations of the relevant provisions of the Advertising Law of the People's Republic of China. The above 10 companies were listed due to unqualified products, fire safety problems and failure to set up quality and safety leaders by regulations. Among them, 8 enterprises were raised to the risk warning level due to an unqualified total number of colonies and excessive arsenic content. The supervision of cosmetics quality and safety has always been the top priority of the relevant regulatory authorities in China, and since the promulgation of the new regulations on China's cosmetics industry, China has continuously strengthened the supervision of the quality and safety of cosmetic products. With the tightening of relevant laws and regulations in China, "being punished" and "banning business" have also become normalized, and the industry is showing a picture of increasingly rigorous and tightening regulations, especially regarding product safety issues, for which practitioners cannot relax for a moment.

  • Cosmetic Labels with Flaws? Don't Throw Away!

    If there is a defect in the cosmetic label, how can the company correct it? Should the ingredients of protective raw materials such as antioxidants and preservatives added to raw materials be marked on the product label? On April 19, Beijing time, the National Institute for Food and Drug Control answered 24 questions at a time, answering the common and difficult questions that people in the cosmetics industry are most concerned about.

  • 2.2 Billion Yuan of Annual Retail Sales! One Leaf Grabs the Hearts of Chinese G ZEN

    To support Shanghai's fight against the epidemic, CHICMAX, the parent company of Chinese skincare brand One Leaf, donated a batch of 50 boxes of products and materials including a One Leaf mask. One Leaf is one of the core brands of CHICMAX, the main product is masked with sales revenue in 2020 reaching 2.2 billion yuan (about $339 million). One Leaf not only relies on the parent company giving strong R & D technology and financial support but also has firmly grabbed the hearts of young people in both making products and marketing. On the morning of April 22, the Chinese cosmetics company CHICMAX donated a batch of 50 boxes of materials to Ruijin Hospital, Shanghai Jiaotong University School Of Medicine. Ms Yu, the vice president of CHICMAX, came to the scene to assist in the distribution of materials and successfully delivered products and materials such as the masks of One Leaf, the core brand of CHICMAX, to the hands of angels in white. CHICMAX is the parent company of the Chinese skincare brand One Leaf. As one of the core brands of CHICMAX, founded in 2014, One Leaf focuses on facial mask products, claiming to add pure natural plant extracts to skincare products, combining Olaf-H2O reservoir technology to bring more moisture and nourishment to the skin. The brand's star products include the "MULTI-EFFECT GOLDEN HONEYCOMB MASK", the "LACTOBACILLUS ACTIVATING PEACH MASK", the "NICOTINAMIDE BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZING SERUM" and the series of acne removal products. Since the launch of One Leaf with the mask being the core product, it has become a hit within a few years. During the Double Eleven shopping festival in 2016, One Leaf won the championship of all mask categories on all online shopping platforms and the top three on Tmall beauty with a total transaction amount on Tmall being about $19.23 million. In the same year, One Leaf masks surpassed MG and became the number one mask brand in China in terms of sales revenue. During the Double Eleven shopping festival in 2017, One Leaf flagship store on Tmall ranked in the top 3 of domestic beauty with a turnover of about $24.76 million. One Leaf's star product "NICOTINAMIDE BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZING SERUM" directly satisfies the needs of "anti-blue light" "improve the tired skin" and other needs. One Leaf has sold more than 2.3 million bottles so far. As the star product in One Leaf flagship store on Tmall, in April 2020, the "NICOTINAMIDE BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZING SERUM" topped the essence categories on Tmall. According to a report by the consulting