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- Reposition! Atelier Cologne Focus on Asia Market
According to Fashion network, Atelier Cologne, a high-end perfume brand of L'Oreal Group, released a new brand remodeling strategy and said that it would focus on the Asian market in the short to medium term. "In recent years Atelier Cologne has grown considerably in Asia, mainly in China where we are also present on T-Mall," says Philippine Lesieur, marketing director of Atelier Cologne. He added that the brand currently has 20 sales points in the world, including Asia and the Middle East. This year, Atelier Cologne also opened a new store in Guangzhou. According to reports, at the beginning of this year, Atelier Cologne launched a series of special perfume called the Rare collection. This series of perfume liberated themselves from citrus perfume and launched woody, sandalwood or oud-based perfumes. The smell seems to be designed specifically for the Asian market. The latest product is 'Encens Celeste", a blend of incense, bergamot and rockrose, priced at 103 euros for 30ml. Atelier Cologne was founded in 2006 and acquired by L'Oreal Group in 2016. Sylvie Ganter said: “We are delighted to benefit from the Group's retail and digital expertise and L'Oréal Luxe's olfactory expertise to make the brand even more successful.“ In 2017, L'Oreal Group opened its first Atelier Cologne store in mainland China. At the end of 2018, Atelier Cologne signed Jay Chou as the first spokesman in mainland China. In January 2019, Atelier Cologne entered Tmall and started online sales. Atelier Cologne announced at the beginning of 2022 that it would withdraw from the North American market, no longer sell products in any stores or retailers, and its e-commerce channels would no longer provide goods to the region. In its local market France, Atelier Cologne closed its store in Marais in September last year and currently only operates in La Samaritaine. It is worth mentioning that in October this year, L’Oreal creates Luxe Fragrance Brands department. It is reported that perfume includes six brands: Maison Margiela, Atelier Cologne, Viktor & Rolf, Azzaro, Diesel and Cacharel. Sandrine Groslier, the new president of the department, said that the goal of establishing the new department is to make its perfume brand achieve more stable and sustainable growth in the context of the rise of the global fragrance industry. Source:FASHION NETWORK、WWD
- Dr. Arrivo Was Fined 1.5 Million Yuan for Quality Problems
In the face of this 20 billion yuan market, the industry standards and market supervision related to beauty instruments need to be gradually improved. Recently, according to many media reports, Walibao (Shanghai) Beauty Instrument Co., Ltd. was fined and confiscated more than 1.5 million yuan (2107500 dollars) for selling Dr. Arrivo Ghost PRIMIUM, which does not meet the national standards for protecting human health and personal and property safety. Dr. Arrivo was founded in 2010 and officially entered the Chinese Mainland market in August 2018. CHAILEEDO learned that Dr. Arrivo participated in Tmall's Double 11 activity for the first time, which ranked the top 3 in the sales list of beauty salons, and still ranks the top 10 in the sales list of Tmall's Double 11 in this field. In addition, according to Mktindex data, Dr. Arrivo ranked No. 8 in the list of beauty and body care instruments with 2.1% of sales in this year's Tmall Double 11 event. The unqualified product of Dr. Arrivo this time is the Phantom Beauty Instrument of its flagship brand series. According to public information, the Phantom of Zeus series beauty instrument was sold at the beginning of 2020 at a price of 6829 yuan (959.4 dollars). Dr. Arrivo's official Tmall flagship store has 191,000 fans. Compared to other overseas flagship stores, Dr. Arrivo's official Tmall flagship store sells a small number of products, only one beauty instrument, Dr. Arrivo Zeus II, and a variety of skincare products. According to its Tmall flagship store, its main Dr. Arrivo Zeus II is priced at 9,888 yuan ($1,389.2), the same price as its overseas flagship store, while the rest of the several beauty instrument products sold in the overseas flagship store range from 2,500 yuan ($351.2) to 15,000 yuan ($2,108). In both the overseas flagship store and the official Tmall flagship store, the above-mentioned Dr. Arrivo products involved in the case were not searched. In addition, in March this year, the State Drug Administration issued an announcement clearly indicating that radiofrequency therapy instrument, and radiofrequency skin therapy instrument can be managed as three types of medical devices, the product according to the Medical Devices Registration Administration Method provisions to apply for registration. The announcement also pointed out that since April 1, 2024, radiofrequency therapy instrument, and radiofrequency skin therapy instrument products without medical device registration certificate according to law shall not be produced, imported and sold. According to CHAIEEDO data, from 2014 to 2019, the average annual compound growth rate of China's beauty instrument market size reached 27%, and it is estimated that by 2026, China's household beauty instrument market size will exceed 20 billion yuan (2.81 billion dollars). In the face of this 20 billion yuan market, the relevant industry standards and market supervision of beauty instruments need to be gradually improved, so that the household beauty instrument market can have greater growth and better development.
