First Cosmetic Brand to Complete Filing of Ingredient This Year
- Chaileedo Press
- Aug 4, 2022
- 3 min read
Updated: Aug 25, 2022
Abstract: Shiseido is the first cosmetic brand company that filed ingredients in China this year.
Recently, according to the official website of the National Medical Product Administration, Shiseido completed the filing of two new cosmetic ingredients, respectively, "piperidinepropionic acid" and "hydroxyethyl imidazolidinone". CHAILEEDO learned that the two ingredients are currently entering the monitoring period.
According to technical requirements released by Shiseido in the National Medical Product Administration show that the piperidine propionic acid is white to light yellow or red in color. Its texture is a powder with a special odor. Hydroxyethyl imidazolidinone is white in color. Its texture is a powder with a special odor. The main purpose of the two new raw materials is moisturizers, suitable for all types of cosmetics. Among them, the safe use amount of "piperidinepropionic acid" is less than or equal to 3%. The safe use amount of "hydroxyethyl imidazolidinone" is less than or equal to 1.5%. According to CHAILEEDO, this is the first new raw material record completed by Shiseido.
In China, the National Medical Products Administration has clear regulations for the filing of new ingredients. According to the Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR) stipulates that "the expiration of three years without safety problems of new cosmetic ingredients, it can be included in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China 2021 released by the National Medical Products Administration."
Ingredients are one of the core dynamics driving the development of the entire cosmetic industry. Compared with the abundance of cosmetic raw materials owned by international companies, there is still a large gap in the research and development of cosmetic raw materials in China. According to public information, during the 10 years from 2009 to 2019, only four new cosmetic ingredients were approved for listing in China and few new cosmetic ingredients have been approved in China over the years.
In order to change this dilemma, the national "14th Five-Year Plan" in 2021 for the first time raised the cosmetics industry to a strategic level. The 14th Five-Year Plan clearly points out that we should cultivate high-end brands in the field of cosmetics and other FMCG products in China and promote the development of high-end cosmetics in China.
In the past two years, with the promulgation and implementation of the Provisions for Management of Cosmetic Registration and Notification Dossiers, Provisions for Management of New Cosmetic Ingredient Registration and Notification Dossiers, and Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China 2021, the regulations on the use of cosmetic ingredients and the transparent control of formulations have become more stringent. At the same time, the speed at which new ingredients are approved for filing has increased significantly. To date, a total of 21 new ingredients have been filed.
Although the number of new ingredients on record is increasing, it should not be overlooked that after the implementation of the Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR), the state has set stricter regulatory requirements for the safety management of new ingredients. New ingredients are clearly marked with a "monitoring period" in the filing information.
Whether internationally or in local China, the continued increase in new cosmetic ingredients has injected a "booster" into the development of the ingredients market and promoted technological innovation in the cosmetic industry as well as change and upgrading of the industry. With the continuous breakthroughs in cosmetic R&D technology, more new ingredients with broad commercial potential will come to market providing more possibilities for cosmetic diversification and segmentation of end-use applications.
It is worth noting that most of the companies that carry out cosmetic ingredients are dominated by international ingredients giants DSM, Dow or Chinese ingredients companies, and biopharmaceutical companies. CHAILEEDO observed that among the 37 cosmetic ingredients announced by the National Institute for Food and Drug Control in 2021, in addition to the brand company Shiseido, Estee Lauder has also applied for filings for cosmetic ingredients. The two companies have applied for "Methylaminomethylcyclohexylamine Carboxamide HCL" and "Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract" respectively.
Shiseido's application for cosmetic ingredients filing may indicate that the brand is focusing on raw materials and R&D directions in addition to cosmetics sales.
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