firm Frost & Sullivan, CHICMAX is the only domestic cosmetics company with two skincare brands with retail sales of more than 2 billion yuan in 2020: its brand KANS retail sales of about 2.9 billion yuan (about $446 million), and One Leaf retail sales of more than 2.2 billion yuan (about $339 million). In 2021, One Leaf was selected as the "Top 20 Most User-Biased Makeup Brands in 2021" The above-mentioned eye-catching achievements are closely related to the strong scientific research strength of One Leaf backed by the parent company CHICMAX. CHICMAX invests hundreds of millions of dollars in product research and development every year, establishes a global dual-core scientific research center in Shanghai and Kobe, Japan, builds a team of 100 scientists, integrates global resources and carries out external cooperation with advanced research institutions, high-tech enterprises and universities to form a unique ecological link for foreign cooperation and it has so far obtained 188 patents. In addition to the strong R&D strength and financial support, One Leaf's remarkable marketing strategy in recent years has also attracted much attention in the industry. In 2020, One Leaf carried out a comprehensive upgrade, targeting users to young women aged 18 to 35. At the same time, One Leaf launched all-around marketing to deepen interaction and communication with young users. In March 2020, One Leaf announced that Zhang Xincheng, a new generation idol born after 1995s, became the spokesperson of One Leaf. One Leaf includes Zhang Xincheng's huge young fan group into the target consumer group by using the economic effect of followers to carry out deeper spiritual links and communication with users and better convey the cultural concept of young and positive energy of the brand. On March 23, One Leaf announced that Zhang Zhehan was the spokesperson, and on the same day, the topic of # ZhangZhehan's fateful endorsement of One Leaf # rushed to the trending list on Weibo with the number of views exceeding 100 million. On May 28, 2021, One Leaf announced Di Li Reba as its mask spokesperson with the topic # Muscle encounter love, against age # ushed to the trending list on Weibo with the number of views exceeding 43 million and the number of discussions exceeding 1 million. In addition to frequently changing the spokesperson following a wave to ride, One Leaf also invested in various hot dramas and variety shows. For example, shortly after the official announcement that Zhang Xin became a spokesperson, One Leaf exclusively named the annual sweet and sugar drama with Zhang Xincheng as the protagonist on YOUKU, in a way strongly recommending One Leaf's best-selling favorite product gold mask. In August 2020, One Leaf cooperated with a drama on Tencent Video with more than 600 million views, bringing a new wave of heat to One Leaf with its circle-breaking influence. In terms of variety shows, One Leaf is exclusively named on some hot programs on Zhejiang Satellite TV and Hunan Satellite TV as well as some popular variety shows on YOUKU. All of those efforts make great achievements in the exposure to the brand One Leaf. In addition, One Leaf has also carried out a global layout on social media in a way that young people like, having lots of young followers on platforms such as TikTok and Xiaohongshu. Liu Ming, the vice president of CHICMAX, the parent company of One Leaf, made it clear in an interview with the media that brand rejuvenation should understand users and brands should make products in a way that young people like. CHICMAX insists on where young people are and where marketing goes. On December 31, 2020, One Leaf won the "Best Marketing Award" at the award ceremony of the Golden Goods Award and New Domestic Product Innovation Competition. In January 2022, One Leaf's parent company, CHICMAX, submitted a prospectus to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, impacting the "first share of Hong Kong domestic cosmetics". According to the prospectus, One Leaf contributed about $162 million, about $155 million and about $99.2 million in sales revenue from 2019 to September 2021. In 2019, One Leaf exceeded KANS which is the main brand of CHICMAX in the annual sales revenue.