- Global Beauty Top10 Sales Totaled $114.277 Bn the First Nine Months
In the past three years, viewing the top 10 global beauty rankings, L'Oreal remains firmly in the first place and the second and third have been occupied by Estee Lauder and Unilever in turn, while Natura & Co, LVMH and Beiersdorf have been in the last four ranks "vying" for a higher position. With the disclosure of Shiseido's latest earnings report recently, the world's major cosmetic groups have handed in the first three-quarters of this year's report card. From January to September 2022, what new pattern does the global beauty group present in the case of repeated epidemics, the international political and economic environment turbulence? The global Top 10 are competing CHAILEEDO found that the top 10 global beauty companies achieved sales totaling $114.28 billion from January to September this year, an increase of $7.48 billion or 6.6 percentage points over the same period last year ($106.8 billion). According to the data from the National Bureau of Statistics in 2021, the retail sales of cosmetics is 402.6 billion yuan (about $56.4 billion), the global top 10 is equivalent to 2 Chinese markets. The retail sales of cosmetics in China from January to September this year were only 277.4 billion yuan (about $38.9 billion). In terms of the ranking of the top 10 global beauty, L'Oreal remains firmly in first place with cosmetics sales of more than $28.6 billion, followed by Unilever with sales of $19.61 billion. Estee Lauder's sale was $11.74 billion, ranking third. The fourth to sixth place is taken by Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble and Colgate. The last four are: LVMH, Beiersdorf, Shiseido and Natura & Co. Looking through the ranking of the top 10 global beauty companies in the past three years, CHAILEEDO found that the companies have not changed on the list, but the ranking has changed. First of all, L'Oréal has been in first place and the second and third places is occupied by Estée Lauder and Unilever, which take turns to compete for the second place. In 2020, Unilever ranked second. It was overtaken by Estee Lauder in third place last year. However, in the first three quarters of this year, Unilever returned to second place. Overall, the pattern of the top three global beauty players is basically set. Natura & Co, LVMH and Beiersdorf have been in the last four places for a higher position. It is worth noting that Johnson & Johnson has risen more significantly in the past two years, from seventh place in 2020 to fourth place last year. Johnson & Johnson also maintained this ranking in the first three quarters of this year. This year, Johnson & Johnson spun off its consumer health business and named the new company Kenvue. the new company will focus on iconic brands such as Johnson & Johnson Baby, Aveeno, Band-Aid, Listerine, Neutrogena, and Dr.Ci:Labo for an independent going list. In addition, LVMH's performance is outstanding. The group was at the bottom of the ranking in 2020. Last year, it rose to ninth. This year, it again rose two places to rank seventh. There are ups and downs. While Johnson & Johnson and LVMH rose in the rankings, Shiseido began to decline. In 2020, Shiseido was in sixth place, however, it fell to eighth place last year. In the first three quarters of this year, it fell again to ninth. Natura&Co has experienced a process of rising and then falling, rising from seventh in the previous year to sixth last year, and then temporarily at the bottom in the first three quarters of this year. Compared to last year, the first three-quarters of this year's top ten rankings, Johnson & Johnson, P&G and Colgate did not change. This shows that, in addition to the firm leading position of L'Oreal, the other nine companies have new changes in the ranking. The major beauty groups staged a competitive race. Performance of many companies out of expectation The actual change in ranking is the "barometer" of business performance. In the first three quarters of this year, a total of six companies among the top ten beauty companies recorded growth. Sales growth of LVMH, Beiersdorf, L'Oreal ranked the top three, respectively, at 19.73%, 17.24% and 12%. In addition, Unilever, P&G, Shiseido received a slight increase of less than 10%. Estee Lauder, Johnson & Johnson, Colgate, Natura & Co recorded a decline in performance. Among them, Natura & Co decline at the highest rate of 9%. Because of this, the company also slipped from last year's ranking of seventh to this year's ranking at the bottom. Not only did sales decline, but in the first three quarters of this year, Natura & Co posted a net loss of 2.758 billion yuan (about $387 million), down a whopping 658.7% year-over-year. The financial report shows that in Natura & Co's four brands Natura & Co Latam, Avon Global, The Body Shop, and Aesop, only Aesop net income recorded positive growth. Among the six companies that recorded growth, LVMH performed the best. In this regard, LVMH mentioned in its earnings report, Dior and Guerlain performed particularly well, with the former maintaining high growth with classic fragrance products such as Sauvage, J’adore and Christion Dior while Guerlain benefited from the growth of Abeille Royale skincare line, its Aqua Allegoria collection. It is worth mentioning that in the first round of pre-sale of this year's Chinese Double 11 Shopping Festival, Guerlain's above two series of products were sold out in seconds when they are selling in Li Jiaqi's live broadcast, with more than 700,000 people buying. In fact, the perfume category has now become an important engine of growth for major global cosmetics companies. For example, Estee Lauder Group said that in the fiscal year 2022, the group's net sales grew in each region and each perfume brand. In the first half of L'Oreal's financial results, its perfume category has also achieved 35% growth in performance, which is more than twice the growth rate of the group's overall performance. Beiersdorf, which had the second-highest sales growth rate in the first three quarters of this year, benefited from its four brands, Nivea, Eucerin, Aquaphor, and La Prairie, which recorded organic sales growth of 10.8%, 25.3%, 25.3% and 5.5%, respectively. Korean cosmetic falls out Although there are ups and downs in the performance of the top 10 global beauty companies, it is still the European and American companies that are more resilient in terms of global cosmetics, while Japanese and Korean companies are beginning to fade. At present, only one company from Asia, Shiseido is left on the top 10 list. But in fact, before 2018, Amore Pacific and Kao had been on the stage of the global beauty top ten. However, after 2019, there is no longer figure for these companies. Korean makeup in particular has dropped off significantly. As illustrated by recent earnings reports, LG reported sales of 17.5 billion yuan (about $2.46 billion) in its cosmetics/home and personal care business in the first three quarters of this year, down 20.4% year-on-year. Amore Pacific is not optimistic either, as the group reported revenue of 15.526 billion yuan (about $2.18 billion), down 13.9% year-on-year, and operating profit of 810 million yuan (about $113.6 million), down 50.5%. The decline of Korean cosmetics, on the one hand, is related to the THAAD in 2016, which made the once-popular Korean culture suddenly cool down. More importantly, after the rise of international brands and Chinese local brands, the core advantages of Korean product updates and marketing have also weakened a lot. Global growth depends on China Global cosmetics growth depends on China. From public information, China is currently the largest overseas market for L'Oreal, Shiseido, Estee Lauder and many other companies, the rise and fall of the Chinese market, to a large extent, determine the overall performance of most international companies. On the whole, L'Oreal, Beiersdorf, LVMH, Unilever have grown in China or Asia Pacific. Specific to the performance of each, L'Oréal Group said in the third quarter of this year, despite the severe situation of the sanitary control and travel restrictions, L'Oréal still achieved double-digit growth in the Chinese market, while the L'Oréal group as a whole also achieved a 12% growth in performance. Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oreal said that Mainland China has maintained strong quarterly growth over the past two years. For two years, L'Oréal China has maintained a very high growth rate, with third-quarter sales up 42.8% compared to the same period in 2019. In China, L'Oréal's Premium Cosmetics division performed particularly well, continuing to lead the market with double-digit growth, with Lancôme and HR as the main growth engines." Moreover, Beiersdorf also said that La Prairie's growth was mainly due to a slowdown in the travel blockade in the third quarter, with strong growth in China while the group's Nivea also achieved significant growth in the region. Some of the beauty companies whose performance was under pressure were also due to the larger impact of the Chinese market. Estee Lauder Group said that external pressures such as epidemic restrictions in China, high global inflation and the strong U.S. dollar affected the company's earnings. In the first three quarters of this year, Shiseido's sales in China were 8.52 billion yuan, down 9.9% year-on-year, and Shiseido's overall results were up only 4.7%. LG earnings report pointed out that the third quarter was mainly affected by the unfavorable travel retail and operating environment in China, resulting in continued sluggish performance. Amore Pacific, on the other hand, said that "revenue in China fell 40% in the third quarter due to the restructuring of offline channels for major brands and a slowdown in cosmetics consumption." In the past January-October, the overall Chinese cosmetics market was sluggish. According to the National Bureau of Statistics, the total cosmetics category from January to October was 308.4 billion yuan (about $43.3 billion), down 2.8% year-on-year. In October, the total retail sales of the cosmetics category were 30.9 billion yuan (about $4.3 billion), down 3.7% year-on-year. In September, it also fell 3.1% year-on-year. In this context, some international beauty giants are not having a good time in China. At the same time, international companies are still reinvesting in the Chinese market. Unilever publicly revealed, "In the third quarter of this year, the growth rate of China's performance dropped by 9.3%. But China, as one of the three priority markets, will certainly be taken care of in the future." In addition, Natura &Co has also made it clear that the only brand to receive growth in performance. Aesop, is preparing to enter the Chinese market. It is understood that Aesop's first store in mainland China will open in Shanghai on November 25. Seeing that 2022 is nearing its end, the performance of the first three quarters has also laid the foundation for the full-year performance of each beauty group. Therefore, some companies have also adjusted their expectations for the full fiscal year based on the performance of the first three quarters. For example, Estee Lauder Company said it would lower its performance expectations, with net sales for the second fiscal quarter expected to fall 17% to 19% compared with the same period last year. The full-year net sales for fiscal 2023 are expected to fall 6% to 8% compared with the same period last year. From the external environment, rising raw material prices, exchange rate changes, the global situation, epidemics are common problems faced by foreign companies, but according to the rankings of the past few years, not all companies have found a way to determine growth, the global top ten pattern or a new change. Note 1: Global beauty's top 10 sales data due to exchange rate fluctuations such as conversion there is a certain error. Note 2: The data in the text comes from the financial reports of the companies. Among them, L'Oreal, Estee Lauder, Shiseido and Natura&Co are the overall business. Unilever and P&G are beauty and personal care businesses. Colgate is the oral, personal and home care products division; Johnson & Johnson is the health consumer segment. Beiersdorf is the consumer business. LVMH is a perfume and cosmetics business.
- Coty Makes Solid Efforts in Sustainability
On November 16, New York time, Coty released its FY2022 Sustainability Report, shortly after announcing the launch of its first refillable fragrance, Chloe Rose Naturelle Intense. (Credit: from Coty official website) The report outlines Coty's achievements and progress from July 2021 to June 2022, guided by its sustainability strategy of Beauty That Lasts. In this sustainability report, Coty makes its latest commitments to the environment. Such as near-term reduction targets for greenhouse gas (GHG), as well as new packaging targets, including a 50% reduction in absolute direct and indirect GHG emissions by 2030 in calendar year 2019 , and a 20% reduction in packaging material use by 2030. Just on the 14th, Coty had announced the launch of its first refillable fragrance, Chloe Rose Naturelle Intense, which it claims is the first fragrance ever to receive a C2C-certified silver-level material health certificate. An independent institution, EVEA, evaluated environmental footprint life cycle of Chloe Rose Naturelle Intense and showed that compared to five 50ml bottles, a 100ml bottle and a 150ml refill could reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 65%, water by 67%, energy by 66% and mineral resources by 75%. "Chloé stands for beautiful, meaningful products for society and the planet, and Chloé Rose Naturelle Intense perfectly embodies these Chloé stands for beautiful, meaningful products for society and the planet, and Chloé Rose Naturelle Intense perfectly embodies these values, said Constantin Sklavenitis, Chief Prestige Brands Officer at Coty. , and I am proud that this launch is another step forward in contributing to our corporate strategy of Beauty That Lasts." In fact, the United Nations continues to call on the international community to act together to achieve the Sustainable Development Goals. In response to this call, international beauty groups are making corresponding efforts in packaging, products, and corporate operations. Japanese beauty conglomerate Shiseido's brand ELIXIR launched its refillable lotion and cream set in Japan in 2012, cutting CO2 emissions by 56% over the product's entire life cycle in Japan. 2021 saw the introduction of the products to China, with claiming that using the products can reduce plastic use by 85%. Another beauty giant, L'Oreal, has also been committed to a sustainable path. In July, L'Oréal Group announced at the L'Oréal North Asia & China Indirect Sourcing Supplier Day that by 2025, all L'Oréal operating facilities will be 100% more energy efficient and use renewable energy, thereby becoming carbon neutral. By 2030, it will innovate to reduce greenhouse gases generated by consumers during the use of L'Oréal products by 25% compared to 2016. By 2030, it will allow a 50% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions related to transporting products compared to 2016. By 2030, L'Oréal's strategic suppliers will reduce their direct emissions by 50% in absolute terms compared to 2016. As you can see, sustainability has become an integral part of the future of beauty brands. Looking ahead, if beauty brands can take on the social responsibility of promoting sustainability, it may become a great plus for consumers to accept the brand.
