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  • From 2019 to 2021, the Occupying of Charlotte Tilbury in China

    In March 2019, Charlotte Tilbury will be available through one of the world's largest e-commerce platforms, Tmall International. In October 2021, Charlotte Tilbury official flagship store in Tmall will open announcing the brand's official launch in the Chinese market. "When a woman finds a makeup that suits her, she can conquer the world!" This is the famous words from the founder of the popular British makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury. This quote led to the creation of the brand and made it an easy to choose, use and gift beauty brand. Now, this collection of world-renowned makeup, skincare and fragrance products has become the beauty secret of supermodels and celebrities. It shares the power of beauty with the world by combining all the DNA of beauty in a range of beauty products. In September 2013, professional make-up artist Charlotte founded her eponymous cosmetics brand, Charlotte Tilbury. She came from an artistic family in London and lived with her parents in Ibiza, Spain as a child. Raised by artist parents, she was always passionate about beauty and had her own unique perspective. At the age of 11, she met the famous beauty artist Mary Greenwell on the beach in Ibiza. From then on, she wanted to turn her passion for beauty into a lifelong career. After the creation of the eponymous brand, Charlotte Tilbury has set an amazing record of two pieces of the same product line sold every minute due to its unique professional products and exquisite packaging. Tilbury has already become a popular beauty industry leader in Europe and overseas countries. As its fever spreads to Asia, Charlotte Tilbury has even gained more fans in the Chinese market. It was discussed and recommended on Chinese social media platforms such as Weibo and Xiaohongshu in a craze showing its popularity in China. Charlotte Tilbury has become one of the most anticipated beauty brands by Chinese consumers to enter China. In March 2019, Charlotte Tilbury is being sold through one of the world's largest e-commerce platforms, Tmall International. This move makes it easier for Chinese consumers to purchase Charlotte Tilbury's makeup products. The brand will fill a gap in the Chinese market by importing as an international makeup brand through a cross-border e-commerce model for Chinese consumers. Over the past three years, Charlotte Tilbury has been among the top high-end beauty brands loved by young consumers in Tmall International with the influence of the Tmall International platform and the brand's efforts in the Chinese market ranking top of the beauty category. Currently, Charlotte Tilbury has a total of official flagship store and overseas flagship store on Tmall with 1,151,000 followers on both two flagship stores. Most of the products in the official flagship store have a price range of $28.17-$74.33, mostly in the form of single products. The overseas flagship store, on the other hand, has a price range of $17.22-$353.69, with a wide price range because the flagship store has several product sets. For example, the eyeshadow lipstick set is sold for $109.55, the powder and spray set retails for $102.51. The most expensive is the Look of Love Secret gift set sales for $353.69. From both flagship stores, we know that powder is the better selling product in both flagship stores. In the official flagship store, the powder and lipstick set is sold 5,000+ per month and only the powder is sold 3,000+ per month. Both of them ranked in the top two in monthly sales in the official flagship store. In the overseas flagship store, the powder ranks second in the store in terms of monthly sales, with monthly sales of 4000+. On April 23, 2021, Charlotte Tilbury announced Chinese actress Tang Wei as its first global makeup spokesperson. On September 25, the brand again announced Chinese actor Liu Haoran as its global makeup spokesperson. The announcement of two global makeup spokespersons in less than six months is seen as a sign that Charlotte Tilbury wants to accelerate its share in the Chinese market. On October 8, 2021, the grand opening of Charlotte Tilbury's Tmall flagship store and the debut of the new CT Hot Lips limited series for Christmas through Tmall Little Black Box announced its official entry into the Chinese market. In addition to opening stores in Shanghai, Chengdu, Hangzhou in China, Charlotte Tilbury will also open more stores in major cities in China. The grand opening of Charlotte Tilbury in China is an milestone for the brand and Charlotte Tilbury's unlimited confidence and attention to the Chinese market is sure to continue the brand's brilliant success overseas.