  • China's Biggest Facial and Body Care Company Goes Public in Hong Kong

    On April 22, 2022, Beijing time, Beauty Farm submitted a prospectus to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange for listing on the main board of Hong Kong. Beauty Farm is the largest daily facial and body care chain enterprise and the second largest body and skincare service provider in China. On April 22, Beijing time (the following occurrence time in Beijing time), Beauty Farm Medical and Health Industry Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Beauty Farm) submitted a prospectus to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange for listing on the Main Board of Hong Kong. The co-sponsors are Morgan Stanley, Haitong International Securities Group Limited, and Huatai Securities. According to the prospectus, Beauty Farm was established in 1993 and currently has four brands: "Beauty Farm", "PALAISPA", "Yanyuan" and "CellCare". As of December 31, 2021, Beauty Farm has 177 stores in China, including 154 Beauty Farm and PALAISPA stores that provide daily facial and body care services, 18 CellCare stores that provide energy instruments and injection services, and 5 Yanyuan stores that provide anti-aging medical services. In addition, it has 160 franchised stores. In terms of financial data, Beauty Farm reached $216 million, $231 million, and $274 million of sales revenue respectively with the net profit being $23 million, $23 million, and $32 million respectively, and a compound annual growth rate of 18.9% from 2019 to 2021. It is worth noting that the full-year revenue of Beauty Farm in 2021 reached $274 million, an increase of 18.5% year-on-year, and the gross profit margin was 46.8%, an increase of 0.2% over the same period in 2020, and the profit attributable to shareholders increased by 28.2% year-on-year to $0.30 billion. According to Frost & Sullivan, China reached $76.946 billion in the market size of body and skincare services in 2021 and is expected to increase to $162.520 billion in 2030 at a compound annual growth rate of 8.7%. From the perspective of market position, according to the prospectus, China's body and skincare service market is highly fragmented and Beauty Farm ranks second in China in terms of revenue. Beauty Farm ranks first among Chinese competitors in 2021 in terms of daily facial and body care services and revenue from direct stores. According to the revenue of energy instruments and injection services in 2021, Beauty Farm ranks fourth among competitors in the Chinese market. Due to the beauty industry, there are certain medical risks at the Beauty Farm. Medical disputes in Beauty Farm are mainly related to complications and physical trauma suffered by customers during or after receiving services in the store or related to customer complaints received. The prospectus mentions that in 2019, a customer underwent eyelid plastic surgery at one of its direct-operated stores and about two months later, the customer sued Beauty Farm for damages due to the blockage of the central retinal artery. The Chinese court ultimately announced the store compensated $16,800 in damages because the customer had not been informed of this particular risk before the operation. The prospectus also discloses the refunds and compensation, the total refunds and compensation made by Beauty Farm to customers were about $1.5534 million, $2.9683 million, and $3.3682 million respectively from 2019 to 2021, accounting for about 0.7%, 1.3%, and 1.2% of the total revenue for the same period. It is reported that the funds raised by the IPO will be used to expand and upgrade the service network will be used for the strategic mergers and acquisitions of franchise stores, to further invest in IT systems to develop internal digital capabilities, streamline daily operations and improve operational efficiency as well as in operating funds and other general corporate purposes.

