China Beauty Trends: Special Certificate is Threshold And New Efficacy is the Blue Ocean
- Chaileedo Press
- Oct 9, 2022
- 5 min read
Winning in Efficacy, Welcome the Future. On September 22, the 5th Conference on China’s Cosmetics Trends, hosted by CHAILEEDO, was held in Hangzhou with the theme of "Winning in Efficacy". During the conference, Lao Shuquan, China Director of Symrise Cosmetics Ingredients Department presented the keynote speech "Trends in Efficacy ingredients".
Good afternoon everyone. Thanks CHAILEEDO for inviting me!
A lot of changes have really happened over the years. My sharing today is not quite the same perspective. I will discuss that how we as an upstream supplier think about this issue. My speech today will involve four aspects: efficacy and regulations, efficacy development, layout of the efficacy of ingredients and future of the efficacy ingredients.
1. Efficacy and regulations
Some people will have questions about why efficacy and regulations can be associated together. A wide variety of efficacy has existed in the market. Many efficacy claims on the ingredients, there are claims from the efficacy itself, there are also claims from the means, dosage forms, and so on different perspectives.
Speaking of efficacy must speak of regulation. If we don’t speak of regulation, many efficacies will lose legal status. It will grow wild. And there will be irregularities added. Now the regulation controls it. The sellers can't talk nonsense.
As for regulation, China's regulations are now ahead of the world. In the future, other countries will make Chinese regulations their standard. The Chinese market can successfully break through the efficacy of the ingredients, China will certainly lead the world.
2. Breakthrough of efficacy ingredients
Cosmetics can not be separated from the formula. The formula has a framework of components and auxiliary components. The main cosmetic differentiation is "efficacy components", which mainly brings the soul of cosmetics. This is the core of most cosmetics we buy today.
When a factory buys a formula, it buys the formula design, mechanism, and principle of efficacy, which is from the view of cosmetic development. If we look at the ingredients themselves, cosmetics are a product of multidisciplinary crossover, and the development of a single ingredient involves a variety of upstream disciplines. In addition to formulation considerations and safety doses, there are many mechanisms and factors involved in the formulation of this ingredient.
Specifically.
It should have a certain transdermal mechanism.
Pathway target of biological mechanism should be clear and unambiguous.
Double-blind test and clinical statistical significance should be considered
3. Layout of the efficacy of ingredients
In the cosmetics industry no matter how many kinds of efficacy claims, they all are concluded into four dimensions.
Pigment regulation, whitening, spot removal, tanning ...... make changes to the skin tone and make the skin beautiful.
Since we are talking about efficacy, we have to go back to regulations. Now China is regulating cosmetic efficacy claims. The ingredients are also regulated. In the past, ingredients are not regulated so much by related authorities but they mainly regulate the product efficacy. Now both of them are regulated.
If you want to do new ingredients or new efficacy, here is to take into account the registration and filing of two different places. Now many people are confused about the meaning of record and filing. Many people record a product. Then something wrong and the government punish you. Then what is the meaning of the record? This is a typical failure to understand the difference between the record system and the filing system.
4. Future of the efficacy ingredients
The biggest difference is assessable and measurable in the future. to be built on the real and objective biological mechanism. In the future, in the biological mechanism, in the mechanism of action research and screening will certainly be innovative, more real, more focused on science.
As a German company, Symrise has been developing many ingredients for more than 100 years and will continue to do so now and in the future. We are currently doing a lot of continuous discussions on green, sustainable, marine ecology, environmental eco-friendliness, green, etc., all of which Symrise is going to think about.
Three final words for everyone.
Safety is the greatest efficacy. If you are a product manager, a brand manager, a formulator, a boss, or an R&D person, if you have doubts about the safety of something, believe your doubts. Do not let yourself off the hook on safety matters, it is responsible for yourself, responsible for the brand, and responsible for the consumer, and responsible for the entire cosmetic industry in China.
Special certificate efficacy is the threshold, and new efficacy is the blue ocean. If a brand does not have a special certificate category of its own, I think the requirements and height of the technology are not enough, to pull their cognition a little higher, special certificate is a big investment for, a long time, but this is a meaningful category, so special certificate is the threshold.
The last word, do not fight for the night, slow is fast since to do efficacy is certainly not so fast, my personal view is fast, out of what good efficacy, the world's martial arts only fast marketing culture, is not suitable for the pace of efficacy research and development, I hope that all the real R & D companies, think about this point, quietly to do things.
The content shared today is my personal views as an industry practitioner for many years, as a penny for my thoughts, to provoke debate and thinking, thank you.
Q&A: At present, many bloggers focused on traffic will share some products that are similar to the products made by big brands but it is cheaper. Consumers can check from some apps and big brands the efficacy of the difference between the ingredients. We know from the concentration of ingredients, the product process, and some technical differences, so how do you look at the phenomenon?
Lao Shuquan: It depends on what you are replacing. If it is replacing efficacy, it depends on the formula, the architecture, the product, and the raw material quality control level. Because we do not know what other brands' formulas and quality and ingredient quality are, it can not be said.
In addition, I think the claim has some problems. In a product used on the skin, there are other issues to consider such as poor tolerance, it is not easy to replace others. I think a good brand will not give you any major problems in terms of tolerance, safety, and gentleness, no matter how well they do in terms of efficacy. There are always some essential things that cannot be replaced, depending on what you want. Some things cannot be achieved by replacing them, which is the essence of the company's R&D strength, not so easy to replace.
Q&A: For imported ingredients, will Symrise promote the localization of ingredients as far as possible?
Lao Shuquan: Symrise is already doing it now and it must be done from the perspective of a stable and reliable supply chain. Our new factory built by Symrise in Nantong will be put into production in November this year. This is our localization strategy. Not only the production but also the more basic upstream R&D, etc. We will do all these localization strategies.
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