  • NARS Has Two Major Responsibilities to Step up its Efforts in China

    The arrival of NARS in China contains two missions for the company. On the one hand, it signifies that the Group will focus on the development of the color cosmetics category. On the other hand, Shiseido will establish new fundamentals for the future through NARS and understand the new aspirations and fashion needed from Chinese consumers. NARS is an American professional makeup brand founded by French makeup master FRANÇOIS NARS, who specializes in using black, the most classic color with a personalized logo to express minimalist spirit of the brand. NARS is the most talked about makeup brand in the world and its eye shadows, highlighters and blushes are all must-haves for beauty lovers with celebrities such as Madonna, Sharon Stone and Jennifer Aniston among its loyal fans. French makeup master FRANÇOIS NARS has an anti-traditional makeup philosophy that encourages women to experiment and learn how to express their natural beauty and personal style while having fun with makeup. FRANÇOIS NARS believes that there are no set rules for beauty. He says, "As long as you look pleasant and comfortable, that's good." The appeal of NARS lies in having irresistible and authentic qualities: glamorous, confident, stylish and edgy. Whether you need a stylish accessory, a guilty pleasure, or a full makeup collection, NARS has something for every imaginable need and every occasion. NARS was founded in 1994 and was acquired by the Shiseido Group in 2000. Currently, it forms the luxury division of Shiseido Group with brands such as CPB and IPSA. On August 1, 2017, NARS officially entered China. In August 2018, NARS is also settled in Tmall. Currently, NARS official Tmall flagship store has a total of 3.76 million followers with 91 SKUs in the store and a product price range of $31.26 - $271.96. The highest selling product is the "Light Reflecting Setting Powder Pressed" with monthly sales of 30,000+. Among them, 4 of the products have exceeded 10,000 units. It is worth noting that high-end brands such as NARS and IPSA saw significant growth and market share expansion due to an increase in brick-and-mortar stores and the Shiseido Group increased investment in e-commerce. During the Double 11 -Chinese Shopping Festival- in 2020", the largest e-commerce promotion in China, its sales more than doubled from the previous year. As a result, the e-commerce segment accounted for more than 40% of sales in the Chinese business. On February 24, 2021, NARS also officially announced Chinese actress Zhao Liying as its ambassador. It stated that her modern and bold image are highly compatible with the NARS’ DNA and released Zhao Liying's new campaign and video for NARS makeup. As of October 28, 2021, Zhao Liying has 89,988,000 followers on Chinese social media platform Weibo. With her traffic, the brand hoped to further expand the reach of NARS in the Chinese consumer. The Shiseido Group is also said to be "de-Shiseido-izing" of its brands to create an independent and individual brand image. NARS is also undoubtedly an important part of the group's innovation. Shiseido Group President Masahiko Ushitani once said, "Shiseido, whose name comes from “the Book of Change”, has placed great importance on China from the start and we have made business for priority of Chinese consumers. We are also working with retail partners such as Alibaba in an effort to promote faster business growth in China than in other regions. Shiseido must be a winner in the global market." "The arrival of NARS in China encompasses two missions for the company: one is to signify that the Group will focus on the growth of the color cosmetics category which has shown strong growth and speed in the Group's financial results. Shiseido hopes to follow this trend and provide the brands needed for the millennial generation." Kentaro Fujiwara, general manager of Shiseido (China) Investment Co. has also said, "On the other hand, Shiseido also hopes to use this opportunity to promote the iteration of its internal organization. We will establish new fundamentals for the future through NARS to understand the new aspirations and fashion needs of Chinese consumers, which are needed within the company." On October 27, 2021, Shiseido officially opened its R&D center in Oriental Beauty Valley in Fengxian District, Shanghai. According to Shiseido's website, the group has seven R&D centers worldwide located in the major markets of the group including Europe, the America, Asia Pacific and Japan. It is worth mentioning that it has 2 R&D centers in China and the Oriental Beauty Valley R&D center, as its 8th R&D center worldwide, is also the 3rd one set up in China - even Japan has only 2 R&D centers in its home country. This shows that the position of the Chinese market speaks for itself.

  • As Gained A Bunch of Followers, Fenty Beauty Flopped in Endorsement

    How to launch and develop deeper in the Chinese market in a more appropriate and sustainable way is still an issue that other international brands need to pay attention to. Fenty Beauty is a new beauty brand launched in September 2017 by singer Rihanna and LVMH beauty incubator Kendo Brands.With Rihanna's deep personal characteristics, Fenty Beauty is featured by inclusivity with its products for all skin types and skin tones. For example, its foundation were launched in 40 shades. Founded in 2017, Fenty Beauty has quickly grown into one of the most sought-after makeup brands just in 4 years. In 40 days of opening, Fenty Beauty reached $100 million in sales. In fiscal year of 2018, the brand surpassed $584 million in global sales. Fenty Beauty was highly anticipated at launch due to the immense popularity of Rihanna herself. Long before the brand announced its entry into the Chinese market, there was already a lot of buzz about the brand and its products on Weibo, Xiaohongshu and other Chinese social media platforms. In June 2019, Fenty Beauty launched its official account in Weibo and Xiaohongshu releasing a number of advertising videos and product posters one after another. On September 3, 2019, Fenty Beauty announced the launch of its Tmall International overseas flagship store and opened the Tmall Super Brand Day on September 20, 2019. The head of Fenty Beauty has said, "The rising demand for makeup among young Chinese consumers and the ultra-sensitivity of social media and online shopping have driven Fenty Beauty to enter the Chinese market. And Tmall International, which gathers young consumers and helps overseas brands grow quickly, is undoubtedly preferred platform for the brand to enter China". The star effect of Rihanna and the reputation accumulated in social networks make Fenty Beauty a hot fashion makeup brand today. Its Tmall International overseas flagship store was launched in half a day to attract more than 50,000 followers. In September 2019, the brand ranked No. 1 in the makeup highlighter category in the first month of sales with sales exceeding $15 million in the first year. More than 200,000 pieces of Diamond Bomb Highlighter were sold. Fenty Beauty entered China with the strategy of "creating hot-selling products", mainly focusing on the skinstick and highlighter. From the Tmall overseas flagship store, the sales of Fenty Beauty skinstick and highlighter are among the top three hot products in the store. The sales of skinstick and highlighter account for 50% of the total sales of the store. Among them, the monthly sales of skinstick are 30,000+ and the monthly sales of highlighter are 6,000+. Discussions on Chinese social media platforms also reflect that. Currently, Fenty Beauty-related discussions on Weibo include 44% of total volume for the skinstick and highlighter. It is good to say that the Skinstick and Highlighter are synonymous with the Fenty Beauty at this stage. Fenty Beauty has been looking for new ways to market itself in China since it gained a foothold in the market in 2019. In April 2020, it launched the "Fenty Face Fresh" collaborative collection with HEYTEA, giving a new spark to two brands that were both created in the social media era. Then, Fenty Skin launched its new skincare line including face cleanser, moisturizer and serum on July 31, 2020. Although Fenty Beauty is doing well in all aspects today, it was controversial in its early days in China because its ambassador Li Kaixin did not match its positioning. When Fenty Beauty entered China, it announced "Li Kaixin" as its ambassador. However, the majority of consumers resisted and said: "I don't know this person, who is this person?", "It doesn't match the brand positioning at all", and "I will never buy Fenty Beauty products again. ...... People argued she doesn't match the brand image. The most fundamental reason for this awkward situation is that Fenty Beauty needs to use celebrities to raise brand awareness and open up the market locally when it first lands in China. But because Fenty Beauty doesn't understand the Chinese market, it ends up in a situation where consumers don't accept. Fenty Beauty then opened up its market by selecting popular icon Fan Cheng Cheng as its spokesperson for China. Under the official announcement of Fan's endorsement, a netizen commented, "Sales in its flagship store doubled within an hour after Fan became the spokesperson. That's the reason, win-win partnership." Fenty Beauty also corporate with many other celebrities. The brand has chosen Wang Ju and fashion blogger Mia Kong, a friend of it, because their personalities match the its image, which is good for the brand to introduce style of the brand to unfamiliar consumers when entering the Chinese market. Now that China has become the second largest market for cosmetics. More and more international brands are looking to enter the country. It is still a matter for other international brands to pay attention to how to launch and develop in China in a more appropriate and sustainable way.