  • Top 100 Global Beauty Giants Released and 7 Chinese Companies Included

    WWD BeautyInc(Women's Wear Daily, a professional beauty media) announced a list of the top 100 global beauty companies by sales in 2021, ranking the top three companies as L'Oreal, Unilever, Estee Lauder, of which seven Chinese companies are on the list, namely YSG, Shanghai Jahwa, PROYA, JALA, CHICMAX, Bloomage Biotech and MARUBI. Recently, WWD BeautyInc released a list of the top 100 global beauty companies by sales in 2021, which shows a buoyant industry with sales surpassing 2020 levels. According to statistics, after divesting the non-cosmetic business, in fiscal year 2021, the top 10 global cosmetics companies in terms of revenue are L'Oreal, Unilever, Estee Lauder, P&G, Johnson & Johnson, Shiseido, Natura&CO, LVMH, Beiersdorf and Kao, with the overall volume of revenue of the 10 companies reaching $139.089 billion. Among them, LVMH has the fastest growth rate, its cosmetics division including Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy, Benefit, fresh and other brands, including revenue growth of up to 27% year-on-year. China's Hainan duty-free stores have made a significant contribution to it. "We find in 2021 that Chinese customers buy more from LVMH than in 2019, despite the fact that they cannot travel abroad." said Bernard Arnault, Chairman and Chairman of LVMH. In 2021, the L'Oréal Group achieved double-digit growth in China, twice the growth rate of the global cosmetics market at large; in the past year, Estée Lauder's retail sales for its single brand exceeded 10 billion yuan in the Chinese online channel alone. Kao, which owns brands such as Biore and Curel, has achieved strong growth in China through e-commerce channels and Natura&Co is now preparing for the full entry of its Aesop and The Body Shop into the Chinese offline market, with The Body Shop's first store in China likely to land in 2022. The strategic importance of the Chinese market to the growth of global cosmetics companies needs no introduction. In fact, the first quarter 2022 earnings reports of major beauty companies have recently been released. L'Oreal released financial data for the first quarter of 2022. The data showed that L'Oréal Group sales in the first quarter were $9.82 billion, reporting a 19% increase year-on-year. With double-digit growth in mainland China, L'Oréal continues to outperform the beauty market average by a wide margin. This was made possible by our successful campaigns during the Chinese New Year, Valentine's Day and Women's Day. The Group further consolidated its leading position in mainland China, continuing to win market share both online and offline. The travel retail market in Hainan remained dynamic, and L'Oréal also performed strongly in this market. Johnson & Johnson (JNJ.US) announced its Q1 2022 results. According to the financial report, Johnson & Johnson's Q1 revenue was $23.426 billion, up 5% year-on-year; net profit was $5.149 billion, down 16.9% year-on-year. During the reporting period, the Q1 revenue of the consumer health segment, including cosmetics, was $3.586 billion, down 1.5% year-on-year, which was the only segment in which Johnson & Johnson's performance declined during the quarter. The main reason for the decline was that the division's skin health/beauty, oral care and baby care businesses lost some of their market shares due to supply chain issues, which led to capacity constraints for the goods to meet consumer demand in a timely manner. Overall, among the global Top 10 cosmetic companies, three are in the U.S., two in France, one in the U.K., two in Japan, one in Germany, and one in Brazil. But among the global Top 100 companies, seven Chinese companies are on the list, namely YSG, Shanghai Jahwa, PROYA, JALA, CHICMAX, Bloomage Biotech and MARUBI.. Among them, Bloomage Biotech ranked first among the 100 companies with a growth rate of 146.6%. The 2021 annual report disclosed by Bloomage Biotech in March showed that the revenue of Bloomage Biotech rose 87.93% to $783 million in 2021, and the net profit attributable to shareholders of the listed company was $124 million, up 21.13% year-on-year. The reason for the large increase in revenue is that in 2021, based on the main cosmetics business segment, Bloomage Biotech continued to launch market demand products, such as Biohyalux and Quadha, which are well known among young people, to achieve sales revenue of functional skin care products compared with the previous year. The sales revenue of functional skin care products increased by US$312 million or 146.57% compared with the previous year.

