Milk Exosomes Successfully Included in INCI Catalog

The so-called "milk exosomes" are actually composed of milk extracts and other ingredients.

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Recently, the milk exosome raw material developed by Tianjin Exosome Technology Co. was officially approved to be included in the International Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) catalog under the trade name "Milk Exosomes" with the INCI number "35079", and the reporting code of the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) for cosmetic ingredients: 138313-04375-2440.

It is reported that the relevant research paper Research on the effect of milk exosomes on skin barrier of Tianjin Exosome Technology Co. has been published in the core journal of the Chinese cosmetic industry China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics. The paper elaborates on the remarkable effect of milk exosomes on skin barrier repair through scientific experimental evidence. 

The experimental study found that milk exosomes can enhance the skin barrier and realize the influence on the skin barrier function by regulating the intercellular tight linkage pathway, which has a greater potential for application in repairing damaged skin and soothing allergies.

According to public information, Tianjin Exosome Technology Co., Ltd. is a biopharmaceutical high-tech enterprise focusing on exosome medication loading and targeted delivery. The company has strategically operated three business segments: exosome medication delivery and targeted delivery platform construction, exosome raw material development, and medical device innovation research and development, focusing on building an EXC medication delivery platform with efficient and stable medication coupling patent technology as the core, and a TAD medication delivery platform with exosome self-assembly targeting guidance technology as the core, to establish a competitive barrier in the exosome industry.

As a key substance to transmit information during cellular communication, exosomes play a role in promoting tissue repair and regeneration and maintaining skin elasticity and moisture. Amore Pacific, Clarins, and Kao Group have also published research results related to exosomes and skin.

However, previously, many industry sources told CHAILEEDO that successful applications of exosomes in cosmetics are currently rare, and the concept is greater than the actual efficacy. From the perspective of regulations, in the revised Catalogue of Already-used Cosmetic Raw Materials released by the NMPA in 2021, no cosmetic ingredients with the name "exosomes" were included. Earlier this month, the Guangdong Medical Products Administration issued a statement that "exosome cosmetics" is a pseudo-concept. However, Tianjin Exosome Technology has publicly announced that the "milk exosome" raw material it developed has obtained the cosmetic raw material submission code.

According to CHAILEEDO's investigation, the so-called "milk exosomes" are actually composed of milk extract and other raw materials. Obtaining the raw material submission code is neither equal to new raw materials, nor is it equal to being recognized by the state.

Some industry insiders believe that there are still many pharmaceutical companies that believe that the threshold of the cosmetic industry is low, so they will introduce some products that are controversial in the pharmaceutical field or have insufficient experimental data in the cosmetic industry, but this is not the case in reality. Even if the raw materials are effective in the pharmaceutical field, whether they can be used in cosmetics requires further efficacy and safety verification.