  • VICHY “Rejuvenated” with Successful Innovative Transformation

    Pharmacies have always been an important channel for VICHY. The strategy of returning to pharmacies in 2020 has gained some performance. It is expected that VICHY will achieve double-digit growth next year. In Roman times, the town of VICHY, located in central France, was famous for its hot springs which originated in the Auvergne volcanic region and were loved for their unique strengthening and rejuvenating properties. In the 17th century, the town of VICHY became known as the "Queen of Hot Spring". In 1931, cosmetologist Mr. GUERIN and Dr. HALLER, a dermatologist at the VICHY Spa Treatment Center, co-founded VICHY Health Skin Care products. It registered trademark as VICHY and incorporated VICHY spring water into a high-tech product for beauty and skin care that became a worldwide success. In 1955, VICHY was incorporated into the L'Oréal Group as part of the Active Cosmetics division. In 1998, VICHY entered the Chinese market as the first skincare brand to apply pharmacies as its main channel, focusing on "safe pharmaceutical cosmetics" when it entered the Chinese market. At that time, the cooperation between VICHY and Chinese pharmacies showed a win-win situation. For the pharmacies, the aura of international brand as VICHY and beautiful display of back counter enhanced the overall image of the pharmacy and attracted more young consumers to the pharmacy. At the same time, the higher profit of the products also brings considerable benefits to the pharmacy. With the differentiated channel positioning of "pharmacy exclusive" and the background of dermatologists, VICHY has successfully brought the concept of "cosmeceuticals" into the Chinese market. Public information shows that the number of VICHY counters in Chinese drugstores reached 3,000 at its peak and annual sales once exceeded $235 million making it an unparalleled success. Obviously, this approach by VICHY continues its business strategy in the European and American markets but it has to face up to the fact that there are many differences between European and American pharmacies and Chinese pharmacies. In China, pharmacies have never been a mainstream channel for cosmetics with some consumers saying that "a big factor in buying cosmetics in pharmacies is the ability to use medical insurance cards." However, with the policies related to medical insurance cards are limited, such taking advantage of the loopholes have been curbed. Furthermore, fast-changing market led VICHY to abandon its "pharmacy exclusive" and start multi-channel development. Since 2008, VICHY has made a decisive change from a single channel to a multi-channel development and has entered Chinese mainstream e-commerce platforms such as Tmall and Jingdong while applying counters in department store as the main channel offline. The neglect of the professional channel by VICHY has diluted the professional image of the brand that has been operating in China for many years. Between 2010 and 2019, market share of VICHY in China declined from 38.1% to 7.1%. VICHY also had an inkling of the changes in the market which is the period of pressure that Vickers experienced. Chen Min, vice president of L'Oreal China and general manager of the Active Cosmetics Division, once said, "In 2017, we only had a few hundred counters inside Chinese pharmacies." Along with the period of pressure, VICHY also went through a "silent period". This period of silence may be related to performance. Although L'Oreal has never disclosed the individual performance of VICHY but the performance of the L'Oreal Active Cosmetics division where VICHY is located can be seen that although the division's performance to achieve growth, but the proportion is small and the growth is not very well compared to L'Oreal's high-end cosmetics division. In 2020, after 12 years of farewell to pharmacies in the Chinese market, VICHY decided to return to this channel. On August 11, 2020, VICHY joined hands with a large Chinese pharmaceutical retail chain, Guoda Pharmacy, to launch the 0+0 (integration of offline and online channels) Skin Health Science Management Center and to start to focus on the pharmacy channel again. In L'Oreal China's 2020 financial results, the active division has seen a explosive growth in the wake of a series of skin problems caused by wearing masks. VICHY "back to the pharmacy" channel strategy has also yielded some results - no more new department stores but back to the pharmacy. It promoted effective new products. From many actions of the brand in last year to date, VICHY is increasingly focused on "functional skin care". In the perspective of channel, L'Oreal China Vice President and General Manager of the Active Health Division, Ma Lan, said that pharmacies have always been an important channel for VICHY. After the strategy of returning to pharmacies in 2020 has been effective, online and offline are also gaining integration. In terms of youthful marketing, VICHY differentiated from the general marketing approach of skincare products and based on efficacy, ingredients and professional positioning. The brand will invest more marketing expenses in the future on vertical social platforms such as professional KOL test accounts and cooperation with dermatologists to continuously output professional promotion and science. "Consumers are getting more and more rational now. Professionalism is the trend of the future and the main concern of young users. Young marketing has to do with marketing that communicates scientifically, such as working with dermatologists to promote, dispel rumors and do efficacy lectures." Ma Lan pointed out that "VICHY will also accelerate innovation and speed up R&D and new product launches. It is expected to achieve double-digit performance growth next year." In June 2021, VICHY also released two of its new products, VICHY Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions and DERCOS Densi-Solutions Series which is the first time VICHY DERCOS Scalp Care Series has introduced its products to the Chinese market. The two new products, a total of 8 SKUs, are now available in VICHY Jingdong overseas flagship store and VICHY official Tmall flagship store. This time, the introduction of the DERCOS series will refresh its brand positioning in the Chinese market and provide a new growth opportunity for VICHY to enter the scalp care category. It also gave a new challenge to the Chinese shampoo industry.