  • Coach's parent company Steps into Travel Retail City Hainan

    Coach's parent company Tapestry Group plans to place the headquarters for its China travel retail business in Hainan. Moreover, Coach Fragrance, which was represented and operated by Chinese company Eternal, even saw a year-on-year increase of over 120% in turnover in just two days during the presale of Double 11, Chinese Shopping Carnival, in 2021. Tapestry Group, which owns the Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman brands, is all set to place the headquarters for its China travel retail business in Hainan. New York-listed Tapestry formally signed a strategic cooperation agreement with the Hainan Provincial Bureau of International Economic Development (Hainan IEDB) and a bonded zone committee in Haikou, the capital of the island province, on Tuesday. Hainan wants to be the center of travel retail and free trade in China. Last year in May, IEDB held the inaugural China International Consumer Products Expo in Haikou, which attracted over 1,500 domestic and foreign companies from around 70 countries. Exhibitors included a host of luxury brands including some big names like Burberry, De Beers, L'Oréal, Shiseido Swarovski, Swatch and Tapestry. The event shifted the focus away from Singapore where the duty-free industry usually gathers in the same month for its leading regional show, TFWA Asia Pacific, which was replaced with an online forum last year due to the pandemic. While Hainan has buoyed travel retail in very hard times, it is now suffering an unforeseen setback. Due to the high Covid case numbers in China and subsequent lockdowns, sales contracted in March after surging by 33% to $2 billion in January and February. The contraction could continue into April given the scale of the outbreak. Tapestry has already felt the pressure of China's current economic unpredictability. The company's fiscal 2022 second quarter results (ending December 2021) showed low-single digit revenue gains in Greater China after booming numbers in previous periods, admittedly against sometimes soft comparisons. Overall, Tapestry achieved revenue of $2.14 billion during Q2 FY2022, up 27%, of which $1.5 billion came from Coach, $500 million from Kate Spade, and $116 million from shoemaker Stuart Weitzman. The weight of Greater China is now 19% up from 15% in FY2019. In 2019, Tapestry, Inc. presented at the 2nd China International Import Expo (hereinafter referred to as "the Expo") with the theme of "Creative Fashion Integration, Exploring the Future Win-Win", becoming the first American Modern luxury accessories group. "China is irreplaceable," said Jide Zeitlin, Chairman and CEO of Tapestry, in a statement. "China is the primary driver of growth in the world economy, thanks to the complementary relationship between technological innovation and cultural empowerment. As an international exchange platform, the Expo is committed to injecting new momentum into the global economy. We look forward to working with more Chinese partners to achieve effective communication and deeper links with global consumers, thus helping China's great process of innovation and development, and writing a new chapter of more open, innovative and sustainable development together." Yann Bozec, President and CEO of Tapestry Group and Coach China, also introduced the highlights of the group's booth and shared several elements to attract the new generation of consumers: product design that combines heritage and innovation, marketing innovation that breaks the He also shared some of the key elements to attract new generation consumers: product design with heritage and innovation, and marketing innovation that breaks the usual thinking. Yann Bozec pointed out that Coach has been a pioneer in the digital field in the Chinese market, and was one of the first luxury brands to use platforms such as Weibo and WeChat for digital marketing, "We are now also active in platforms that started a little later, such as Xiaohongshu, to provide better customer service and realize the connection between online and offline. online and offline connections." Coach's cosmetics-related business is fragrance, and its fragrance business is represented and operated in China by Eternal, a leading omni-channel brand management company for beauty products. In July 2017, Eternal launched the first Coach fragrance counter on the mainland in Beijing's Hanguang Department Store, followed by sequential landings in Shanghai and other locations. At the end of 2017, Coach launched an intense fragrance for women, and in 2018 Coach focused on launching Eau de Toilette for Men and Floral Eau de Toilette. Eternal said Coach aims to enter the top five in the fragrance market share chart in 2022. During the promotional campaign on June 18th held by Chinese e-commerce platform Taobal in 2021, Eternal Group helped several brands to exceed 10 million in sales, breaking the sales records of multiple brands on the sales charts of various e-commerce platforms, and Coach even saw a year-on-year increase of over 120% in turnover in just two days from October 31 to November 1 in 2021.