- Total Retail Sales of Cosmetics Falls 3.7% year-on-year in October
In October, cosmetics year-on-year growth rate remains the lowest in five years. On November 15, the National Bureau of Statistics announced the retail sales data of consumer goods in October 2022. In October, the total retail sales of consumer goods was 4.0271 trillion yuan (about $569 billion), down 0.5% year-on-year. In October, the total retail sales of consumer goods (except cars) were 365.75 billion yuan (about $51.7 billion), down 0.9% year-on-year. In October, the total retail sales of cosmetics were 30.9 billion yuan (about $4.4 billion), down 3.7% year-on-year. Compared with the previous month, the total retail sales and growth rate both declined. The total cosmetics category from January to October was 308.4 billion yuan (about $43.6 billion), down 2.8% year-on-year. In a vertical comparison, the year-on-year growth rate of cosmetics in October remained the lowest in five years, showing a sharp decline after reaching a peak of 18.3% in 2020. In fact, the total retail sales growth rate of cosmetics has maintained the lowest level in five years since this year and has been negative for three consecutive months. According to data from the General Administration of Customs of the People’s Republic of China, China's beauty cosmetics and toiletries category imported 35637.7 tons in October, down 24% compared to the same period last year. Imports amounted to 15.04 billion yuan (about $2.1 billion), up 1.42% year-on-year. The first 10 months of cumulative imports of 354257.3 tons, and the same period last year's decline of 10.9%. Imports amounted to 126.08 billion yuan (about $17.8 billion), a decline of 5.2%. The Bureau of Statistics said that the current Chinese departments and regions efficiently coordinate the prevention and control of the epidemic and economic and social development, and strengthen the implementation of the initiatives to stabilize the economy. The national economy continues the recovery trend, with stable growth in industrial investment, employment and prices are generally stable. The accumulation of new momentum to enhance the protection of people's livelihood is strong and effective, and the general situation of economic and social stability. In recent times, the major listed cosmetic companies have released their third-quarter financial reports, compared to the previous "substantial growth" and "record high" good results, both multinational companies and Chinese domestic listed companies, the overall growth rate of the third-quarter slowed down significantly. Especially International brands in the Chinese market, the impact of the epidemic is more obvious. For example, although L'Oreal's revenue reached a record high in the past decade with a performance of over $27.9 billion (January-September), the growth rate of its North Asia region, where China is located, was significantly lower than other regions, with a growth of only 0.3% in the third quarter. The Chinese market of multinational companies such as Estee Lauder, Amore Pacific and Shiseido even saw a decline. Some industry practitioners believe that the cold winter in the Chinese cosmetics market will continue.
- Estee Lauder Finally Acquires Tom Ford
This is the largest acquisition in the history of Estee Lauder. (Credit: from website) Until today, after more than four months of tug-of-war, dust to dust. The ownership of TF finally acquired by Estee Lauder. From the beginning of July this year, there was news that Tom Ford was seeking a sale. As the operator of Tom Ford beauty line, Estee Lauder Company has also long held out an olive branch, while participating in the bid for the TF designer's previous owner, Kering Group. Just last week, according to the Wall Street Journal and many other foreign media reports, Estee Lauder will be $2.8 billion to buy the luxury brand Tom Ford. Just today, Estee Lauder's official website announced that Estee Lauder and Tom Ford have signed an agreement for a deal that values the entire business at $2.8 billion. The amount paid by ELC for the acquisition is approximately $2.3 billion. Everything is settled According to Estee Lauder's website, Estee Lauder and Tom Ford have signed an agreement in a deal that will establish longtime Tom Ford partner Estee Lauder as the sole owner of the Tom Ford brand and all of its intellectual property. The deal values Tom Ford at approximately $2.8 billion. And after deducting the $250 million paid to Estée Lauder by eyewear maker Marcolin SpA at closing, Estée Lauder will pay $2.3 billion in the acquisition. The transaction is expected to be completed in the first half of 2023. Under the agreement, Tom Ford, founder and CEO of Tom Ford, will continue to lead the creative direction of the brand after the deal closes until the end of 2023, Estée Lauder said, adding that Domenico De Sole, chairman of Tom Ford, will continue to serve as an advisor until the same time, while Marcolin SpA will continue to work with Tom Ford Marcolin SpA will continue to operate its eyewear business in partnership with Tom Ford and has been granted an exclusive perpetual license to the brand. In addition, the deal will extend the long-term relationship between the Tom Ford and clothing brand Ermenegildo Zegna NV, including a long-term license for all men's and women's fashion as well as accessories and products. Estée Lauder and Ermenegildo Zegna NV will work closely together on creative direction to continue to strengthen the Tom Ford brand's luxury positioning. As a beauty brand that Estée Lauder has been operating, this strategic acquisition will also support Tom Ford Beauty in achieving higher levels of growth in key markets across the global luxury and online channels. In its fiscal year ending June 30, 2022, Tom Ford Beauty achieved nearly 25 percent growth in net sales, and