  • Filorga: An Ingredient-Centric Brand with Precise Positioning & Omnichannel Operation

    Filorga has not rushed to apply on each channel from the beginning. We just want to mutually benefit with each channel and build a good professional and efficient brand image. Founded in 1978 by Michel Tordjman, a French medical cosmetic and cell biologist, the top French anti-aging skincare brand Filorga Laboratories specializes in developing a range of therapeutic solutions to combat skin anti-aging. It boasts unique advantage in terms of safety and effectiveness. In the context of medical aesthetics, Filorga philosophy is "Better Yourself". With the energy of science and technology, the brand has quickly opened up the market and its products in the French pharmacy chain once grew to second in sales. It exceeded many beauty brands and became popular in Europe and a diamond in the rough. Its skin care line has been sold to more than 10,000 retail outlets worldwide and has expanded its business to more than 60 countries and regions. In 2015, Filorga officially entered China. Before that, Filorga has long become widely known with popular single products such as the "Filorga Meso-Mask" by virtue of its laboratory quality. After gaining enough awareness on cross-border shipping and social media platforms, Filorga embarked on a cross-border e-commerce platform to engage directly with the Chinese market and consumers. Filogra positioning of targeted audience in France is very different from that of Chinese. In France, the main users mainly enjoyed over 40 years old. In China, the targeted audience is under 35 years old and has a strong demand for efficacious skin care products. In addition, because the brand has always been characterized by efficacy and patented ingredients, many ingredient-centric fans have become more concerned and fallen in love with the brand in recent years. Unlike the foreign pioneers, most of the new international brands entering Chinese market today will use cross-border shopping and online flagship stores as their first choice to debut in the Chinese market. In 2016, Filogra entered the offline channel in China. At the same time, as further reach Chinese consumers and increase brand awareness, Filogra new retail trials and e-commerce platform trials were carried out simultaneously. At that time, Tmall International station was officially opened to further develop the brand's channel operations in the Chinese market. In 2017, Filorga and Tmall Global started their partnership and achieved remarkable results. In the first quarter of 2019, Filorga grew 106% in all channels in the Chinese market compared to the previous year. The total sales in 2018 grew 148% compared to the previous year. It made China the second largest market for Filorga worldwide. The fast-growing sales show the popularity of French genetics of Filorga and innovative technologies in the Chinese market. It is clear that Filorga is taking a steady step in China. According to Damon Yeoh, General Manager of Filorga China, "Filorga has not rushed to apply on each channel from the beginning. We just want to mutually benefit with each channel and build a good professional and efficient brand image". In 2020, there is a global shift in travel retail. Chinese consumers have become a major group that global brands are competing with. In the case of Filorga, the brand's strongest sales performance in travel retail is in Hainan. On the one hand, thanks to the Chinese policy, Filorga is growing rapidly in Hainan retail. On the other hand it also partnered with retailers whose positioning is a better fit for the brand. Secondly, as Filorga's operations in China are directly handled by the Chinese team, they can also make timely and corresponding adjustment strategies for the current situation in the Chinese market while the Chinese market is also a great boost for Filorga in the post-epidemic era. On September 22nd, 2021, Filorga announced young Chinese actor Wang Junkai as its first spokesperson of face mask in the world and presented a commercial promotion featuring its hot-selling product, "Filorga Meso-Mask". As a high-end laboratory skincare brand, it has been committed to providing consumers with professional and scientific skincare solutions and creating a series of classic works. This time, the brand has joined hands with Wang Junkai to get closer to consumers and communicate with young consumers about their need. Thus it will bring a perfect change. It is worth noting that Colgate announced the acquisition of Filorga skin care business in July 2019. Noel Wallace, Colgate’s President and Chief Executive Officer of Colgate, commented that "Filorga is a strong, premium brand that enjoys unique position to fit well with our long-term personal care growth strategy. We are pleased that this acquisition will add a high-growth, profitable global skin care asset to Colgate's portfolio. We also gained opportunity to drive continued growth through expanded distribution and awareness. The acquisition also provides Colgate with the opportunity to enter the fast-growing and sizeable travel retail channel, particularly in Asia."

  • Another International Brand Withdraws from the Market. What Should Benefit Do?