  • Chinese Oral Care Brand NYSCPS Establishes Children's Product Lines

    On April 19, the oral care speciality brand "NYSCPS" announced the establishment of a new children's line "CanbanKids" on its official Weibo, which will share the stories of the bubble fungus family ("Little Half", "Little Bean", "Half Mom" and "Half Dad") from time to time, and explore the new dental world with children. NYSCPS is a Chinese brand specializing in oral care, focusing on providing all-scenario solutions for oral care, with its products covering mouthwash, toothpaste, oral spray, tooth patches, toothbrushes, etc. A product development laboratory has been set up at the Shenzhen headquarters with the brand concept of creating oral care products "more suitable for Chinese". In March 2018, NYSCPS was established with its first product series focusing on the toothpaste category. At this point, a toothpaste that is least like toothpaste has gone public. The toothpaste is presented with skincare-like bottles, playing card-like packaging boxes, and gel-like inner pastes. NYSCPS has presented a touch of colour to the daily chemical industry with new images and new presentations and also gained its first loyal users. In November 2018, it won the 2018 China Cosmetics Black Swan Rookie Brand of the Year award. In September 2020, NYSCPS launched a second category, a series of probiotic mouthwash products that quickly became the brand's star product. In the first month of its launch, it ranked second on Taobao and Tmall, with monthly sales exceeding 60 million yuan (about $9.23 million) in the second month and sales revenue of more than 100 million yuan (over $15.38 million) in 80 days, ranking first in sales in the same category of Taobao, Tmall and Pinduoduo from the third month. The year 2021 was seeing a mixed picture. As of December 2021, NYSCPS settled in more than 100,000 offline outlets, covering channels including Walmart, Hema, Vanguard, YH, mannings, LAWSON, FamilyMart, 7-11, Bian Li Feng, Hai Wang Xing Chen, and so on. In June 2021, NYSCPS achieved a single month of omnichannel sales of more than 100 million yuan (over $15.38 million). NYSCPS’s star product "Probiotics Mouthwash" exceeded 20 million in sales volume in 2021. In November 2021, NYSCPS became the only oral care brand selected for the 50 List Report on KPMG China New Domestic Goods. In December 2021, NYSCPS became the only domestic brand selected in the field of personal protection in the 2021 List of China New Consumption Development Insight and Brand Power released by EqualOcean Think Tank. In addition, with its super popularity, it was selected for the "New Brand of the Year" of the 2021 Golden Makeup Award on Tmall. As we all know, the Gold Makeup Award on Tmall is known as the most authoritative "Beauty Oscar", which has always attracted much attention from the industry. Being able to be selected for the Gold Makeup Award on Tmall is a very great achievement for the brand. In addition to outstanding performance, NYSCPS has also made great efforts in brand marketing. NYSCPS has reached cooperation with four celebrities with huge followings on social media in about half a year. In April 2021, NYSCPS announced Zhao Lusi, a popular actress with more than 50 million fans on all social media platforms, as its spokesperson. On May 19, 2021, NYSCPS announced that Li Daikun and Huang Youming became their ambassadors. On October 25, 2021, it announced that the Chinese male artist Wang Linkai became the oral spokesperson and after the release, it became a hot topic on Weibo, ranking third on Weibo trending lists. The bright performance coupled with the huge traffic brought by the blessing of stars has also attracted the favour of capital. In 2021, NYSCPS completed three rounds of financing in succession. In February, NYSCPS received a $10 million A plus round of financing, led by Sinovation Ventures, followed by Crystal Stream and Plum Ventures. In March, NYSCPS obtained an A2 round of financing with the investor being ByteDance. In July, NYSCPS completed nearly 400 million yuan (about $61.52 million) of B round financing, led by Huaxing New Economy Fund owned by China Renaissance Capital, followed by JINGDING CAPITAL, CORNERSTONE, and ABC, with the old shareholders Sinovation Ventures and ByteDance continuing to raise bets. In addition, NYSCPS is also actively participating in the field of social responsibility and charity, maintaining a relatively positive brand image. In July 2021, NYSCPS donated a million yuan (about $150,000) worth of toiletries through the ZHENGZHOU CHARITY FEDERATION when Henan Province was hit by floods. During "International Women's Day" (March 8) in 2022, NYSCPS launched the theme activity of "Tribute to Mulan in the Epidemic" to pay tribute to the "female power" during the epidemic, and donated nearly one million units of oral care products to anti-epidemic work sites such as the Shenzhen Jinguo Volunteer Association and the Haitao Community Workstation in Haishan Street. In March 2022, when the epidemic broke out in Jilin Province, NYSCPS donated a million yuan (about $150,000) worth of toiletries through the Jilin Youth Development Foundation. The counsellor announced his cooperation with the "Baby Come Home" Volunteer Association in the same month. In collaboration with the "Baby Comes Home" volunteer association and by the dissemination of 20 million logistics cartons per year, it helps missing children find their loved ones and helps separated families reunite. Since the beginning of 2022, NYSCPS has continued to have a fierce momentum in business development, and the new product "PROBIOTICS TOOTHPASTE (MINT)" launched has been on the top 10 list of new products on " Women's Day (March 8) on TikTok ", which is also ranked first in the "Family Care and Care Explosion List" of the trending List on TikTok. According to Frost & Sullivan, an international authoritative consultancy, retail sales in China's oral care market increased from $7.629 billion in 2016 to $13.596 billion in 2020, with a compound annual growth rate of 15.5% and expected to reach $23.409 billion in 2025. It can be said that the prospects of China's oral care market are promising. Although NYSCPS has made remarkable results since its four-year establishment in the oral care market, blispring, BOP, Saky, and other oral brands are also menacing and should not be taken lightly. How to maintain the momentum and stand out is also the next problem that NYSCPS has to face and think about.