Estée Lauder forecasts that Tom Ford Beauty will achieve annual net sales of $1 billion over the next several years. Tom Ford states, "I could not be happier with this acquisition as The Estée Lauder Companies is the ideal home for the brand. They have been an extraordinary partner from the first day of my creation of the company and I am thrilled to see them become the luxury stewards in this next chapter of the TOM FORD brand. Ermenegildo Zegna and Marcolin have been spectacular long-standing partners as well and I am happy to see the preservation of the great relationship that we have built over the past 16 years. With their full commitment, I trust they will continue the brand’s future as a luxury company that strives to produce only the highest quality fashion and eyewear." (Credit: Tom Ford Official Website) Estee Lauder needs Tom Ford Estée Lauder Company needs Tom Ford more than Kering Group, because Tom Ford beauty has become a pillar brand of the Estée Lauder Group and a cash cow. Take Estee Lauder Group's latest financial report as an example, in the first quarter of fiscal year 2023 (July to September 2022), Estee Lauder Group's total net sales were $3.93 billion, down 11% year-on-year, with organic sales down 5%. Its net profit also fell 29.33% year-on-year to $489 million . However, Tom Ford fragrances achieved double-digit growth, with both new fragrances and classic fragrances performing outstandingly. Together with the boost from fragrance brands such as Le Labo and Jo Malone, net sales of the entire fragrance segment were $607 million, the same as the same period last year. In the case of the group's overall unsatisfactory performance, Tom Ford Beauty can still bring good performance growth to Estee Lauder Company, which also shows its important position within Estee Lauder Company. The continuous product pushing new products also shows that Estee Lauder Company has put a lot of effort into it. According to Estee Lauder's website, this includes strong double-digit growth in compound annual net sales from 2012 to 2022. For Estee Lauder Company fiscal year ending June 30, 2022, Tom Ford Beauty achieved net sales growth of nearly 25 percent. In addition, Tom Ford Beauty also performed very well in China, with a number of its products on the best-selling list. According to the Tmall Double 11 list, Tom Ford ranked No. 4 in the fragrance industry and No. 14 in the color cosmetics industry. In the latest Tmall best-selling list, a number of products such as TF limited four-shade eyeshadow, TF classic lipstick, TF loose powder ranked in the top 5 in the segment list. (Credit: Tom Ford Official) What's the purpose of acquisition? According to Ariel OHANA, co-managing partner of OHANA & Co. in an interview with CHAILEEDO, there are two purposes for beauty companies to acquire brands. One is to expand the product category range of the company, and the other is to expand the local market share. Before acquiring a series of high-end skincare, color cosmetics and toiletries brands, Unilever was almost absent in the high-end beauty market. For example, in June 2017, the acquisition of Hourglass, a high-end U.S. makeup brand, was Unilever's first foray into color cosmetics. As the pace of acquisitions continued to move forward, Unilever's sales for the full year 2018 began to rise and net profit rose 50.8% year-on-year . Unilever's Beauty & Personal Care division generated 0.9% sales growth in 2019 through new brands acquired. The acquisition included French drugstore Garancia, Japanese premium skincare Lenor Japan and Tatcha, a modern skincare brand rooted in the traditional Kyoto way of beauty. thus, Unilever's acquisitions of beauty, skincare and toiletries brands have been quite effective in bringing growth to Unilever. Another acquisition was the announcement by USHOPAL, a Chinese high-end beauty group, to acquire the British luxury care brand ARgENTUM, which was reportedly awarded the Positive Luxury certification by the global luxury industry together with very few other brands such as LV, Guerlain and La Mer, and together with ARgENTUM's first "star product" - "la potion infinie" - has won a number of luxury beauty awards, including BAZAAR. The first "star product" of ARgENTUM - "la potion infinie", has gained a group of loyal and faithful celebrity users, including Hollywood stars such as James Bond's Daniel Craig, The Avengers' Chris Hemsworth, Suicide Squad's Margot Robbie, Batman's Ben Affleck and others. USHOPAL officials said. "Through this acquisition, USHOPAL's experience in creating luxury beauty products, its accumulated technology and formula patents, global top ingredients, formula reserves and supply network will further improve USHOPAL Group's high-end beauty branding, R&D and supply chain capabilities. This is an important step for USHOPAL to move beyond China to the world and grow into a 'new luxury beauty group'." USHOPAL's acquisition of ARgENTUM shows that USHOPAL's move may be aimed at expanding into international markets. (Credit: from Website) From the performance of the first three quarters of this year, Estee Lauder Company's overall performance is still under pressure. Sanitary restriction and inflationary pressure still affect the beauty giant, which explains why the Estee Lauder Group is spending heavily on acquiring Tom Ford, partnering with Balmain Beauty, and adjusting its brand clusters. It needs a stable and energetic brand face to meet the challenges and expand its commercial footprint. Some industry insiders also said that this move by Estee Lauder Company, which has never been involved in businesses such as ready-to-wear and handbag accessories, may positioned itself as a luxury giant on par with the likes of LVMH and Kering Group. (Source: Estee Lauder’s Official Website) If there is any infringement, please contact us to delete it.