    The fact that Benefit has withdrew counters in a wide range is only a microcosm of the current changes in the Chinese makeup market. This reflects the fact that the Chinese beauty market is quite competitive and it is only a matter of time before international brands are eliminated from the market if they fail to keep up with the changing needs of Chinese consumers. Benefit, a brand that grew up and rose in the U.S. It has already been a major international brand, was founded by twin sisters who joined forces to create this beauty empire. Benefit is a high-end beauty brand from San Francisco. The brand upholds the philosophy that “Smiling is the best makeup.”. Its first Face Place boutique was opened in San Francisco in 1976 by Jean & Jane. By 1990, Face Place was rebranded as Benefit Cosmetics. The following year, the first counter was opened in Henri Bendel's department store in New York City, USA. As a result, this one-of-a-kind beauty brand has taken off and is quickly becoming a global sensation. As the world's No.1 brow brand, Benefit is also seen as synonymous with "happy beauty" and "instant beauty solutions". In 1999, Benefit was acquired by LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. Until 2012, the founders, the twin sisters, were still in charge of the products. In December 2020, Jane Ford, the brand's co-founder, died on December 1 at the age of 73 at her home in Tiburon, California, due to long-term health issues while Jane Ford's twin sister, Gene Ford, had died of cancer in 2019. In 2007, Benefit officially entered China, opening the first 2 counters in Shanghai and Beijing and setting a new sales record in Asia on the first day of store opening. In 2008, it entered Sephora China and will open stores in China one after another. Brow products are the main products of Benefit, from eyebrow pencils, eyebrow powders, eyebrow gel and eyebrow liquid to brow highlighters, Benefit has introduced almost every makeup product that can groom your brows. In addition, the brand also set brow bars that specialize in providing brow grooming services in Benefit's offline stores. In the 14 years since its entry into China, Benefit has established itself as the "brow expert" in the Chinese market with a range of eyebrow products and offline eyebrow grooming services. When it entered the Chinese market in 2007, Benefit quickly gained a foothold with its retro girly packaging and a few classic products. Nowadays, the Chinese beauty market is changing. As many international first-line brands coming out with new products, Chinese cosmetic brands represented by Perfect Diary, JudyDoll and Floasis also have their own star products. The development of Benefit, on the other hand, is almost at a standstill. Its products that are remembered by people are not much different from those of more than a decade ago. In March 2021, Benefit underwent a China-wide withdrawal of its counters. In April, it essentially completely quit the offline counter channel. Benefit responded that the brand is adjusting its business model in China as the general retail environment and trends change. The brand will gradually withdraw its department store counters and will be mainly available at Sephora and Tmall online official flagship stores in the future. As a cosmetic mall chain, Sephora is owned by the same group of LVMH as Benefit. It is certainly a more cost effective way for Benefit to locate its counters in Sephora. And from LVMH's financial report, the group has long planned for the contraction of Benefit sales channels. In March 2021, LVMH released its 2020 financial report, which mentioned that business of Benefit was hampered by the closure of points of sale. Not only have the products failed to keep up with the times, but price is another point that Benefit has been criticized. Prior to the launch of the mini, most of Benefit single products were priced above $31.26, such as the Pore fessional Primer at around $45.33 and 24-HR Brow Setter at around $48.45. However, the Chinese brand was able to low the unit price of products in these categories to just $10 and the quality was not very different. With the launch of the minis, its unit price was reduced to nearly half of the regular volume but the price advantage was not significant either. In terms of channels, Benefit has also failed to catch the opportunity of the Chinese e-commerce dividend. Although settling on Chinese popular e-commerce platform Tmall since 2011, Benefit decided to quit after six months and re-launched Tmall in 2017. As its iterative strategy led the brand to miss out on the accumulation of market share for beauty brands online. And after the closure of fooline stores in the aftermath of the pandemic directly impacted the beauty counters, Benefit’s response in the Chinese market lagged much behind compared to Chinese brands and was unsuccessful in the era of live stream. Some sources said: The fact that Benefit has withdrew counters in a wide range is only a microcosm of the current changes in the Chinese makeup market. Similar problems still exist in many international brands, such as the first generation of Korean makeup brand Etude House, the natural beauty brand Jurlique, and Face Shop. This reflects the fact that the Chinese beauty market is quite competitive and it is only a matter of time before international brands are eliminated from the market if they fail to keep up with the changing needs of Chinese consumers.

  • Vaseline's Ambition to "Occupy" China

    The establishment of a complete matrix of body care products in China highlights the desire of Vaseline to further "capture" the Chinese body care market. It also shows that Unilever has taken another important step in its rush into the Chinese market. Unilever is launching a new onslaught on the Chinese market. One foot is expansion. In recent years, Unilever intensively acquiring a series of international beauty brands to launch a global purchase trend. After that, the company accelerates the introduction of these brands into China through the opening of Tmall overseas flagship stores or into the CS channel. All of these brand flood into the Chinese market. The other foot is deep developing. Brands that have been laid out in China for years are being developed into new increase by Unilever. Vaseline, which has a 151-year history and ranks as one of Unilever's 1 billion euro (equal to about $1.158 billion) brand, is the most important part of this strategy. In Unilever's financial reports in recent years, "stability" and "newness" of Vaseline have been praised many times. On the one hand, the brand has been growing steadily, which has helped drive the Group to growth. On the other hand, Vaseline has been responding to market demand by launching diversified and segmented product lines - it is hard to imagine that the brand has founded around for 151 years, yet it seems so agile and young in terms of market responsiveness. In the Chinese market, Vaseline has been performing well. Ma Wen, Vice President of Personal Care Category, Unilever North Asia, revealed that the Vaseline has "shown a good upward trend" in sales figures since entering the Chinese market. Hand cream of Vaseline grew significantly due to the increased frequency of hand washing by consumers during the pandemic with e-commerce performing particularly well. Ma Wen shared a figure that "during the epidemic, Vaseline sales increased by 400% in the Watsons online business channel alone." In Double 11 - Chinese Shopping Festival - in 2018, Vaseline teamed up with Chinese e-commerce platform Tmall to create a new "healthy white UV lightening" that garnered significant sales and gained a firm foothold in the body lotion category. In order to provide Chinese consumers with more precise body care products, Vaseline has also been innovating and developing hand and foot masks and neck creams for different parts of the body to achieve head-to-toe body care. With a series of initiatives, Vaseline success to capture the exact needs of consumers. In the promotional campaign on June 18th in 2019, Vaseline hand and foot masks and body lotions became one of the hottest selling products with a 100% year-on-year increase in turnover in the Tmall flagship store. The store gained 250,000 new fans, of which the young demographic accounted for 68%. It boosted the proportion of Generation Z in the consumer population. In the promotional campaign on June 18th in 2021, the turnover of Vaseline Tmall store increased 148% year-on-year. The store's hot-selling single product "Vaseline Niacinamide Radiance" was sold 200,000+ bottles, with a 502% year-on-year increase in sales. "No. 5 AHA Smoothing" sold 120,000+ bottles, with a 294% year-on-year increase in sales. The multi-star endorsement by localized celebrities has become one of Unilever's key tools to extend the China market in recent years. To promote the launch of the new Pro Derma body lotion, Vaseline announced Chinese actress Liu Shishi as its first Asia Pacific spokesperson on March 3, 2020 and Chinese actor Chen Weiting as the Asia Pacific (body skincare) spokesperson on May 6, 2020. Based on the different vibes conveyed by the two celebrities, Vaseline has been making product recommendations for different types of fans. After the multi-artist endorsement and promotional videos were revealed one after another, the new product of Vaseline has set off several rounds of conversation among different groups of its fans. For Chinese consumers, the brand has clearly mastered the key to rejuvenation. And for Vaseline, the thickness of the brand value is only lighter with the catalyst of new trends. A complete body care product line has been established in the Chinese market. This not only underlines Vaseline's ambition to further "capture" the Chinese body care market, but also shows that Unilever has taken another important step in its rush into the Chinese market.