  • Chinese Cosmetics Company Proya Reaps $716 million in 2021

    Chinese cosmetics company Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd sales revenue in 2021 was $716 million, a year-on-year increase of 23.47%, with the net profit attributable to shareholders of listed companies being $89.04 million, a year-on-year increase of 21.03%. On April 21, Beijing time, Chinese cosmetics company Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd released its 2021 annual report, which shows that in 2021, the company's operating income was $716 million, a year-on-year increase of 23.47%, with its net profit being $89.04 million, a year-on-year increase of 21.03%. Since 2017, its performance has maintained a medium-to-high speed growth for five consecutive years. Established in 2006, Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd is mainly engaged in the research and development, production and sales of cosmetic products. At present, the company has several brands such as PROYA, TIMAGE, Off&Relax, HAPSODE, CORRECTORS, UZERO and ANYA. Among its brands, skincare brand PROYA’s sales revenue exceeded $590 million, an increase of 28% compared with the same period last year, accounting for 82.87% of total revenue. The revenue of cosmetics brand TIMAGE reached $38 million, an increase of 103.48% over the same period last year, accounting for 5.33% of the total revenue. It is worth mentioning that in this annual report, data related to product R&D such as PROYA R&D expenditure and R&D the table about personnel data are also released. Among them, there are 159 R&D personnel, accounting for 5.59% of the company's total number of employees. The R&D expenses in 2021 were $11.8086 million, an increase of $675,400 over the same period of the previous year. In addition to the increasing research and development expenses, PROYA has done a lot of work in integrating scientific research strengths and increasing the layout of innovative raw materials. In technical cooperation with scientific research institutions and raw material manufacturers such as the Institute of Microbiology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Ashland, BSF, LipoTrue, DSMUPFO-BioTech, UPFO-BioTech and other scientific research institutions and raw material manufacturers. PROYA has recently cooperated with ZHEJIANG PEPTITIDES BIOLOGICAL CO., LTD, China's only national high-level "specialized, refined and innovative" little giant① polypeptide manufacturer, signed a strategic cooperation agreement. In the future, PROYA will cooperate with ZHEJIANG PEPTITIDES BIOLOGICAL CO., LTD in many fields such as innovative peptide research and development, peptide green synthesis, raw material production and supply, integrating scientific research strength, and increasing the layout of innovative raw materials. It is reported that in addition to ZHEJIANG PEPTITIDES BIOLOGICAL CO., LTD, PROYA also plans to launch breakthrough cooperation with more raw material suppliers and scientific research institutions to break the industrial monopoly of foreign (other than China) cosmetic raw materials. The core of cosmetics is raw materials and the core raw materials of cosmetics are the "chips" of the cosmetics industry. In the rankings of cosmetic raw materials, European and American countries are still the first, the second is Japan, and the third are South Korea and China. Oils, emulsifiers, functional powders and others are monopolized by more than 90% of foreign companies and active substances, humectants, preservatives, essential oils and others are monopolized by 75% of foreign companies. However, under China's current new supervision and new requirements, China's cosmetic raw materials will usher in an opportunity and change. This is the first time that cosmetic innovation has risen to China's national strategic position. A series of policies of the National Medical Products Administration has provided the necessary environment for innovation. Given the necessary environment, China's innovative raw materials will enter a very rapid development stage. The technological innovation of raw materials, safety evaluation, standardized publicity of product efficacy, these series of measures are all necessary environments for China's raw materials to break through. Definition: ① "Specialized and Innovative" Little Giants: Specialized, refined, and innovative SMEs refer to Chinese SMEs that have achieved specialization, refinement, specialization, and outstanding innovation capabilities. The "Little Giant" enterprise is a leader among specialized, special and new small and medium-sized enterprises. It is a Chinese enterprise that focuses on market segments, which has strong innovation ability, high market share, masters key core technologies and excellent quality and efficiency.