- Licencing Deals, Estee Lauder Getting Close to Tom Ford
Quote Bloomberg, Tom Ford transaction could be announced as soon as Tuesday(Tomorrow). (Credit: Website) It has been reported since early July that Tom Ford is looking for a sale. Estee Lauder is a long-term licensee to the brand's beauty and fragrance products, and has been in communication with Tom Ford for a long time. Also in the running is Kering Group, which even last week, the Wall Street Journal said, citing sources familiar with the matter, was then in talks with Tom Ford about a takeover. The negotiation advantage ahead of Estee Lauder. However, the latest news is that Estee Lauder Group finally won, offering $2.8 billion, beating out many bidders, including Kering Group. It also means that Tom Ford's fine apparel and accessories business will also be integrated into the Estee Lauder Group. The deal could be announced as early as tomorrow, Bloomberg reported. This transaction will also become the largest one in the history of Estee Lauder Group, surpassing the increase of its holding of DECIEM, the parent company of The Ordinariy, by 1 billion dollars in 2021. With the net sales of Estee Lauder falling by 11% in the first quarter of fiscal year 2023, Tom Ford perfume achieved double-digit growth, and new perfume and classic perfume both showed outstanding performance. Although some insiders speculate that the acquisition of Tom Ford brand will be the beginning of Estee Lauder's further march into the fashion industry and development of luxury product line, there is no doubt that the overall focus of Estee Lauder Group is still beauty and skin care. This is also evidenced by the cooperation between Estee Lauder Group and Balmain, a French luxury brand. On September 26, Estee Lauder officially announced that it had signed a contract with Balmain Balman to jointly develop, produce and distribute a series of beauty products. According to the official website of Estee Lauder, the beauty product jointly launched by Estee Lauder and Balmain is named "Balmain Beauty" and is expected to launch the first beauty line in the autumn of 2024. In the organizational structure updated by Estee Lauder in September, Balmain Beauty and Tom Ford Beauty may form a new growth pole of perfume of Estee Lauder Group together. Guillaume Jesel, President of Tom Ford Beauty Global Brand, was appointed as the Global President of Tom Ford Beauty, Balmain Beauty, and Luxury Business on the official announcement day of Balmain Beauty, and was responsible for the overall strategic direction of the two brands in the future. Its beauty range is believed to have performed especially well in China, a key growth market for both businesses. Source: Bloomberg If there is any infringement, please contact us to delete it.
- New Strategy of Shiseido in 150th Anniversary for Better Future in China
Today, Shiseido Group's 150th Anniversary China Reception was held simultaneously in Shanghai and online. After 41 years in China, China has become the engine of growth for the Shiseido Group, but it is also facing a growth bottleneck. Standing at the 150th anniversary historical point, how will Shiseido invest in China and win itself? And what new trends in the industry will be revealed next year? Shiseido to add oral beauty business segment in 2023 China's oral beauty market is experiencing a period of rapid growth. Tmall Global data shows that the turnover of oral beauty products increased 2,266% year-on-year during Chinese 618 Shopping Festival in 2022. Market data released by Straits Research shows that the global oral beauty market size will grow from $7.343 billion in 2021 to $15.816 billion in 2030, with a CAGR of 9%. Among them, Asia Pacific ranks first in the global market share of oral beauty products, with Japan forecast to hold 31% market share in 2022, while China's oral beauty market is expected to reach 28% of the global market by 2022 and is expected to become the second largest oral beauty market in Asia Pacific. In line with this trend, Shiseido will also bet on the oral beauty market in the future. Lai Peiyun, Head of Oral Beauty Division, Shiseido China said that China's oral beauty market will enter a period of rapid development, and the market size can reach nearly 26 billion yuan in 2025. Sheseido will establish a global oral beauty business unit in 2023, oral beauty will become the Shiseido Group's third largest category expect its skincare and color cosmetics. In addition, Shiseido's INRYU was launched in China and Japan simultaneously. After the launch, it received a lot of positive reviews from anonymous consumers, saying that the good effect of skin elasticity firming and lightning of wrinkles fine lines. Lai Peiyun said “Shiseido currently has 10 oral beauty brands in Japan, and will focus on China in the future to expand its oral beauty business to the world.” At the meeting, Shiseido also said that although it had not previously been very profoundly established in new areas, it is trying to develop the beauty solutions such as uh medical beauty or beauty device or inner beauty. It is worth noting that in August, Shiseido invested in Chinese company Trautec, which focuses on recombinant collagen biomaterials. At the reception, Shiseido and Trautec officially signed a strategic cooperation agreement on medical aesthetics. This move also reflects Shiseido's determination to explore the medical beauty series. Strong development of green and sustainable roads Moreover, in the context of the "double carbon" target, Shiseido will also inject green power into its development in China. Kentaro Fujiwara revealed that Shiseido China has decided to gradually increase the promotion of replacement packs, and it is expected that more than 150 individual products will be available for Chinese consumers in 2023. Many products that are loved by consumers will be launched with replacement pack options. Shiseido China also held a signing ceremony with Alibaba to promote the strategic cooperation of replacement packs. Another beauty group, P&G, also adheres to a sustainable path. In the 2021 China International Import Expo, P&G has developed its own, innovative green e-commerce packaging, the "Air Capsule". It is made of 100% single recyclable material, using 0 cost 0 waste air as the core resource, replacing the combination of cardboard boxes plus filling protection. This year, P&G upgraded the "air capsule" in terms of material, structure and size, adding recycled plastic PCR to the materials used in production, which can be widely used in e-commerce packaging for toiletries, perfumes, cosmetics, razors, cell phones, electric toothbrushes, jewelry and accessories, health care products, pharmaceuticals, apparel, etc. It is more environmentally friendly and convenient. Shiseido Sprint 1-trillion-yen target next year again In addition to investing in the Trautec, Shiseido will also build the second largest R&D center in the world in China, with the aim of incubating local innovation and accelerating open source innovation. In September 2022, L'Oréal China announced that its subsidiary Shanghai Meicifang Investment Co. In October 2022, the foundation of L'Oréal Suzhou Intelligent Operation Center was officially laid. Unilever's high-end beauty division also set up a joint venture, GoUni, with Hangzhou Golong Holdings Co. to jointly promote a team of local up-and-coming high-end beauty brands. It can be seen that international beauty groups still believe that the Chinese beauty market has great potential. As L'Oréal North Asia President and CEO of China, Fabrice, has said, "Competition is driving higher quality product innovation, which is good for consumers and the market. In China, the beauty market still has a lot of potential, which means that we don't need to compete fiercely with our peers, but rather we all work together to provide better beauty products to consumers, thus contributing to the market's continued growth." Looking back on its journey in China, Shiseido said, Shiseido in China has changed from coming to China to invest to today investing in China. Shiseido has gone from introducing other international products to China at the beginning and then localizing them, to exporting innovation, finall it participates in local innovation. Shiseido said that this series of actions reflect the importance of the Chinese market to Shiseido. The incoming new CEO of Shiseido China, Masahiko Uotani, said that he will continue to work hard to deepen the Chinese market and set new heights.