  • One Make-up Remover Bottle, Keep BIODERMA Fruitful

    In Chinese makeup remover market, BIODERMA has always remain top and hard to beat against. Its hot-selling removing is almost synonymous with makeup remover. For Chinese consumers, BIODERMA is almost synonymous with make-up remover. But for its native French consumers, it represents a brand with safe and effective biotech skincare. BIODERMA is a brand founded on the idea of "biotechnology for skin problems". Created in 1985 in Lyon, France, it had a biotech laboratory of the same name. The first star product born in this laboratory was the BIODERMA Make-up Removing, known to the Chinese as a make-up remover. No promotion or endorsement but only recommended by dermatologists and pharmacists for its safety and efficacy, BIODERMA Make-up Removing quickly became a hit in France and was sold worldwide with a record of 8 bottles sold every minute. In 2011, BIODERMA officially entered China and established a subsidiary in Shanghai - Shanghai BIODERMA Cosmetics Trading Co. BIODERMA Make-up Removing officially entered China and soon became famous as a safe and effective make-up remover, which sold well in China and has been growing at a high rate. In 2016, the Chinese makeup market boomed and the makeup remover market expanded with it. As a result, BIODERMA expanded rapidly into the Chinese market, where BIODERMA makeup remover can be found in almost every offline cosmetics store. In 2018, sales of BIODERMA grew by more than 30%. In promotional campaign on June 18th in Tmall, BIODERMA won the Top 1 sales in the makeup remover category, which is the biggest winner in makeup remover category of the campaign. The store sold a total of 620,000 products and the its star product, BIODERMA Make-up Removing, exceeded $8,596,500 in cumulative sales in the campaign. BIODERMA has been in China for 10 years. It relied on offline channels to build up deep consumer awareness and maintained a steady annual growth of 20%. In 2013, BIODERMA accelerated its online channel with official authorized stores on mainstream e-commerce platforms such as Jingdong, Xiaohongshu, Tmall Supermarket and Vipshop. Today, BIODERMA’s online and offline channels contribute equally to its performance. In 2019, in contrast to the mainstream, BIODERMA began to emphasize the "foundation" of the CS channel. Even after the epidemic, it still increased its investment in the offline channel. The head of BIODERMA has said in an interview that BIODERMA wants to achieve balance in all channel - both online should achieve grow and offline stores should provide consumers with in-store experience and service. She also said that the cooperation with well-positioned makeup stores has been potent in building the connection between the BIODERMA and customers, especially in Chinese fourth and fifth-tier cities where e-commerce penetration is actually still very low. The recommendation of shopper guide and reputation transmission of product quality are still the main ways of sales. In the Chinese market, targeted audience of BIODERMA are young women aged 18-25 covering Tier 1 to Tier 5 cities. Generation Z consumers advocate beauty and health and have the pursuit of quality of life. They are very willing and are brave to consumption. In the face of the rising consumption of Generation Z, BIODERMA actively narrows the distance with consumers. The brand choose to cooperate with some young and popular Chinese celebrities who match the tone of brand. It aims to strengthen the connection of "endorsement + product + concept". Currently, spokesperson of BIODERMA makeup remover is young Chinese actor Li Yifeng and its ambassador of body care and makeup remover is popular idol Bo Yuan. Both of them have clean, positive and healthy images that fit well with the brand. BIODERMA headquarters calls the Chinese market “dragon” and has been giving it high priority since 2017. The French lab and R&D team have developed some products that are different from the European market in terms of color, fragrance, ingredients, efficacy and texture, which will be more in line with preferences of Chinese consumers. For example, the "Year of the Ox" Limited Edition Cleanser was launched by BIODERMA for China. It is designed with elements of traditional Chinese paper-cutting art. The marketing techniques can be very different as well in China. In France, BIODERMA Original DNA is a healthy skincare brand that uses biotechnology to solve skin problems and relies more on dermatologists' recommendations and prescriptions. In China, on the other hand, BIODERMA will combine some Chinese marketing trends to work with KOLs and ingredient-centric experts. It also will apply digital marketing methods such as live-streaming with products and private domain operations while providing high-quality humanized professional skincare services.