  • Recombinant Humanized Collagen Established as Chinese Industry Standard

    Recombinant Humanized Collagen is established as a standard in the medical device industry, the Guidelines on Recombinant Collagen Biomaterial ...... Chinese regulators attach great importance to the innovative development of the recombinant collagen industry. Since 2021, Chinese regulatory authorities have successively issued a series of documents to divide a clear sector for the collagen industry. On April 22, Beijing time (the following occurrence times are Beijing time), the National Medical Products Administration issued a notice on the establishment of the industry standard for medical devices Recombinant Humanized Collagen. The notice said that to encourage the R&D and the innovation of new biomaterials of the recombinant humanized collagen and promote the high-quality development of China's medical device industry, combined with the need for industrial development and regulatory work, after research. The National Medical Products Administration approved the revision of standards on the Recombinant Humanized Collagen in the medical device industry. Collagen is an important structural protein in human and animal tissues, widely present in tendons, ligaments, cartilage, skin and other connective tissues, is the most abundant and widely distributed functional protein in mammals. In recent years, with China's emphasis on the field of biomaterials, collagen basic research and application development have attracted much attention. The innovative medical products based on human-derived recombinant collagen present huge market potential. According to GrandView Research, China reached about $972 million in the size of the collagen market in 2019, accounting for 6.40% of the global market. It is estimated that China's collagen market will reach $3.067 billion in 2027, accounting for 6.96% of the global market. The overall market size of collagen in China is growing faster than that of the world. China's research and industrialization in the field of recombinant collagen is at the forefront of the world, and has initially achieved large-scale production and has been applied to many fields such as medical devices and cosmetics. It is worth noting that the naming principle of some listed product names in China is not uniform, such as the terms used in product names such as "humanoid collagen", "yeast recombinant collagen", "medical recombinant human collagen", "medical type III collagen" and so on. On March 15, 2021, the National Medical Products Administration issued the Guidelines for the Naming of Recombinant Collagen Biomaterials, which is used to guide the naming of recombinant collagen biomaterials in the field of medical devices in China. As a result, recombinant collagen is divided into three categories: recombinant human collagen, recombinant humanized collagen, and recombinant collagen, which further standardizes the naming of recombinant collagen biomaterials in China. Recombinant collagen has good biological properties, degradability, and other characteristics, as a raw material used in medicine, cosmetics, and other fields. Are our skincare products containing recombinant collagen a medical device or a cosmetic product? As more and more recombinant collagen products are available, the classification and definition of medical products containing recombinant collagen have attracted public attention. On April 15, 2021, the National Medical Products Administration issued the Principles for the Classification and Definition of Recombinant Collagen Medical Products, which clarifies the management attributes and management category determination basis for recombinant collagen medical products and provides guiding documents for the classification and definition of recombinant collagen medical products and the compliance of innovative product research and development. On January 18, 2022, the National Medical Products Administration released the industry standard of YY/T 1849-2022 Recombinant Collagen. The standard stipulates the quality control requirements, testing indicators, and detection methods of recombinant collagen in China, applying to the quality control of recombinant collagen as the raw material of medical devices in China, which will be officially implemented on August 1, 2022. With the promulgation and landing of new regulations on China's recombinant collagen industry one by one, it means that China has tightened the policy supervision of the "recombinant collagen" market with many unqualified commodities and enterprises in the market being doomed to disappear.

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