- Parent company of Lesening Gains $86.6M in H1 of 2022
Recently, the parent company of Lesening Chongqing Dencare Oral Care Products Company Limited (hereinafter referred to as Dencare) updated its prospectus data. It had received feedback from the China Securities Regulatory Commission on its prospectus. The prospectus shows that the business income of Dencare mainly comes from the sale of toothpaste, toothbrushes, mouthwash and other oral cleaning care products, currently has a well-known brand of oral care Dencare, Lesening, as well as high-end professional oral care brand Medpair, the children's oral care brand Beilele, and the high-end baby oral care brand Mengya, and the main products cover toothpaste, toothbrush, mouthwash and other oral cleaning care products. Previously, the Shenzhen Stock Exchange had issued feedback on the application documents for the initial public offering of Dencare, with a total of 31 feedback on two categories of regulatory issues and disclosure issues. This time, Dencare also supplemented the prospectus in response to the feedback. In addition, Dencare also updated its latest financial data, with operating revenues of 944 million yuan (about $133.9 million), 1.03 billion yuan (about $ 146.1 million), 1.143 billion yuan (about $162.1 million) and 611 million yuan (about $86.6 million) for FY2019, FY2020, FY2021 and January-June 2022, respectively, still maintaining growth. In terms of specific businesses, Dencare adult toothpaste business is still its main source of revenue, with revenue of 486 million yuan (about $68.9 million) in the first half of this year, accounting for 79.76% of total revenue. The total revenue of adult toothbrush business is 64.7535 million yuan (about $9.2 million), accounting for 10.62% of total revenue. Overall, the market share is steadily increasing. Children's basic oral care products, which accounted for a relatively small share of total revenue in the first half of the year, amounted to 48.792 million yuan (about $6.9 million), accounting for 8% of total revenue. However, the unit sales price of children's toothpaste decreased by 4.52% in the first half of the year compared with FY2021, mainly due to the increase in the proportion of sales of the Company's children's toothpaste sets and promotional pack products. In terms of specific business channels, the distribution model is still the main source of revenue for Dencare. Although with the continuous expansion of e-commerce channels, the proportion of total revenue accounted for by this model has been decreasing since 2019. In the first half of this year, the total revenue of the distribution model was 474 million yuan (about $67.2 million), accounting for 77.7% of the total revenue. The proportion of the e-commerce model in the total revenue increased from 13.17% in 2021 to 17.32% in the first half of this year recorded 106 million yuan (about $15 million). According to the prospectus, the funds raised will be used for an intelligent manufacturing upgrade construction project, an omnichannel marketing network upgrade and brand promotion construction project, an oral health research center construction project and a digital management platform construction project.
- Chinese GMPC to Implement in December
On October 25, the National Medical Products Administration released the Inspection Points and Judgment Principles of the Cosmetic Manufacturing Quality Management Practice (hereinafter referred to as "Inspection Points").