  • Sold out in China, Estee Lauder Remained Popular Among Chinese Consumers

    The inventory of Estee Lauder's eye creams in China were sold out by Chinese consumers so that Estee Lauder has to transfer stock globally to ship from stock around the world to China. In 1946, Mrs. Estee Lauder founded the brand same as her name with the desire to bring beauty to every woman. For more than half a century, it has earned a global reputation for leading-edge technology and efficacy. Today, its line of skincare, makeup and fragrance products are sold in more than 130 countries and territories around the world. Mrs. Estee Lauder has always believed that "every woman can always be beautiful and fashionable". In doing so, she brought her taste of life and her sensitivity of fashion to the Estee Lauder, which not only reshaped the American cosmetics industry, but also influenced the global cosmetics market. The Chinese market has been a blessing for the Estee Lauder.On first day of the pre-sale during the Double 11 - Chinese Online Shopping Carnival on November 11st in 2019, Chinese consumers bought out the 410,000 bottles of eye cream that Estee Lauder had in stock in its Chinese warehouse. Estee Lauder had to transfer the goods globally and shipped the hot sale essence in stock around the world to China in an emergency to meet the consumption enthusiasm of Chinese consumers. Data show that: the first day of Tmall Double 11 pre-sale, sales of Estee Lauder exceeded the whole day of Double 11 last year in the 25 minutes. 410,000 bottles of its essence in China's inventory of eye cream were sold out, the equivalent of selling a bottle of eye cream every 15 seconds. At this rate, Chinese consumers bought nearly 20% of the global sales of the eye cream on this day. Tmall "Double 11" in 2019, orders from pre-sale of Estee Lauder amounted to more than $ 155 million, which was the first brand to enter the "$ 155 Million Club”. The speed was so amazing that Estee Lauder held an internal meeting to do their best to address more supply and demand from Chinese consumers. "We have anticipated that Tmall Double 11 would be hot so that we have specially prepared sufficient goods. But the result of pre-sale is still unexpected." An Estee Lauder management said. According to industry practice, nine months before the Double 11 every year, international cosmetic brands will prepare inventory for the Tmall Double 11. These goods have been prepared in place six months in advance. Even most of them will deliver by sea into the Chinese warehouse. Preparation of goods is often expected to temporarily break because of the sales. But in the shopping festival this time, the sales were out of expectation and preparation even the inventory by air cargo in advance is not enough. On November 8, 2019, Estee Lauder joined hands with Taobao Live, a consuming live-streaming platform, to conduct a brand live-streaming campaign with the theme of "Tonight - Frozen Youth". Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Series, Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup Foundation and other selected products were snapped up by fans right after they launched. The hot products in its live streaming were also popularized by the sale of more than 500,000 bottles of Night Repair Eye Cream, more than 160,000 bottles of Night Repair Serum and 65,000 pieces of Skincare Set. During the Double 11 - Chinese shopping festival in 2020, Estee Lauder once again overwhelmed the other brand and became the first flagship store of Tmall to enter the $155 million club in just 2 hours on the opening day of the sale on November 1. China is one of the most important strategic markets for Estee Lauder Group globally and the brand will be the focus on its future development in the emerging markets of Asia Pacific, including China. In 2021, the list of "China's Outstanding Employers in 2021" by the distinguished employer research agency was announced, Estée Lauder Group China was once again honored as one of the "Top Employers in China" with the employer brand building. This is the sixth consecutive year that the company has received this award. On May 13, 2021, the construction of the Estée Lauder Group Global R&D Center China project officially started in Shanghai. The construction was announced by Estée Lauder Group to the public during the pandemic in February 2020, which reflected a strong belief in the opportunities in China and a positive attitude towards its development. In the future, the center will be the largest innovation R&D center in the international markets of Estee Lauder Group.

  • Elizabeth Arden Turning the Tables and Competing in Chinese market.

    The change of brand made it suffer a long period of tough. But a series of combinations is what helped Elizabeth Arden to turn the tables. In 2016, Revlon Group acquired Elizabeth Arden for a consideration of $419 million. Since then, the brand has started to put effort in the Chinese e-commerce channel as well as the Chinese travel retail market. Between 2016 to 2017, sales of Elizabeth Arden in the Chinese e-commerce channel grew by more than 50% year-on-year accounting for 80% of total sales in China. Elizabeth Arden is an international skincare brand that entered the Chinese market in 1995. Its classic product "Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules" is well known among Chinese consumers. However, for many years in China, Elizabeth Arden previously operated through multiple agents. Later it withdrew its agency rights and gradually changed to a direct-operated model. The change of brand made it suffer a long period of tough. It failed to catch up with the explosion of beauty brands in department stores and once missed the window of period when rapid expansion of the brand. For various reasons before, Elizabeth Arden faced a crisis of how to break through and rebuild in the Chinese market. With the rapid development of e-commerce in China, however, Elizabeth Arden gradually realized that online could be a key to the brand to break through. So Elizabeth Arden became one of the first international high-end cosmetics brands to settle in Tmall. In 2015 it achieved an annual turnover of $1.55 million. The brand then managed to achieve 100% growth in each of the following years. In fact, the achievement for Elizabeth Arden in Tmall is not very remarkable. But after a period of time, it finally found the right position for the brand. It is understood that at the beginning of entering Tmall, Arden only sold the old products abandoned by the counter online and the sales were not as much as they should be. From 2016, Elizabeth Arden gradually realized the unique nature of the Tmall flagship store is the "brand's second official website". It immediately adjust the product strategy. The latter new products are aimed at online and offline simultaneous sale. The adjustment of the strategy has brought Arden significant gains. According to Elizabeth Arden official data, the final payment amount of Arden's Tmall flagship store during Double 11 - the Chinese Shopping Festival in reached $14.354 million, an increase of 60% year-on-year. The sales across all channel online exceeded $15 million, which making it the head brand of high-end beauty. By 2019, China had become Elizabeth Arden's largest global market overtaking the US. New products are a powerful tool to improve the brand to continue to grow at a high rate. Through the analysis of big data from Tmall, the young generation of Chinese consumers have a more advanced concept of skincare and are willing to spend money on anti-aging products. Based on this, Elizabeth Arden has launched "Pink Capsules" and "Fresh Capsules" for the younger generation in addition to "Gold Capsules". In February 2020, Elizabeth Arden saw a trend of "counter-trend growth" online against the backdrop of the epidemic. Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules was launched at the promotional campaign “Tmall Super Brand Day” sold 27000 pieces. The brand flagship store received 128,000 new customers and store-wide sales exceeded US$11.315 million. "Although the counters have been affected by the epidemic, we have put much energy on the online business. As the completion of Super Brand Day, we worked for the promotional campaign for the Women’s Day on March 8th. Everyone is working hard. We have faith on the growth and trend-led power of Tmall." Yuan Liwei, General Manager of Elizabeth Arden China, said. The brand plan the data for region-wide marketing when they have difficult when settle in the Tmall platform. It adjust the strategic layout of the brand in time to correctly suit targeted consumers. It launched different themes every day during the promotion to maintain traffic growth. It analyzed data to plan ahead and accurately make predictions for the future promotion ...... This series of combinations is what helped Elizabeth Arden to turn the tables.