- International Beauty Brands Occupies Rankings During Double 11
International beauty brands occupy 8 ranks in the Top 10 beauty category of the Tmall Double 11 beauty store sales list this year. International beauty brands still occupy 8 places in the Top10 beauty brands of TikTok China Double 11. Double 11 Shopping Festival is one of the biggest online promotion days in China. In the past, the Double 11 was the time when major innovative beauty brands became famous every year. However, in terms of data from major platforms, CHAILEEDO found that international beauty brands occupy most rankings in this year's Double 11. Tmall remained flat year-on-year First of all, from the overall economy, Tmall stated that this year's Tmall Double 11 is steady to good, the transaction scale is the same as last year. JD also didn’t reveal its GMV. It just said "The 2022 JD Double 11 surpassed the industry growth rate and set a new record." Last year, the cumulative turnover of Tmall Double 11 was 540.3 billion yuan (about $76.7 billion), with a year-on-year growth rate of 8.5%. JD Double 11 turnover was 311.4 billion yuan (about $44.2 billion), with a growth rate of 15 percent. CHAILEEDO data shows that the GMV of Tmall Double 11 has grown continuously since 2009. Shortened to the time dimension of the last 5 years, the growth rate of Tmall Double 11 GMV began to slow down, especially in 2020 after growing 85.6% and the volume of GMV jumped to nearly 500 billion yuan (about $71 billion), the growth rate quickly fell back to single digits in 2021. JD, on the other hand, has been maintaining a growth rate of about 30% since the opening of Double 11 in 2017, and last year the volume has exceeded 300 billion yuan. Top 10 of international beauty brands accounted for half From this year's Tmall Double 11 beauty store sales list, the top 10 brands are L'Oreal, Estee Lauder, Lancome, OLAY, PROYA, Winona, LA MER, SK-II, HR and Shiseido. In addition, two major national brands, QuadHA and CHANDO, also entered the top 20. Compared to the previous pre-sale list, the rankings have all changed significantly. First of all, the battle of the top three, pre-sale is L'Oreal, Lancôme, Estée Lauder ranked the top three in turn. In the final list, Estée Lauder overtook Lancôme to become the runner-up, Lancôme in third place. Next, QuadHA, Guerlain, SkinCeuticals entered the top 10 in the pre-sale period and was eventually replaced by LA MER, SK-II and HR. It is worth noting that after 7 years of absence, PROYA was again on the Top 10 list and ranked 5th, the first Chinese beauty product. Winona has been on the list for 5 consecutive years, ranking 6th this year. In fact, stretched to 10 years, the Double 11 beauty brand ranking contest has experienced: 2013-2015, the 1.0 stage dominated by Chinese domestic brands, 2016-2018, the 2.0 stage where Chinese domestic and foreign brands fought each other and shared equally. Since 2019, the overall entered the oligarchic era of international brands dominating the list, while the last three years European and American brands are even stronger. Take this year's double 11 as an example, in addition to PROYA, Winona and Shiseido, the remaining seven brands are from European and American conglomerates. International brands battle on TikTok China while Whoo is No. 1 Today, winning in Tmall is still the consensus of the majority of brands, but TikTok China is also a force to be reckoned with. After Whoo, which lost in Tmall, was the first beauty brand ranked in TikTok China Double 11. Last year, the brand was also the number one beauty brand in TikTok China. The other two ranks in the top three of TikTok China Double 11 were occupied by Estee Lauder and L'Oreal. The brand composition of TikTok China double 11 beauty Top 10 is similar to that of Tmall, and there are only 2 Chinese domestic brands in the top 10 of TikTok China Double 11, which are Florasis and CHANDO. These 2 brands are in the bottom 2 rankings. And last year, on the TikTok China double 11 beauty brand Top 10 list, Chinese domestic brands and international brands accounted for five seats each. Therefore, it is easy to see from the changes in this year's list that international beauty brands, after strongly seizing the Tmall sector in the past 5 years, have started to re-invest in TikTok China in recent years and gradually squeeze the market share of Chinese domestic beauty brands. Since last year, brands of major beauty groups have been stationed in TikTok China. For example, in May 2021, L'Oreal Paris opened its first global offline flagship store in Shanghai and synchronized it with the TikTok China e-commerce platform, with a full range of beauty products online in TikTok China. In May 2022, Lancôme also announced its presence in TikTok China, opening its first brand self-published. In addition, such as Estee Lauder, Shiseido and other international beauty giant groups also successively deployment on TikTok China. As a result, beauty brands in China and international brands opened a fierce competition situation in TikTok China. From the platform point of view, although the Tmall platform is still the main battlefield for major beauty brands, but various emerging platforms such as TikTok China are still releasing huge potential. In terms of brand sales, international brands are ahead of Chinese brands, and the head aggregation effect is obvious.
- Double 11 turns cold, Chinese brands rise
After this year's Double 11, neither Tmall nor JD released GMV. (Credit: website) From 2009 to 2021, the release of GMV of Double 11 every year is important news for e-commerce platforms. According to CHAILEEDO, the total turnover of Tmall's Double 11 from 2019 to 2021 will be 268.4 billion yuan, 498.2 billion yuan, and 540.3 billion yuan respectively, and that of JD's Double 11 will be 204.4 billion yuan, 271.5 billion yuan, and 349.1 billion yuan respectively, showing an annual growth trend. JD Group said that as of 11:59 p.m. on November 11, 2022, the "JD 11.11 Global Love Season" exceeded the growth rate of the industry and created a new record. At the same time, the number of retail shopping users also achieved another success. Tmall said that this year's Tmall Double 11 was stable and good, and the transaction scale was the same as last year. Since the launch of the "Double 11" promotion activities, neither platform has announced GMV for the first time. Focusing on the cosmetics market, Syntun counts that personal beauty care cosmetics occupy the third place in the top 10 categories of the total sales of the whole network from November 10 to November 11. In the Top 10 list of top beauty and skincare sales of popular categories sold by comprehensive e-commerce across the Double 11 network, L'Oreal, Estee Lauder and Lancome firmly rank in the top three, while Chinese brands PROYA and Winona occupy the fifth and sixth places respectively. In the list of Perfume&Makeup, Chinese brand Florasis ranked second. It is worth mentioning that PROYA ranked No.1 in the transaction of domestic beauty cosmetics on Tmall, Tiktok and JD. Winona has won the top 10 of Tmall Beauty&Skin Care for 5 consecutive years. In the field of cosmetics, although the pattern of international big brands accounting for more than half of the sales list has not been broken, it is clear that domestic brands are rising. From the perspective of live broadcast, according to CHAILEEDO data, the self-broadcast sales of beauty brands accounted for 22.98%, the live broadcast times accounted for 6%, and the average conversion rate of goods delivered per session was 3.14% during the Tiktok Double 11 (10.24-11.11). At present, international brands have not released the sales data of the Double 11. Yu Huanhuan, the market leader of Tmall Global, said in an interview with Xinhua News Agency that Chinese consumers have a strong demand for cross-border imports, and overseas brands are paying more and more attention to the Double 11 and the Chinese market. This year, more than 1600 overseas brands participated in Tmall's Double 11 for the first time, bringing thousands of products. This may mean that the efforts of international brands on the Double 11 have not ended. If there is any infringement, please contact to delete.