  • Despite Hot Sales of Shu Uemura, Failed Ingredients for Several Times

    In April of this year, shu uemura Loose Powder M Natural (weight 1.5 kg) was not allowed to enter China. The shu uemura is named after its founder, Shu Uemura. Born in Tokyo, Japan in 1928, Shu Uemura moved to Hollywood for various reasons and started his career. With his unique insight into aesthetics, he gradually made a name for himself and became a popular makeup artist in Hollywood through his involvement in film makeup. In the 1960s, Shu Uemura founded his studio and a personal makeup company. During this period, he created his first cleansing oil, which was based on the concept of deep cleaning with "cleansing oily makeup with oil". It turned the perception of the beauty industry upside down. This led to Shu Uemura being called the "father of cleansing oil" and the emergence of the brand of shu Uemura. Until now, the cleansing oil remains a star products of the brand with a bottle sold every 7 seconds worldwide. In addition to cleansing oils, Shu Uemura combining Eastern and Western cultures with professional craftsmanship has also pioneered several precedents, such as the hard formula eyebrow pencil which is also high reputation among Chinese consumers and has also been followed by other brands. As a pioneering innovator in the industry, Shu Uemura himself and his eponymous brand shu uemura have also gained international recognition and caught the attention of the L'Oréal Group. In November 2000, L'Oréal Group acquired 35% of the shares of Shu Uemura Cosmetics through its Japanese subsidiary in order to take over the rights to the Shu Uemura in international markets outside Japan. The brand was also the first brand of L'Oréal Group from Japan.

  • Shiseido will Put Forward Investment in Chinese Market for Good Performance

    Shiseido is a famous Japanese cosmetic brand, which adheres to the philosophy of "100 years of craftsmanship, born to beauty". The name of Shiseido is derived from the Chinese I Ching, which refers to praise the virtues of the earth to nurture new life and create new values". That also reflects the brand image of Shiseido. In 1897, Shiseido scientifically developed a lotion called EUDERMINE, based on a Western pharmacological prescription. Since then, Shiseido has been dedicated to research on skin beautification and developing many innovative products and beauty methods. In the 40 years since Shiseido's first steps in Beijing in 1981, China has become a major overseas market for Shiseido. While all other markets in the Shiseido Group were under pressure in 2020 due to the epidemic, Asia Pacific, especially China, was a standout performer. Against the backdrop of declining growth in the rest of the world, Shiseido China grew by 9.1%, the only positive growth region. During promotional campaign on November 11st in 2020, Shiseido exceeded more than twice the sales of the previous year, and the e-commerce segment has accounted for more than 40% of the full year's business in China, up more than 70% year-on-year. On the fifth anniversary of Shiseido's Tmall Super Brand Day (Tmall Super Brand Day: an activity conducted by Tmall in conjunction with its resident merchants, where participating merchants set their own "brand day" for the year), Shiseido made a stunning debut with its new Sakura Toning Essence, selling 25,000+ bottles as soon as it entered the market.The sales of this product exceeded the target by making impressive sales of $15 million on the same day. It even broke a new brand record by growing nearly two times over Super Brand Day in the last year. Not only that, 1 piece of Sakura Toning Essence is sold every 3 seconds in Shiseido's Tmall flagship store. As the hot product of Shiseido brand, Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate is affectionately known as "Hong Yao Zi" by Chinese consumers. Soon after its debut in 2014, "Hong Yao Zi" became Shiseido's best-selling product, with one bottle sold every 13 seconds. According to statistics, China's S-class live streamer Li Jiaqi sold 5,000 orders of Shiseido Red Waist Seed in 3 minutes in Taobao Live on June 1st in 2019. During the promotional campaign on November 11st in 2019, the sales of this single product alone exceeded $928,800 million dollars in just 69 minutes, which reached over $15 million dollars in sales for the whole day last year, with an average of more than 160 pieces of the single product sold per second. At present, the Chinese market has become a hot section in the eyes of major international cosmetic groups and cosmetic giants from all over the world have put more energy into it. In 2019, parent company of Shiseido, the Shiseido Group, set up a China Business Innovation Investment Office to develop new technologies. In March 2020, it set up its third China Research Institute in The Oriental Beauty Valley. Shiseido Global CEO Masahiko Ushitani has publicly stated that the Shiseido Group will innovate in China in this way and that it intends to focus its campaign in the Chinese market in the future. (Shanghai Oriental Beauty Valley: a "three-dimensional industrial system" with the entire Fengxian District of Shanghai as the carrier, with the "beauty and health" concept related to the product axis, service axis, industrial axis of three major coordinate systems.) Talking about the characteristics of the Chinese market, Shiseido China CEO Kentaro Fujiwara said that the size of the Chinese market and consumers is the largest in the world and Chinese consumers are very willing to try new things. For the Shiseido Group, China is undoubtedly the market that generates the most innovation and can be said to be the fountainhead. On August 5, 2021, Shiseido China announced a strategic cooperation framework agreement with Boyu Investment, a leading asset management company in China, and planned to launch Ziyue Fund, the first international beauty group-specific investment fund in mainland China, within the year after the completion of relevant regulatory filings. Shiseido China said that the Ziyue Fund will focus on emerging brands in China beauty and health sectors as well as investment opportunities in upstream and downstream related technology services companies.

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